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who's done the forward facing plenum and then plumbed it through their existing hole? I dont want to have to change my washer bottle. I think Ive seen it done with a 90 degree bend straight off the throttle body to get down to and through the hole. sorry to hijack but it is kinda a relevant question lol

+1 for resetting the ECU mines a 33 but mine did the same sorta thing, cleaned afm, aac valve, tried heaps of stuff then unplugged the battery, stamped on the brakes for a bit and gave her power again and all fixed

Been a while since i posted anything about this I've since got an Apexi PFC boost control kit which has helped the boost a little, and yesturday put a bit of 3 inch pipe in my rubber pipe to stop it collapsing. Boost is still dropping 1psi or so in 4th, not till somewhere around 5-6000rpm so i might get a new pod filter and if that fails maybe drop the exhaust off from the cat to see if that helps. Otherwise i might just get the tune fixed up on 11psi or whatever it decides to run on the day If anyone has further advice then it would be much appreciated Cheers

Have you talked to RDP leon? I think brock said something about water meth, otherwise it was CO2 or something. But they can probably do water meth as well, worth an ask

there was a video on here a while back that showed the gear and what it does (dash pulled apart) so anyways, noones got any advice on a replacement part? just get a secondhand job?

so you just got a second hand actuator or do they sell them or the gears somewhere? someone told me they were doing stronger (steel?) ones on here a while back anyone have any better info?

Ive had a search and can only find old topics with questions about what the problem is and no real fixes Just after solutions to the gear clicking problem. Is there a stronger replacement gear available or is it just a case of ringing a wrecker and grabbing a spare off them? I know its been covered before but i cant find the answer im after Cheers Callan

back it off to 7psi even to where the ecu's range is. I'd reccomend getting somthing that u can tune/get tuned, even if u get an apexi afc/safc, power fc, nistune. something like that mine was weird before i got my power fc. Upped the boost to 12psi and it hit 4500 and just stuttered, threw spitfires at it with .8mm plugs, still did it. Backed the boost off to abot 8 and it went fine id say itll be ecu related.... but may just be ur coilpacks

have u tried resetting your ecu? and i think your base idle has to be set by taking one of the plugs off the aac valve then adjusting the screw otherwise it doesnt do a great deal. not sure why but yeah. try reseting your ecu and pulling the purple plug i think off your aac valve then adjusting the screw back when i bought my car it was dead stock, literally all it had was the spoiler, rear gtr pods and a stereo it used to idle around 750 or so rpm when i got it and didnt stall, put an atmo bov on it for a little bit and it stalled so i took it off and it kept stalling every so often when returning to idle. Cleaned aac valve, cleaned afm did a few other things and nothing helped reset ecu (unplugged battery and pressed brake down for 20 seconds or so) then car ran beautifully so yeh give it a go. As for the aac screw, if resetting the ecu doesnt help try what i said hope you get it sorted

yeh thats what im thinking but i dunno, Im pretty sure people have had success replacing the gear or the motor to fix the clicking

yeh its a stripped gear on the motor for one of the flaps I tried finding a bit more info on it cause it seems like whatever electronically controls these flaps thinks that it hasnt opened them and just keepts trying to open them more till some sort of cut out stops it? I dunno mine does it whenever i start the car now

you man on the cam angle sensor? it should just be the rubber seal/gasket and it'll probaby just be tight against this?

simple answer get a FMIC, there wont be much benifit from what you want to do

I thought the idea was they are nearly as free flowing when closed as when open due to the design (re-routing the exhaust gasses. not just closing a valve an making a smaller hole) btw, its illegal because its an adjustable exhaust valve. This is illegal because it means u can get away with a loud exhaust when cops arnt around. I dunno what the offical word is but thats the best i can do

as someone already said, they havent put cars u would typically expect to see on the cool wall on it. They have put some pretty cool cars on there and some pretty cool cars not on there, I'm pretty sure they put the Gallardo on the uncool wall? And Jeremy loved driving it from what i remember. Its not about typical coolness, its about coolness that has remained over time and what they think will continue to be cool for the next 10-20 years or so. I think thats more along the line Not saying i agree, I think the GTR is awesome but when broken down it may not be the outlandish 'cool' we all think it is. Remember this is a skyline forum, and the king of skylines is GTR even if the R35 isnt a skyline at heart.

not trying to be a smartass or anything but dont the RB sump hold more then 4L?

Cheers for the help Anyone else know anymore? I'm fairly happy that that is right but cause its the same thing that i was gathering from pauls FAQ and a few other posts just wanted to make sure it was a different function on the power fc

ahh i see so it basically serves a different purpose going from std ecu to power fc eg. Stock ecu - earth at 4500rpm Power FC - open solenoid at x amount of boost or something along those lines anyway.....

Cheers mate so is this pin on The ecu slightly different to what it does on the stock ecu? cause i thought it just earthed at 4500rpm?

Hi just after some help from anyone I just got the power fc boost control kit for my car.. its the right one the A001 or whatever.... Now i know the map/pressure sensor plugs straight into the power fc, but where do i plug the actual solinoid into? From what ive managed to find it seems as though on an RB25 you plug it into the stock wiring loom where the stock boost solinoid went, but i was under the impression that this provided constant power but no earth till the car hit 4500 rpm... Can anyone else help me out with this? car is 1994 R33 GTS-t With Power FC (standard) and hand controller. PM's welcome Cheers Callan

the stock actuator in the RB25 is set at 5psi if it was set at 7 you wouldnt get 5psi out of it (low boost) and I've had a boost controller on, wound all the way off and it hit 5 perfect

as long as its an R33 or R34 and isnt a GTR it will fit.....

Check the plug behind the washer bottle in the engine bay. Mine werent working and it turned out the plug wasnt contacting properly due to dirt and other stuff being in there. Otherwise it may be ur reverse sensor

guards rolled and maybe flared a little? i have the same problem atm on a 33 with similar tires except in 19" and im looking into getting my rolled and slightly flared. But wouldnt mind pictures as a reference to how it looks on a R33 i guess it depends what your offset likes, mine puts my tires pretty much in line with my guard so i need to probably flare them a touch but yours might not sit out as much

1995 are commonly refered to as series 1.5, have some parts of the series 2 and some parts of the series one yeh yours will probably be series 2 engine. Two easiest ways to tell would be looking at your TPS as already mentioned or looking at the back of your engine valley cover and if theres no igniter there then u will need series 2 coils. ah im tired so if i've stuffed up someone correct me haha