89CAL

Wow 3 months since this started lol...... Good to see there finally on the way

pretty sure it just needs to be able to gather air upon closed throttle but im not sure on the issues with AFM etc My car has the AAC set up as standard (Plumbed in before throttle body) so it works fine, not sure how well the setup with the filter works but wouldnt really cost much to try it out i guess? Just set it up with aac valve open to atmosphere

ive seen the aac mounted to an aftermarket plenum with a little filter clamped onto the fitting that would normally run to the pickup before your throttle body

you sure it cant just be resprayed? maybe it is able to be filled with some hi fill primer, sanded and re-sprayed

Just a thought, but in the mean-time try reseting your ecu.... Its an easy thing to do and sometimes helps

On a 33? Pull off the surround and then it just unscrews from the back? if your not sure how to unscrew the surround then its just 2 screws down the bottom behind ur ash tray (to take the gearshift surround off) then theres 2 screws exposed holding the surround in then the rest of it clips out Be careful to unplug everything when ur pulling it out and when u put it together make sure you plug the tube and the plug in for the air temp sensor just to the left of the steering wheel or your aircon is going to be hot on anything but 18 degrees

I have my blow off valve before intercooler plumbed back into my intake pipe (Might be able to see in my sig?) and my car runs no different to before it was like this Maybe theres a vac line or somethng loose? because really nothing should have changed except for maybe some slight amount of lag (an additional 500rpm at the most) depending on your IC setup and piping

would be there for cruise control im guessing....

ummm think the crossover pipe to throttle body is 2.5" to 2.75" others should be 2.5" ???

Im just gonna sort it out then hes gonna pay me back have had another reply but there out of a non M-spec front bar so just trying to work out if they will fit in the M-spec front bumper so if they dont and yours are M-spec ones then should be good. So will see how it works out lol So yeah wait and see at the moment, just let me know what your lights are, PM me if u want

Hey Just have a quick question about the indicator assembly in the series 1 front bumper Basically just want to know if theres any difference between the M-spec and standard front bumper indicator lights? As in will non M-spec indicators fit inside an M-spec front bar They look the same but just wanted to make sure Thanks Callan

Hi all Chasing for a friend really R33 Series 1 indicators out of the front bar PM me with what you got Im in Mackay Queensland if your nearby Cheers Callan

Dont have any indicators (out of the front bumper) ? For S1 R33

thanks mate, i need a fitting like that... if u can see in my sig photo, the rocker cover fitting on my rocker cover points upwards as they do standard and it makes my setup look a bit average. Dont suppose anyone has one they want to sell to me?

what i thought tomcio was talking about was something newer cars have which is as the car slows down the power steering gets lighter but when ur at highway speed the steering is a bit heavier so the steering isnt as twitchy etc But yeah Im pretty sure skylines dont have that? Anyways cant be hicas computer, or was hicas an option on GTS's? not sure about this

Skylines have that? I thought that was a more modern feature..... makes sense but didnt know R32's had that....

hey mate, glad to hear you got it.. but random question... is that rocker cover breather on the right a standard RB25 NEO fitting because i need something like that lol....

I think if your car is cold, you can take your radiator cap off and start the car then wait till the thermostat opens and see if theres water flowing through the radiator I think thats the easiest way to do it

Group buy on Plane tickets to UK and Knee-capping weapons (e.g. crow-bar)?

it fits but there is a gap above the headlights and will be a gap above the grille as well.... Currently how my car is sitting till the series 2 bonnet is painted ready to go on

oh well this is just from my experience the last week rebuilding turbos, Mind you they are larger turbos for diesel engines but anyway shaft/rotor (exhaust wheel + shaft) assembly is cleaned then thrust washers and compressor wheel are installed to the shaft and nut torqued. Shaft is then checked for run-out and the wheel, washers and nut can be rotated/changed whatever to get the minimum run out (the aim for these turbos was 0.02" max), after that the assembly is balanced taking weight off where required (balancing machine is needed for this, very handy) then all compnents marked in there position and removed, cleaned and assembled in the turbo facing the way they were assembled to get the good test results Basically ensures everything is as straight and balanced as possible Im sure you could get away with throwing it all back together however, but thats how we did it to get it to near new/new condition. So maybe you get lucky and it works, or maybe it doesnt.... its really one of those your own risk things if u want to do it without the right gear As i said but this was for a different application to skyline etc so it may be completely different to the procedures used for garett, nissan etc

Def take it somewhere to get it balanced..... Ive done turbos as part of my apprenticeship last week and its suprising how nice and smooth it looks rotating then the balancing machine says its a fair bit out. as said they do spin very very fast so need to be pretty perfect

on the turbo models that hose in the first and second photo goes to the bov vac port..... ummm not sure what it would go to on yours. Maybe the non turbos are different and run the other feed to the carbon canister from there instead of where they get the vac source from on the turbo models

that way does sound more fun...... but more expensive as well lol

Hell no