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89CAL

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Everything posted by 89CAL

  1. I know autobarn used to have one for an R33 so I guess you could try them. Mind you it was very expensive and I didn't really like the look of it that much. A custom made one would be great so let me know if you find one please lol
  2. I'm in. R33 gtst. Need to replace my clutch line Looking forward to a smoother group buy lol
  3. I think twin Bi-Xenon's would pose an issue with cost. I'm interested but will wait to get a look at the finished product. Has the design of the R32 projector head lights been looked at for some design ideas? I know its outdated but I think for a standard head light back then, it looks pretty good
  4. iPhone 4 is nice. Got mine today after 3 weeks of waiting. Step up from my cheap phone thats for sure, wonder how long before the novelty wears off lol
  5. I have done this before with something from iTunes, its not the easiest way to get around it but it does work....
  6. Think he means power steering resivour cover?
  7. download in itunes ---> Burn to CD in itunes ---> Use NERO etc to rip CD to computer I've heard this works *Shifty eyes*
  8. get something like a varex (from x-force) if you want the best of both worlds. Performance when you want, quiet when you want
  9. Sounds good, will be interested after seeing some photos Sound like they will be good but. Just have to see if they will suit my car
  10. I really didnt think there would be a difference between the cluster hey, but if you know someone that you can do a swap with then give it a go.
  11. did you use the speed sender out of your DE box in the DET box? I would have thought they were the same but it seems like the sender is the only thing that could be the problem if all youve changed is the gearbox and nothing on the instrument cluster is broken
  12. oh lol well find somewhere that deals Narva stuff, they should be able to help you out. I think the Narva are just as good but a bit cheaper
  13. just as a side note.... pulling that terminal off in the engine bay could result in shorting to chassis. You should always disconnect the negative terminal from the battery so that you remove the 'ground' circuit and you cant have wires still shorting to the chassis other then that good write up, hopefully I'll never have to do it but its good to know for when it happens lol
  14. well i got them through my dads work for relatively cheap, but you should be able to get them from autobarn. They stock them, otherwise you can get the power2nights there, i think there about 60 buks
  15. Hmmm I dunno, my diff is fine and its a 1994 R33 GTST, it still locks both fine.... Perhaps its worth taking out and shimming or at least inspecting Barring a massive failure like Driveshaft/CV which I'm pretty sure youd notice lol, my only other guess is that the diff has become lazy and you might just be able to re-shim and fix it.... Simple things first but, check the fluid. Mine was a bit funnny when i first got it and i found the fluid was low. Changed it to sme new stuff and it was fine after that If you want to change it, I use Castrol SAF-XA (or something like that) its relatively cheap and does the job. Id recomend trying that first if it is the diff stuffing up
  16. u sure they werent pretty colourful blue ones, in that case they will be nice and blue but not very bright, what exact lights were they? I got Narva Blue Power (I think they are) and there pretty good, the Phillips Power2Night are also alright but a bit pricey
  17. Have u changed the diff oil recently It will really come down to road surface. Theoretically if the road has the same grip across the surface it shouldnt make much of a difference. It will only start making a difference if one side has a lack of grip then you will spin that side and it wont put power down I imagine on normal road conditions it shouldnt really make that much of a difference. If your saying it is really noticable you may have another proble. Sure your clutch isnt slipping? even if its only slipping slightly
  18. It depends on each individual gauge and whats happened over its life etc. As said they will all be manufactured the same but there will be certain allowances. From what i understand you can do something internally to adjust the tacho and (maybe) speedo as well. I thought i saw a thread about it on here somewhere anyway?
  19. yeh the only difference is beteween standard bar and m spec bar. Between series 1 and 1.5 there is no difference in either bar
  20. pull it apart and have a look? pretty sure the SSQV are fairly simple, most BOV's are. Just make sure you remember where everything goes and oil it before re-assembling. It shouldnt be hitting anything if you just got it unless something has come dislodged inside
  21. haha nice If you get the works bell one, you'll see what i mean... Theres one way that it will fit on loosely and another way it will fit on quite snuggly (If its like the 33 boss kit anyway) just make sure you order the one with HICAS lol but yeh make sure you put it on right and its engaging the HICAS hub as soon as you turn the wheel
  22. ah well if you do any fittings for someone with an R34 RB25DET NEO, you know where to find me
  23. You have M-Spec and the OP just has the normal front bar My S1 Front bar had working driving lights (which from what I've heard is pretty rare) so they were in the way thats why my cooler was angled lol but anyway Series 2 front bar is much nicer to put a FMIC behind, Requires a fair bit of trimming but only of parts that you cant see
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