89CAL

I have BC V1's that just went on my car, After a bit of adjustment and playing around Im happy with the height etc atm There pretty good on the street, I wanted to keep the car relatively driveable so went with the V1's with 8kg front and 6kg rear spring rates Ive only just got the car going again tonight but the limited driving ive done I like them, there not soft by any means but there much nicer then other skylines I've been in with coilovers, Depends what your after really as I said there not soft.... but there not that hard either

yeah sounds like you may have connected the line that goes to the BOV return line (if your still using that) or the line for the boost presssure (from cooler pipes) around the wrong way theres 2 ports on the solenoid, one for each, then the one that goes to the wastegate. Im pretty sure anyway?

you did plug the standard boost controller electrical plug in and have checked for damaged wires to it? Im pretty sure if it was just left disconnected but it would just run 5psi all the time

I think the engine thing is stupid. They wanted to cut costs so they told everyone to build V8's then put a freeze on development. Now they want to change them again Seriously.... it must cost several times as much to design basically a whole new engine then to just refine what you already have. And is a turbo 4 really going to be much more economical then a V8 in terms of race engines?

nah they have.... like a wheel where the X and square buttons are as your accelerator and brake so you can control your acceleration alot better they look interesting, but i cant be bothered getting one from over in america

nothing been said in here for a while but thought id put up a comparison photo of stock vs HKS 2835 KAI

yeah you notice the difference in acceleration especially going from 16's lol I've had my 19's for about 2 years but its finially come to the point where i cant be bothered anymore, and have ordered 18's

check that all the hoses for the stock boost controller are hooked up. I've never heard of one failing and doing that. Theres a DIY on how to earth out the solenoid to run constant 7psi, it should have some photos of where all the hoses should hook up to

you were gonna buy a VN instead of going and buying a $20 boost controller to get it to go to 7psi? that makes no sense... why would you want to downgrade like that. If you get the standard boost solenoid and plumb it up you can cut one of the wires and earth it straight to the chassis and have 7psi constant. Theres a tutorial on it somewhere As for the bit about the restrictor? I havent seen that in an R33 but I think there is something like that in the 34's but not 100% the boost solenoid has 2 ports close to each other and one somewhere else, Im pretty sure the 2 close together go to the cooler piping and the BOV return line, the other line goes to your W/G actuator. What was said above about tee-ing the solenoid to the W/G actuator on one side and bov return on the other should not be done. There will never be enough boost supplied to the actuator to open the wastegate if you do this and it will boost till it goes bang but I may be wrong about how it is hooked up, havent had a stock boost solenoid for a long time. should be able to find photos on here somwhere, probably in the thread to do the 7psi constant boost earth mod.

couldnt get a shiny pod filter to match? Will be keen to see what times that thing will do when its done, will be crazy If the weather fines up here.........

i can only manage 1:37's in my R33 GTR V-Spec LM Limited Had to detune it to get it into the power range lol. Still, not sure how your supposed to do it in this GTR, looks like the newer the GTR the better

I have 19's on mine but go for 18's... the only reason I ended up getting 19's is because every rim I liked i got told couldnt get the right offset for 18's so eventually I got over it and said stuff it and got 19's lol They look great, but there just to big, car felt about 10 times slower after putting them on because of the higher rolling circumference (going from 16's to this was a big jump) Ive even ordered new 18's now to replace the 19's. Depending on what size you want will depend on what offset you can run to avoid scrapping etc. Once you work out what size and width you want then you can work out what offset you will need here are my wheels if you want an idea of what 19's look like, but again I reccomend 18's

Yeah there's a trick to it. Think you need the larger plastic collar from the stock shifter but not sure I made my own solid short shifter. Much easier when it's all factory lol

Someone likes the sound of trucks Sorry..... Couldn't help myself lol

I'm sure there would be a way to do this with the power fc as well with an interface box hooked up. Would just be a matter of programming to translate the values

stock coil packs are the best you can get, as long as you can get them new the only reason they are mainly no good is because they are to old and have worn out due to heat in the engine bay absoloutly nothing wrong with good condition stock coils. But there expensive as hell to buy brand new

turbo cars are designed to go fast when boosted. Simple as that. non turbo cars have the advantage of no lag, and I think your forgetting that some little cars, even with there small 1.4L engines etc, are still quite light and if there putting there foot flat to the floor, the engine will be at its peak performance, where as your RB20 at say 1/4 throttle, off boost will be no where near its potential. your saying we arent getting it? is there a better way you can explain it if the above is not how your driving it?

+1 for splitfires Yellow jackets are probably good but really depends havent been out long enough to know they last, but then again they havent been out long enough to prove they arent better then others you can get proven results with splitfires, or get the yellow jackets and be unsure how long they will last.

I know it probably wont happen, but I will be stoked if they decide to bring Spa Francorchamps as a track in a download eventually Highly doubt it will happen but you never know. Should have been in the game from the beginning, I love the flow of the track

there about to have no top rubber mounts

Greedy I think just bought out a touch screen engine monitoring system or it may have been one of the other big Japanese brands. I guess there would be a way to wire something like this to your screen but at the end of the day it would be cheaper/easier to just use the unit itself If the genuine gtr items were cheap enough they would be the go. But I'd say to do one as you want would require some sort of mini computer in the car and a custom program? But if you could find someone to do this I'm sure there would be a market for it. I have a 7 inch screen in my car and something like that would be cool to check vitals. Especially seen as I could run it behind my music/iPod playing

Yeah would pay to check the base timing when starting the engine for the first time after changing the timing belt. Think you have to take the TPS plug out to do this. Quick search should give you some answers Good luck

The only way to really get rid of te heat from the pipes is to run a front facing plenum or maybe the above method. My pipes with the front David plenum show a great temperature difference After driving the car i can hardly touch the pipes on the hot side of the intercooler and can quite easily hold my hand on the cool side of the piping near the throttle body. Mines all stainless piping but without putting a heat gun on it, the differences feels about 20 degrees or more Unless your chasing big numbers I wouldn't worry to much about it though.

There's not really to much fun in b-spec anyway. The drivers I have suck I get so frustrated when my driver won't get up the inside into a corner, or struggle to overtake on the straights. I think the b-spec mode was way better in gt4 where you could just set the speed you wanted them to go but I guess there trying to make it a bit more technical in gt5

Check out PM-R33's HEL stainless braided brake line group buy (the first one) for pics. There's also a DIY I think that has good photos. Check them out to give you an idea for length