89CAL

One more bump for good luck

GTRFTW, Best... Number Plates..... EVER Lol they are pretty cool

my exedy cushioned button shuddered a bit on takeoff sometimes, it sounds a bit like quick repetative knocking. Im not sure what the race clutches are like but Best thing to do if you can is to get a video of it and post it up, so we can all hear whats going on

If anyone has swapped there Standard R34 RB25DET NEO fittings over for some of these, can you PM me if you still have the stock fittings? Im after some Thanks

probably your throwout bearing? did u use the new one?

Have had it over the pit today, and had someone else look and theyve confirmed its outer CV joints. What I'll do is when I get them Recon'ed ill let everyone know how much it cost and post up some details. Maybe I'll even do a DIY or something with photos They will probably come out of the car at the end of the month as I'm quite busy in the mean time and need a car. But I will post up my results and as much information as I can so hopefully I can help someone else out

Cheers mate, if recon is to much thats probably where ill be getting them from

Thanks mate. Im hoping that they will have CV's that will fit, might not be specifically be for an R33 but are the same design. Ill just have to make sure that they will handle the power of a Skyline, not a Charade lol

I've ordered an iPhone 4 but only cause I just got insurance money for my last phone and I like the browsing on the iPhones as well as the way the UI is. Ive had a play with one and they are faster then the 3GS and have a few nice new features like the camera, screen etc. But overall there pretty similar to the 3GS. As for signal loss... Well i cant really say it was a great test but I had a play with it with my finger over the 'special area' and tried browsing etc and it seemed fine. But hey, maybe in the real world its not as clear cut Anyway, my iPhone 4 is costing me $30 with my insurance so cant complain with a $30 iPhone 4

Thanks mate I'm not sure if it makes a different but someone has told me they think the balls have worn. That idea isnt one I'd thought of lol but I'm gonna see how much it is for a recon of the CV's, hopefully shouldnt be more then around $200 or so, I'm going to pull them out myself. Ill post up all the info I can when I get prices on mine or get them done but so far: - No CV/Driveshaft places seem to be able to get an R33 rear CV Joint or CV Shaft, have found where they will do R32 ones. - Nissan may be able to help, I havent bothered to ring them yet. Think the price there will be a bit steep - 2nd hand from a wreckers is an option, I got quoted $125 for mine (5 bolt pattern to the diff) or i think it was $85 for the 3 bolt pattern ones - Recon... Well I'll let you know when I find out prices I did see some CV shafts on Ebay but they didnt look right, im not sure if they had more stock and just werent showing it all or what was going on. I also havent rung around places in Bigger cities, maybe in Sydney where a driveshaft place has more to do with skylines they might be able to help Ill let you know what else i find out

it could be HICAS, have a search for the HICAS diagnostic mode on here or search in google theres a good video showing how to do it and what all the faults are pretty sure. If you just want to ditch it then look into a HICAS lock bar Just as a word of warning, dont EXPECT to gain what others have gained with certain mods. You may very well do it but from experience each skyline is different. Mine only pulled 136rwkw or something like that with pod, full 3" exhaust, intercooler, splitfire coilpacks and 8 or 9psi. My car hated any more boost then that and would cut the engine at about 4500rpm adding a Power FC (Aftermarket ECU) upped my power big time. By all means do the mods, and you may get the power you want. But just trying to make sure you dont get your hopes up and be as disapointed as i was when my skyline had its first dyno run

i just remember seeing a friends turbo out of his 32 when it got high flowed and i thought it said nissan motor co or whatever they say on the housing

R33 has nissan on it, I thought 32's did as well? lol

I got lucky, one of my friends had just bought one then decided to sell his car before he put it on Brand new AFM with plug for me for 200 buks

Just Jap, Nengun, On here? one of the business traders will do them for sure

Noone?

anyone? Standard R34 (RB25 NEO) exhaust cam cover side rocker cover breather fitting?

Sorry guys, SAU stuffed up last night and didnt put my post up lol First up, Car is: R33 GTSt (1994) Anyways, basically My Rear CV's are starting to click and im trying to find some replacements. Ive been asking around and cant seem to find anyone that can get me a new CV shaft or anything for. Has anyone found somewhere to get replacement CV joints or shafts, either new or recon. At the moment im thinking im going to have to get mine reconditioned or buy second hand ones and either use them or get them reconditioned and swap them out anyone else got any other ideas where i could find some?

thats a bit weird, my boss kit went on and my indicators worked as normal for the person who asked the difference between the hicas and non hicas boss kits: The non Hicas boss kit has a contact ring on the back of it to contact the prongs for the horn so you can turn the wheel and still maintain contact to activate the horn. The Hicas boss kit has holes in the back instead. The Works Bell one i got had several different size holes on the back. One is for a plug that has a single wire out of it to go to your horn. The other hole is for the locating prong for your hicas ring (its a small kinda rectangular shaped thing that sticks out about 2 or 3cms). If your Hicas boss kit does not make contact with this locating prong all the time to turn the hicas ring every time you make an adjustment to the wheel then you will have problems at highway speed, it may not do it around town Mine came up with the Hicas warning light at highway speed after 15 mins driving I couldnt feel a real problem with the handling of the car but

if your AFM is stuffed it will usually run pretty crappy but if the connections in the plug are a little dodgy it might run fine for a bit then stuff up. easy way to check your cooler pipes are all good is to get some aerostart or something in a spray can that is flamable and spray it around intercooler pipes, if engine revs up then u have a leak in your cooler pipes. This is usually done at idle

I'm pretty sure that the NEO engines have a rocker cover fitting on the exhaust side that has 2 fittings for hoses at 90 degrees to each other instead of the non NEO 25 (eg. R33 RB25DET) which has a fitting that points straight up in the air and towards the front. Im looking for a NEO fitting that from what Ive seen will be able to put into my rocker covers with one hose fitting facing the front of the car and the other facing the passanger side. As you can see from my pic, my rocker fitting looks a bit stupid with the hose setup i have pointing straight up in the air PM me if you can help Thanks Callan

That looks really good. Is there no joins between sheets of vinyl (were you able to do a whole panel with just one sheet of vinyl)? I thought with this idea there would be visible joins but I have to say it looks really good

Mass Air Flow (MAF) = Air Flow Meter (AFM) there pretty much two names for the same thing check the plug on that etc. Id probably also put your valley cover back on and put the ignitor (that unit at the back) back onto it, its not something you want to leave hanging, its got alot to do with your spark and should be mounted as far as I'm concerned

NPC twin plate is about $1400 I think. Choice of twin plate button or twin plate cushioned button I have an NPC single plate 10" sprung button in mine and its amazing. Nearly as soft as stock clutch and it grabs really hard and also isnt to hard to drivein traffic. Give them a call, the guy that I talked to was very helpful

Ok obvious things first Light bulbs? Yes i know youve probably checked them but still Fuses? Probably not but im not sure how the lights are wired in 34s so would pay to check anyway Earth-wiring? Look at the wires that come off the headlights and follow them as far as you can. Most of the time if someones done a dodgy wiring job its pretty obvious or can be made pretty obvious by peeling off electrical tape wrapped around wires etc.