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mine has the stock bracket for the throttle cable that came off the stock plenum. Just have to bend it and play around with the throttle cable to get it to work. It sits at a bit of a funny angle but it still works. As for bleeding, the highest point of your cooling system should be your top tank of your radiator. I just bled mine by running it till the thermostat opened and topped up till full. It takes a while

no worries mate, just thought id ask. Dont really have the money for it atm anyway so prob a good thing lol

skyline01999: Off topic but are you interested in selling your front bar when u get the 400R bar?

This is mine, sorry the photos arnt the best and its a bit dirty but i just got it to this point today so give me a break lol

hmmm my cars never hit 95 i dont think, Got PFC and the normal i usually get is 82 or so. Thermostat opens at 76 i think anyway so anything above that will be fine. Will try what u suggest, sounds like a good way to go about it Cheers

what heat range did you use? maybe try going to a cooler plug or double check you put the right gap in them?

But isnt that only till the thermostat opens and lets coolant pass through? So when coolant reaches temp and opens thermostat it will be possible to bleed the system I relise this isnt the best way to do it but will work yeah? Have the plenum on just finishing a few things so just need to know if this way will work

isnt the top radiator tank the highest point in the cooling system now as opposed to the throttle body being the highest on the stock setup? Correct me if im wrong but with the front facing plenum the radiator fill point should be the highest point and will bleed from there once the thermostat is open?

Strangely enough it was my blow off valve I think it is either the seal for the screw in outlet (Which is different as i had a plumback one made up) not sealing on the o-ring OR I removed one of the internal springs (had 2) because i had the same bov previously and it wasnt going off so i removed one of the springs to get it to work and later found out the diaphram was broken So anyway, it was just the BOV, as for the other noise, not sure but it cant be anything major, think its just a loose bolt or something floating around Yeh i have an aftermarket clutch but i know th strange noises it makes lol and this was a new one All good. Thanks

In regards to the coolant bleed point.... Because the front facing plenum sits lower then where the radiator hose comes out of the plenum and re-joins the radiator... do you need to put the bleed point back in as the highest point would now be the radiator top tank and should bleed itself when running and filling with coolant Correct me if I'm wrong but thats what I thought

cant get to it from underneath with a swivel on an extension on a ratchet? im not sure where the bolt is lol so i cant be much help sorry

Hi everyone Have recently started hearing a strange noise from the front of my car. the best way i can think to describe it is that its kinda like running a wheel over those noise lines on the side of the highways (small bumps that make that noise to wake drivers up) BUT my car is only doing it at just above 3000rpm, about 40kmh at 25% or so throttle in 2nd and just below 3000rpm, about 60kmh at about 25% throttle in 3rd.... Not sure what it is so hoping someone here has had a similar issue. The noise only lasts about 2 seconds i guess at the most and doesnt happen if i give it full throttle or different throttle applications, seems to be limited to about 25% throttle or near enough. Lets just say light throttle anyway also if it has anything to do with it, i can sometimes hear over bumps another noise that sounds like I've left a hose clamp loose on a pipe so its just flapping around there making a very light metal on metal noise. Its not constant, sounds just like hose clamps tapping on intercooler pipes or something over bumpy road. Details on car: R33 GTST 1994 FMIC X-Force 3" turbo back exhaust K&N pod filter in cold air box Splitfire Coilpacks Power FC stock suspension stock turbo recently put a front strut brace on and replaced my bov with an aftermarket one (that is plumbed back) 100,000km service has been done, car has 113,000km's on it now. The 2nd noise described has been happening for a little while now and the 1st noise i described is more recent If anyone can help me that would be great Ive looked around and cant notice anything so im a bit stumped Thanks Callan

i thought there were two at the bottom but i could be wrong.... one of them is probably in a bitch of a spot lol.

awesome, all matches up now so i know wat I need Thanks for that mate

Just talked to a mate whos replaced all his hoses and joiners and he said TB = 2-3/4" turbo = 2.5" So theres 2 opinions for the turbo.... There a third that wants to jump in and settle it?

nooone? Im fairly sure for the throttle body I'll need a 2-3/4" Silicon hose but i cant get to the turbo to measure it. someone must have a stock one laying around that they can have a quick measure for me, even if it is only a rough measure

Hi Just want a quick answer cause I have been searching and couldnt really find much and want to order some silicon hoses now Just want to know what outside diameter the STOCK throttle body and STOCK turbo inlet is, or better yet what size silicon hose will slide on properly lol Thanks

I use the Motul 8100 Xcess 5w-40 in mine, Seems to go alright lol

do u mean it takes 2 mins before the BOV will vent? I have an RS copy BOV and mine had 2 springs inside it, i took the smaller spring out to loosen it up a bit, and gave it a quick squirt of oil. Mine is extra loose but cause its plumback so doesnt matter as much.... Loosen the adjusting screw and if its still excessivly fluttering then maybe take one of the springs out (if the genuine ones have 2 as well) and give the insides a little bit of oil

So i pulled my mirror apart today cause when i press the button to fold the mirror in the motor makes a noise but it doesnt fold in all the time, if i pull it a bit it will start to come... anyway... pulled it apart, opened the part where the gears are and checked it all out, pulled them out, put them bak in and it all looks sweet, but now its even worse, the motor still makes a noise but now it wont fold in at all and its really tight..... lol anyone got any advice? I must be missing something

you can adjust when it comes on and off with a power FC or other aftermarket computers if it supports it

wouldnt they run stronger internals to cope with the constant strains that a race going engine would have to put up with? Ive seen the R32 that skaife ran, its a wicked looking setup, would love to take it for a drive

what sort of aftermarket gauge is it? if its old or a dodgy brand it could just be poorly configurated, but they should read the same if they are both taken from the manifold Id suggest changing the aftermarket gauge from the FPR vac line as that should be used only to provide the FPR. If you have something tee-ed off that and the line fails then ur not gonna be getting the fuel you need and you may start leaning the AFR

yeh man, im not worried, got a mate with a 25 powered r32 with 300rwkw+ with the same plenum as mine. Any future plans of mine will be at the most jus touching that power, but probably a bit under. I Love genuine Greddys and pazmaman's, but Id probably have never got one. Was just lucky that this one kinda fell in my lap lol

Thanks for the tips guys. The plenum itself is pretty good,its not a cheap ebay one, its from autobarn. And i know its still not genuine but ive had it checked by more then one person and the facing for the runners to bolt onto the head is nice and flat and the injector holes are nice and flat for a good seal. Ive seen alot worse anyway.... And the only reason im putting it on is basically i got it plus cash for the rims that came off my car. I want to neaten up the engine bay, not make 700hp so im not to concerned about performance gains M3ld: Thanks for that pic mate thats pretty much exactally the setup I have ready with the stock TB adapter. Never though about geting the stock washer bottle altered but doesnt look to bad, Thanks mate wlspn: Dont think we have Bursons around here.... never heard of it so not quite sure, might try repco or somewhere, but i think im only after one gasket so if i have to get it from nissan i dont mind forking out a couple of bucks. PM-R33: Ive seen your setup around, its nice, Think steven has told me about your car once or twice to, Im quite a fan of it So thanks guys, I've done a fair bit of work on cars so im not to bad with everything. Dad's decided he's going to buy a tig welder so between the two of us i think we are just going to make the cooler pipes here, save having to get it somewhere to get it done and should save a couple of bucks to Any more tips, I'm more then happy to hear them Thanks again