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As for the R&D not coming in. I have found that if your the second driver, you wont get the upgraded parts straight away, but at the moment I have about 5 or 6 R&D upgrades after 11 races done for the first season As for before where I was talking about it being to easy. Ive discovered what I think is a slight glitch with the difficulty setup menu. I'll try and explain There are the 4 (Pretty sure theres 4) preset difficulty settings and then you can adjust from there and make a custom setting I played around with it the other day and all of a sudden the game was way harder..... It turns out that if you change the preset setting to say hard, then change one or more of the assit/pit/gearbox settings, the difficulty setting goes to custom, but the AI remains at whatever your preset difficulty setting was, in this case hard I think it should be set-up with a preset difficulty setting, then AI difficulty below it. So when it goes to custom you can always see what difficulty your at Its not a big thing but It took me a while to work it out.

agreed I bought mine second hand, im not sure but I think its a cusco one and it weighs next to nothing. Also felt a difference with the strut brace on. Looking into getting a rear strut brace sometime soon but things keep jumping ahead of it on the list of things to do lol.

Got mine as well I'm pretty sure it replaces the block, if not I'm gonna try my best to make it replace the block Thanks again Phil. Must be hecktic at your place trying to organise all these group buys

Pretty sure you will need - Bumer, Bonnet, Guards? from a GTR maybe reo as well not cheap

I only shortened mine cause i think they look stupid standard lol... for a sports car they are way to long

Im pretty sure there double synchros up to 3rd, or maybe all the way Reverse shouldnt have a synchro I assume cause your never changing to reverse at high revs/from another gear

I 'short shifted' my stock shifter. Its a bit of a pain if you want to do it the way i did it or theres an easy way. The stock shifter has a shaft coming out of the gearbox, then the actual shifter where your gear knob bolts on is seperated from this by a section of rubber. What I did was cut the outer shifter part near where the tapered section starts at the top and near the bottom of this part as well, threw away the bit in the middle then welded the two together. Then put some sikaflex down inside the outer part and stuck it back over the shaft that comes out of the box (all this was done out of the car of course lol) the other way Ive heard of is just to pull the outer part of the shifter off, remove all the rubber and just put a thread on the inner shaft so you can just put the gear knob straight on that. I havent done this, just had someone told me thats how they were gonna do it. Not sure if it needs machining or is the right size already but yeah As for short shifters wrecking your gearbox..... If you cant drive with a short shifter it might but other then that it will be fine

Yes make sure you get actual Flywheel bolts not just some random bolts that fit as they may be to weak I guess RB30/25/20/26 flywheel bolts would all be the same (well manual ones anyway) so I would try holden first then Nissan as suggested above. Otherwise you might be able to get some from a wrecked R33

Mate I would have a go at re-writing that But I know that when they strap a car down, how hard it is strapped will have an effect on the power reading but i think its fairly marginal and would eliminate most of the "weight issue' that your talking about anyway Your not talking about power to weight ratio? I cant quite understand half of your post.....

well when i first played it I think traction control was on medium and I just spun every corner... Its a bit annoying there doesnt seem to be any sensitivity on the X button despite the control being capable of it. Cant hold Revs off the line on race starts just goes to full revs. Would be great with a little simulator and steering wheel with pedals but oh well lol. Cant be bothered spending that kind of money

Its not to bad. Once I'm no longer used to F1 Challange It'll be better but I must say its awfully easy..... Driving for lotus and I'm leading the championship after 4 races. All the assits are off except for traction control, to hard to throttle the car with the X button lol But yeah qualified 1st in the wet at Shanghi tonight by nearly 2 seconds over everyone else, wet weather driving not that hard apparently

Ahhh finally I have my copy lol The shirt I got with it is actually quite good. Keen to get into some racing but

you should pull off the steering wheel and check how the boss kit is interacting with the HICAS hub behind wheel/boss kit. if the light is coming on straight away everytime you start the car then it might be another issue, most of the time if its the boss kit it wont come on till a couple of minutes of driving above 80kmh, or from what I understand anyway This is what happened to me, no HICAS light then as soon as I went over 80 for a while it would come on and stay on. My Boss kit was on wrong and wasnt Turning my HICAS HUB correctly, there was a couple of degrees of slop in it Pull your wheel off and have a look, then try the diagnostics. If your not gonna track the car then you may as well keep it on your car

Anyone having issues with the bugs people have found so far? Unoffical Glitches and Bugs List (Codemasters Forum)

Theres no JB here, they all went on shelf on thursday, I pre-ordered mine from JB, waiting for it to be sent here wishing I'd just waited and bought it off the shelf.... even if it is $110 everywhere here

I just did my rear CV's and they were clicking on takeoff but that was it (when under high load) The way I checked if they were my CV's was to hold the handbrake fully on and put the car in 1st and slip the clutch to load up the drivetrain. When doing this my CV's would click, was pretty noticable and if you can get someone else to have a look under the car while your doing this they might be able to confirm where the noise is coming from Sounds more like a wheel bearing or diff issue but The CV's are pretty tough, from what I've found on here they dont fail often, not many people seem to have troubles. Mine had a bit of wear but were still fine. I wouldnt think the noises your describing would be CV's but have a look anway If it is CV's I would do both, save pulling the car off the road twice to replace them one at a time

how much power are you going to be pushing? that will make all the difference when choosing a clutch The exedy heavy duty cushion button is a good clutch IMO for moderate power. I have an NPC Button now which is great but probably a bit annoying for everyday driving

how did u manage that lol? mines on the way from JB HI FI

Sorry my post was pretty crap lol, What I was trying to say is pretty much what Phil said

I think.... but i could be wrong, that they will only direct fit on series 1 gtst

I sent my $49 over your way Phil. Tried PM-ing you back but my iPhone doesn't like that lol. You should have my address. PM me if you don't and I'll go on a computer

Sixaxis. It's pretty cool but for the most part not worth using lol. I use it in gta 4 but only for reloading my gun (have it set so if you flick the controller towered you it reloads) Other then that I haven't really found a reason why you need it. The playstation controls are already really good to use

are you sure the sensitivity isnt set higher or lower then your used to in COD? My friend plays with it on a really sensitive setting and i find it impossible to use nearly and I use around medium setting and its fine for me

The neo engines have a dual fitting with the 2 outlets at 90 degrees to each other along the horizontal The R33 25's have the dual fitting that points upwards and to the front. This is why I want to swap, see my sig photo, it looks pretty crap pointing up and having to run a pipe at a big 180 to go back down to my intake pipe lol

Yeah at least now I KNOW when my car had a new belt put in lol Yeah mine must have been done in Japan as I'm the first AUS owner so maybe thats what Nissan do when they get the genuine timing belt (it more then likely would come with the sticker)