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I dont understand why you dont want to hit boost, the fuel economy cant be that bad surely? lol

its an RB20... has no VCT There not that punchy off boost, but they do rev nice, most of the power is when the turbo comes in, and without the VCT you dont feel the torque like you do with a RB25

bigger turbo? well........what turbo is it?

Do they still make the g4's? Because I thought they were pretty good for spare parts and service so if there still around give them a go

i got 'next lap invalidated' when i missed one of the chicanes on sarthe so i guess cutting certain corners gets you this. I was doing this in GT mode just on a free run (practice) with my veyron I just won. BTW does anyone with the Veyron think the rear wing movement is a bit sketchy. Just doesnt look right, I mean it does what its supposed to do in real life, just the way it appears in the game doesnt seem realistic for some reason Made it to the extreme A-spec events. Much more fun then the races up until now Although my near fully modded R33 GTR V-Spec LM Edition can win quite easily, even against race cars

a month isnt long to wait. Id do as you said and put the stock ECU in until youve got everythng else done. As youve just pointed out, now point forking out twice for a tune within the space of a month or so

all in the above post is correct also

The piping kit should work on different coolers as long as the inlet/outlet on the intercooler is in the same spot on both. My GK Tech cooler has 3" inlet and outlet at the bottom on each side FYI

GK Tech used to sell intercooler kits for VL turbos that didnt require any hole cutting. Wouldnt that be the best bet or does the 25 not really sit anywhere near where the RB30 did/would?

Pretty sure you can reset it if it's been locked. If you do the init all it will reset the ecu to it's base tune and you will need to do the first startup self learn process. Then go get it tuned

If the whole front end has been changed you will need to change bonnet, lights, bar and grille

it might not be very straight forward as the speed (and therefore odometer) runs off an electronic signal from the gearbox. Someone might know but not many would have tried I dont think

Sweet lol. I couldn't remember cause I played around with the bracket that came with the plenum and the original so couldn't remember

Yeah the angle looks a bit harsh but the cable still moves smoothly I think it's the original throttle cable bracket that was on the stock plenum just bent a bit

easiest way to check if its a vacumm leak is to spray some aerostart or similar around the pipes while the engine is running and if theres a vacuum leak the engine will rev a bit. Dont spray stupid amounts around just spray a little bit. if it revs when you spray some, then check the spot around where you sprayed

+2 should be able to tell exactally what the problem is with a set of gauges chucked on if the person knew what they were doing

Sorry I took a while Here is the Greddy copy plenum with the R33 GTST standard cable. hope it helps, its not the best photo sorry Theres a bit of a harsh bend on the cable but its been working fine since the start of this year

my stock clutch struggled to handle around 150rwkw. There not the best OEM clutch are you sure its a stock clutch? sounds like it could be aftermarket as the stock clutch is pretty smooth and you should be able to get it to change smoothly if it was the stock clutch

I thought the clutches in skylines were self adjusting....

Sorry I only just read that now. I'll try and remember to take a photo tomorrow lol. PM me tomorrow around 6pm if you want

I think the FC boost control kit has boost and gain? Or it might be boost and duty? I can't remember, all I know is that the number that is usually 255 when you first enter a boost setting changes over time so I figured it would be gain that ou adjust going on the explanation given a few posts back but it could be duty, been to long since I played with it lol. But that's good info. I now understand what gain and duty do now Should make it easier when I go to setup the KAI I've found when playing with it, adjusting the duty or gain, whichever it is, will change the boost you get. I think with a low setting I had it hit about 8psi then start creeping up. But again it's been a while. I know it hit a certain boost then creeped up or down from there but so playing with it to much will change your boost

You need to pull the TPS plug out to check. Your seeing the ecu putting the ignition timing at 20 degrees. See what happens when you unplug the TPS plug ( don't remember which one) and see if it makes a difference. Doing this should get your base timing which is what you want

Standard one does work If you do the bracket right. I can send you a photo if you want

That's interesting.... JonnoHR31: How often do you see the high Inj Duty (90% +)?

what fuel pump is that with?