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Yeah that's fine was just correcting the previous post. That's a bit strange. The sensor should bring up a warning (that red light) when excessive temperature is noted in the cat. Sometimes this happens with a stock exhaust when the car dumps fuel into the engine at higher then normal boost levels. But since yours has a 3 inch exhaust I wouldn't think so Sounds more like a wiring problem, or perhaps the sensor is old and as the wires heat up it's creating to much resistance, but again that doesn't explain why it's only doing it when you turn the air con on. Unless your z32 ecu is throwing to much fuel in when the air con is on, perhaps putting it into a rich and retard mode, I'm not sure. Does the car drive ok when the ac is on and it does this? Maybe just check the sensor and wiring under the car just as a start. But it doesn't sound like anything to be concerned about

I wouldn't recommend doing that...... But it's your license

I think the airbag boss kit kust loops the wire for the airbag so a light doesn't come up on your dash or something?

Hicas Boss Kit I have this boss kit. and my HICAS works fine. Just have to make sure you put it on right. It will fit on a few ways but only one way will engage the HICAS properly. On second thoughts looking at your pic but, It looks like you might have a S2, In which case you might need one designed for an air bag fitted car, but it should be on the Just Jap site anyway.

That is unreal lol. I had a lucky bit where I shot someone, was reloading and someone else popped out, threw a flashbang, hid, finished reloading then managed to kill another 2 people that had been hit with the flash lol but nothing like the video, I could never manage that

Another annoying thing about the crowd... Admitedly it is only minor, is the sound I noticed this when doing the beginner rally (special) challange. If you go to reverse view, the sound of the crowd cheering restarts, so if you keep going between forward and reverse views quickly, you can see what I mean. I know its only a really minor detail... but I'm sure it wouldnt have been hard to just have a constant sound of the crowd and just adjust the output of the sound to sound like it was coming from a different angle. Not just restart the sound byte every time you change view. As said. The game is good, but it is lacking in some very silly and annoying ways. Im starting to get bored of the game, but multiplayer might save it for me.

Alright I sorted it Got a high intensity blue LED and put it in the holder for the light in both the switches. Then wired a 620ohm resistor into the light illumination wire. Ill see if I can do a rough drawing Hazard Demister - - - - - - - + - - - + - - Thats looking at the plugs coming from the car side. The + symbols are the wires in question. I think the demister may be the other way around (Bottom right wire not bottom left) but cant remember and my dash is back together anyway, it should be the blue with red striped wire. Theres one in each of the plugs, thats the wire for the illumination Hopefully that helps someone BTW: sorry about the formatting of the 'drawing', cant remember how to get it to space normally lol

power fc uses the check engine light to indicate knock by flashing it several times in a short space of time if its the cat convertor overheat warning then there may be a wiring issue or maybe it was just unplugged when something was done/replaced

yeah just worked out 600ohm, sweet. Will give that a go, might post up some photos when I'm done if I remember Thanks mate

peak forward current = Maximum 160mA forward current = Maximum 20mA Cant work out if that means I should put max of 20mA or 160mA.... its only a little baby LED. 20mA is probably plenty

yeah figured as much. I guess the wedge type ones have a resistor built into the base. Ill have to wire the resistor into the wire before it plugs into the switch because there is no room inside the switch where the light sits to put a resistor, the legs come straight out of the LED and go basically 180 degrees then straight then 180degrees again, over a very small space Thats fine but, 220ohm resitor will do the job you say? I could work it out, but if your sure thats what it is, it saves me some maths Thanks

Hi I was pretty sure there was a post on here somewhere about doing this, but I cant seem to find it Basically Ive already got the blue dash and air con lights, my hazard switch light has never worked, so thought I would try and fix that and while im at it make everything blue Ive bought 2 x 3mm Blue LED's which had a max volatage of 4v from what I can see. But I thought stuff it there only 50c each I'll give it a go and hopefully it will only draw a few volts. But its blown the light by the looks of it as soon as I've tried it lol. Basically just wanted to see if anyone else has done this? I'm guessing unless I can find a 3mm 12V Blue LED im going to have to get a resistor and put it in the wiring before the switch as its the only real place where there is room for it. The only reason I'm posting this here is because I'm sure I've seen it in a thread somewhere where someone had done this with a 12v 3mm bulb, but it could have just been a normal globe not an LED any help would be appreciated Thanks Callan

Wasnt it the same in the last 2? each cars traction control etc was part of that individual cars setup

To remove the rotors you just need to take your wheels off and remove the calipers from the rotor at the very least They will probably be tight if they've been on the car for ages. You may need to give them a tap around the centre (dont hit the studs or the contact surface of the disc if you plan on using them again) should be pretty easy

+1 for ignition lead between spark plug and coil. Thats how I checked mine and it worked well and now that you mention it, it might be the TPS plug I was thinking of lol I dunno but like i said its on here somewhere, have a search

skating? like drifting....? A heavily shimmed diff should only be used for competition drift not street drift. If your going to drift in the street, and I dont suggest you do.... Just get a standard R33 GTST diff and use it along with the axles.....

On the plus side You can play your own music while racing... Its only a little thing but I think its great My RX7 with 300hp sounds like its supercharged but, not turboed :S Dont quite get that, I think the handling is better then GT4 but still not quite right. Will see how it goes once I get a bit further into it

From memory you have to unplug one of the plugs from the AAC valve to get the true reading. Think it's the purple plug Thats on a 33 anyway figured 34 would be the same. Mine was the same until I unplugged that plug. Have a search it's on here somewhere

Sweet Been sick of no boot spaceand having my sub fly around.

i only had a quick go but it does feel like just a slightly prettier GT4 with a few extra bells and whistles I guess See what happens after I have a bit more of a go

Mine's installing. I have a 500GB 7200rpm hard drive in the PS3 so it seems to be going a little bit quicker then most people are saying..... but in saying that its still taking alot longer then the game is telling me lol.... about 30 mins down so far and looks about half way maybe a bit more

Are you finding it hard to turn the existing park light part of the headlight into an LED cluster or something? put up some of your photoshops and we can try and help

Got mine today, Thanks again Phil They are quite strong little things, Think I'll do like everyone else and get a gearbox and maybe diff plug next time, there fairly wicked little magnets EDIT: Didnt understand the black hole magnets but now I get it.... Key word was 'outside' I was thinking they went inside the filter for some reason lol. Never mind my stupidity haha. Callan

If its shimmed really tight and acts like a locker/welded diff then it probably wouldnt hurt to put some turbo drive shafts on. The non turbo ones are a bit smaller and having a locked diff does put alot of strain on the drive train Be mindful that the non turbo driveshafts from memory have the 3x2 pattern on the diff (a set of 2 bolts in 3 places around the diff) So you may be required to change the CV's on the axle to get the diff end fine... Im not sure about the hub end if theres a difference between the spline's in the CV or not...... personal opinion but... Unless your going to drift it, leave your diff in there or just get a standard LSD. Locked Diffs feel rough, draw alot of attention, and puts more stress on everything

I have one of those moulded sub boxes on the way if you want to know how it fits etc. Should be here next week at the latest.