89CAL

lol nahhh but ill celebrate by having an open license in august yew

do the blade matte black maybe? or get a carbon fibre coating of some sort for it? keep us posted

Ahh digging this up, it was ages ago. What ended up happening. I got 2 letters from roadworthy inspectors, wrote a 2 page letter and printed out some photos and sent it to qld transport brisbane. Waited a month or so and then got word i should hae sent it into Mackay Traffic Dept (or whatever they are) anyways they forwarded it to them, get an email sayng they have recieved it etc.... at this point im thinking no way am i getting let off for this... about a week or so after that get an email with a letter attatched to it saying they have reviewed the details and taken into consideration the comments from the roadworthy inspectors and decided to withdraw the fine Happy as So bottom line is.... you can win lol Thanks for everyones advice and comments. Ive cleaned the oil up afte i took photos (back in january) and its still clean today. But ive got polished rocker covers in the works so will replace the gaskets and screws when im finished with them Thats my story anyway. Sorry it took so long to finish it off

Change to 89CAL please?

As if we dont already get enough cop troubles with a Front mount....... lol even if it was better, it looks stupid, it wouldnt touch my car whether it was drift pig or show car

should have to bridge two wires where the plug is for the auto... i assume the plug is there just not plugged into the auto (clearly) couldnt tell u which ones to bridge, and i wouldnt recomend experimenting.....

interested inthe idea uve put out there, silver with centre bit black or carbon fibre look even might set it off nicely post up photos if u end up doing it

awesome progress on this mate, been watching this closely as im wanting to run the same setup on pulp. Now if we get e85 here ill be using that probably just a couple of questions for you. Have u done a run on the highway to see what your economy is like there? Is it run on a pulp tune most of the time or do u have the datalogic to switch between tunes whenever u like? what boost controller are you running? Thanks Good luk with it mate, looks like itd be a beast to drive

Bump for a great tool. bought one not long ago for $880, at $350 its a bargain.

d-jetro allows for a map sensor instead of using an AFM. You will lose your VCT with the D-jetro but, think you can use a piggyback VCT control device to control the VCT someone might be able to confirm this like my power fc but all i keep hearing now is Vipec is the go.

waiting on reply with account details and im in

Pretty sure the R33 and R34 coolers can handle it. I think people just upgrade due to the lower cooling efficency at that boost level. R34 cooler should be alright for 12psi through a stock turbo

I use V-power, only really cause its cheaper, Have used ultimate before and noticed no difference what so ever. I think it just comes down to the state of the servo you go to. If the tanks are old/contaminated/just crap in generally then its gonna affect the fuel

I know a couple of people that were running atmo bov's and getting flutter at lower boost levels. ie half throttle when boost was only half built. on full boost they usually just vented normally. A bit of flutter at low rpm ive always seen as ok, when u start running 10+psi with no bov on stock turbo or something like that then yeh its probably not good. personally... im not all that into atmo bov's. last time i had one on my car my fuel economy halved and it idled like a bitch. I think it comes more down to the bov u put on it though, i had a turbosmart one on there that my car ran fine with and then i had a blitz on there that made my idle hunt really bad. use the stock BOV or a good blumback. Personally im looking at getting the turbosmart skyline dual port one day. thought it is a bit expensive

i think i know 2 people with 26 djetro's in rb20's. Same can be done for 25's just lose vct usually but URAS has a solution for that even but like he said, Vipec sonds like the way these days

vac leak? check all ur cooler pipes over again... what happened when it stopped hitting boost? any bangs, noises etc?

wrong section????

??

after the dash pad (upper part of dash) if it is available and able to be sent. Let me know a price includng estimated delivery and ill see if i can afford it at the moment lol Pics as well please Thanks

70-100 degrees temperature difference between the inlet and outlet sounds a bit much.... im guessing the idea is that you will hav the inlet pipe for example at the top of the cooler on the left hand side of the car, with the inlet chamber divided into two sections and then the outlet at the bottom of the cooler on the left hand side. Therefore the air has to pass through the entire cooler to get that cooling effect. Its got its pros and cons i guess, wouldnt see it being to much different then a standard FMIC but if the right hand chamber housed a seperate intake and outlet section then the heat might pass to the outlet a little from the intake side through the barrier in the middle. At the same time though i guess u gain from having the air pass through the whole intercooler before exiting. I'm sorry i cant really be to much help, but using logics i guess you could say it would be worth it? The cooler you got now is probably fine for the type of power your after but. The shared inlet side may just speed up spool times a little. Thats how i see it anyway.... I'm not claiming to be an expert just going from what ive seen

If he doesnt want it I may be interested but im in queensland lol

hey mate really like that bonnet, im not a fan of bomex kits but its shaping up alright by the looks of it just wondering how much the series 2 conversion cost and where u got the parts from? Thinking about doing one sometime soon PM me if you want Cheers

Paul, quick question... Might be off topic but might also help, lets just say its a semi valid question lol whenever mine see's knock its usually one quick spot of knock not constant, It does have constant knock sometimes but not anything to be concerned about, only low values. My question is how bad are these values of knock if there just one quick knock, and also are they more likely to be engine bay noise? For some help, mine only usually knocks when I have it on high boost (12psi) and revi it out and do a quick change, between 3rd and 4th is probably the worse. Im guessing its just one little point on the map that is relevant with those two gears due to the revs achieved through the specific ratios of 3rd and 4th... I'm trying to make it sound smart haha but anyway. Should this knock be a concern? Seeing about 60 knock is not uncommon in this situation but it isnt done frequently. sorry its a bit of a rambled question but any words of wisdom you want to throw up are much appreciated Cheers

yeah i know lol i thought it was dropping more then it actually was. 1PSI i can live with and probably will. I get slack to pull the exhaust off thats why i havent done it yet. I dont reall want to lose my cat or resonator so might just leave it how it is. Might still change the pod filter but, its seen better days

Another update... Did the cheap mod of putting a bit of steel pipe in the rubber intake hose which i think may have helped a little but boost drops to about 11psi in 4th. So im guessing cat or maybe pod filter now... Still open to advice Cheers