89CAL

more specific? is it a clunk, a bang, a rattle....?

ah ok i thought as much after looking at the software but thought i might have missed something Thanks Paul

sweet how hard wouldit be to get a blue plate for my aftermarket ecu?

paul: what is the go with power fc tuning for atmo bov's? Im just intersted in wether its a setting/settings you change or is it just altering the fuel (and possibly igniton) maps to componsate for the air that isnt getting plumbed back into the system? Just curious Thanks

It isnt? I thought it still was in Queensland? lol well thats a load off my mind

or the car cranks, u slip off the bar and it damages radiator surrounding components having the car in a high gear with the handbrake on should be plenty fine. Not saying cranking the engine doesnt work, but id hate for someone to go 'yeah that'll make it way easier' and go and crank their breaker bar into the side of their engine bay

pics pics pic haha

lol nice I have my old AFX set in the drawer....... Feel a sudden urge to give it another go haha

another thing about vent to atmo BOV's are they destroy you fuel economy (at least on a stock computer anyway) put one on and expect your economy to half or thereabouts.... Think ive heard of a few people that have never had problems but my R33 and a mates 32 both suffered madly from an atmo bov.

Yeahhhh its pretty big lol and its got a hell of a whistle to it. Imagine the looks youd get hitting full boost in that down your local street haha

$20, 2 buttons and a roll of sticky tape? im negotiable

that perfornace club website just comes up as some weird search engine thing.....

never thought of that when i did mine lol but yeh i pretty much did mine striaght after a drive, just pull the hose out and aim it down the side of the tank. Itll only drain out probably a litre max.

you sure about the quarter? im not saying your wrong but i thought they were slightly different as the series 2 lights are bit more square?

agree with above. Old man used to have a 5 speed VS ute and the stick was sloppy, replaced the plastic bush and was fine. Lucky you has a cheap fix there, plastic bush is only about 2 buks i think lol

Sorry for late relpy. Found someone who has one, working on a deal there but for those interested, the part is this one (well99% sure it is): Actuator

Hi Need one of these actuators, Hopefully one that doesnt make this clicking noise. There are a couple of motors so if someone can put up a good description it would be much appreciated If you think youve got one then a pic and/or part number (if any on it) should be helpful enough PM me Thanks Callan

I think your mistake was using the word flatline..... imagine your revs in a graph.... its going to gradually go up to a point where ur limiter is then remain flat (if its a flatline) I think what your talking about is ur car hitting a safety or limp mode at redline which is causing the car to die. Get an ECU, or start changing to second.... even a standard skyline can handle second gear burnouts. Dont blame the people on here for being smartasses if your going to give a vague description then call everyone a loser for not giving you the response you wanted

Personally... I think you shouldnt be trying to pull 300rwkw out of your car, JUST so you can beat your mate with a Holden with an advertised power level that is about the same..... If you want to do up your car for your own satisfaction then go for it, just dont do it up to impress other people. And like others have said, im guessing your talking about the advertised kw output (as per the badge on the back of clubsports etc) which in that case first of all you will beat it with way less then 300rwkw. And that advertised power is at the fly not at the wheels. Someone was even telling me that you can basically keep the number that is advertised on the back but put HP after it instead of KW and that will be closer to the rear wheel power output But please if your gonna do up your car. Do it how you want it, not how it needs to be to beat your mates expensive commodore

I may be missing something but how does lowering your car decrease performance to a state where it is dangerous? I mean fair enough if its dragging along the ground but an extra couple of centimeters lower? really?

hey mate. Was gonna just put money in your account for a set now but thought id make sure you can still do me another set? PM me and ill put the money in toorrow if thats fine? or tonight if you reply Thanks

Save/buy and aftermarket clutch ASAP cause when they start slipping they usually go downhill fairl quick. I drove mine around with a slipping clutch for maybe 3 weeks max and by the end of it i was having trouble geting the clutch to grip in any gear to well lol. Plan ahead so when it does give up for good, your ready to replace it and dont have to organise it all after it happens

do we have any links to posts that give a detailed descripiton of fixing the problem? Ive heard jus getting the whole motor from a wrecked skyline (just the little motor that operates the gear, with the gear attatched) will fix it but i there any other way like just replacing the cog? Mines been doing it for a while, i need a new dash so can do both at once if i can get a correct fix Nissan want between 250 and 400 for the motor (couldnt tell which one it was from the fast diagrams) its a bit to much just for that Anyway if theres a post about fixing it then someone please link it i here, ive searched a couple of times but never really found much more then whats already been said here

when my fuel light comes on i have about 10L left in the tank. It doesnt usally come on till needle is just on or below the empty mark. I never drive till my tank is that empty, usually fill with at least a 1/4 of a tank left. As for the constant gauge changing, Id say it woul be cause youve just gone around a corner (think mine sufferes worse on left hand corners) and the fuel gauge is just moving cause the fuel ha all gone to one side. Nothing really to worry about, should go bak to normal when stopped on level ground or driving in straight line As for the quick drop between half and quarter of a tank. Mine does the same. I can sometimes get 100km on mine before the needle even moves. After that it just starts dropping, once it gets to half it drops even faster. Maybe just something to do with the tank design? but its pretty normal in skylines i think

Theres two lines that enter the stock boost solonoid. I think one is from the piping and the other is from the bov return line? something like that. Make sure u block off the one from the bov return line. Me being a newbie at the tie thought id just T the one from the bov return line into my line from the piping and it just kept spiking. Seems silly now yes i know but bak then i thought it must have been there for a reason lol Im guessing thats part of your problem you dont want it running that much boost? Just check all your lins make sure there not leaking or anything. Its a little odd for me that you picked up an extra 2psi when you put an exhaust on because mine didnt? I dont know if its changed cause of somethin different about your car but Check your actuator maybe just to be safe. As for the missfire, Id agree its probably a spark problem, or maybe ECU. Mine would just hit stutter and be a real pain at anything above about 8psi on stock ecu. Putting the power FC in was one of the best things i did.