89CAL

Did a quick fit of the sub box today. Its soooo light I was worried I was going to break it! but seems solid and well built Sorry its a bad photo off my iPhone but you get the idea

The cushion button is a nice clutch to drive. Im sure you'll like it Just takes a little while to get used to but its nothing like getting used to a full button

Dilema 1: Are you talking about the Spigot bush and the throwout bearing?. The Spigot bush is the one in the back of your crank where the input shaft for your gearbox sits when its mated to the engine and the throwout bearing is the one that activates your clutch. Sorry just not sure about the terms your using lol, but if that sounds right then...... Spigot bush is probably OK unless you can notice something Odd about it. The throwout bearing I would replace.... Usually clutch kits come with a new throwout bearing? seen as you havent put the transmission on it wouldnt hurt to change both now while its not to much of an issue. But id Def change the throwout bearing. Dilema 2: Thats a harder one without seeing and knowing more.... But I think that with the throwout bearing and clutch fork on it will spring the clutch plate out a little. But this one im not so sure about.....

you might have a fuel rich/safer tune then what hamish is running, that wouldnt be all of the reason why you would have such high duty cycle but it would play a part. Along with what others have said. I'm not a fan of the bosch 040 in skylines for many reasons, but they do flow well enough. Maybe it might pay to do the direct feed re-wire/pump relay anyway

I had weather shields on mine when I bought it. Got the dealer to rip them off. It looks much cleaner without them I think.

(07) 32779403 I forget who I talked to but he seemed to have a good idea of what he was on about. Might pay to give them a call if your after info asap, because they didnt reply to my email for a little while. But I might have just caught them at a bad time. I went overboard with my clutch, because I had an exedy cushion button fail and hadn't really thrashed it as much, and only with 200rwkw. But I think that was down to the pressure plate which was a SECO. I know people running more power with the same Exedy cushion button clutch that didnt have issues with it, but with mine failing just after a year and a half, I thought I would just get something that I wouldnt have to bother replacing. I got the 10" sprung button clutch, think it was rated to 400kw.

+1 for NPC If your curious give them a call. The guy I talked to was very helpful

How is this a cheat? :S

Yeah I see what your saying there..... May come down to the different front housing design with the KAI over the Pro S. Might very well be just basically a gt-rs rear housing but improved and with the 2835 front. The best way will be for me to post up my results when mine is on and the car tuned. But it could be a while till that happens. Anything above 280rwkw will see me very happy, time will tell if it will make it that far. But I don't see why hks would make a turbo the same as another one in their range, seems more like the thinking behind this was to make it slightly easier/more suited to go on the skyline with the direct fit Nissan bolt patterns on the turbine side But like I said, we will see if I'm right or wrong when its up and running lol Sorry to OP about stealing your thread lol. But you did ask about the KAI Thanks for all the info/comments/theories. Has been good seeing what people think

Yeah that's what I thought. It's only a loss of about 10nm and a gain of a few horsepower. Should be good enough for me anyway. The little graph shows it hits boost a touch earlier to I think? But again nothing worth bragging about, the turbos seem that similar it's not funny

interesting. The specs Ive been able to find indicate a gain in HP over the Pro S, with a loss of some torque. 出力 Output トルク Torque HKS GT2835KAI HKS GT2835KAI 423ps/6710rpm 423ps/6710rpm 54.5kg-m/4550rpm HKS GT2835Pro S HKS GT2835Pro S 421ps/6670rpm 421ps/6670rpm 55.4kg-m/4460rpm HKS GT-RS HKS GT-RS 400ps/6910rpm 400ps/6910rpm 51.2kg-m/4450rpm HKS Website Hopefully its similar to the Pro S. Hamish: Your results with the Pro S are what made me want this turbo. After seeing the results with E85 I was sold. Was told by Nengun that this turbo was new so who knows. From what I can see theres a GT2835 R, which seems to have been out for a while, but Ive found very little info about the KAI Even the HKS website has it hidden away pretty well.

Cant see anything inside the flange inlet but it has 064 stamped around the back adjacent to where the HKS logo is, Kinda sounds a bit like it

I ordered the Pro S from NENGUN and a little while after that I got an email saying that the Pro S was proving difficult to get but a new version was available - GT2835 KAI But for the life of me I Cant find the KAI on the Nengun site?

There supposed to be anti-surge slots I'm pretty sure. The HKS T04's (?) have them As for their purpose, Im guessing they help with surging at high RPM/Boost but wether I'm right and how it would do that is beyond me.... Someone should be able to shed some light on that And the dilema I was talking about with the dump was: Because I have a 3 Inch bellmouth dump pipe that goes from turbo to Cat. I would need to modify that or buy a new front pipe to fit from the HKS dump to the Cat. I had assumed that the rear would bolt up to the standard pattern but I sorta relise now where I went wrong lol. Either way, KAI seems good for me

dont believe so... braided oil and water lines came in the kit so I can only guess there included because stock items dont fit. But thats only an assumption, they will be going on anyway lol BTW: I didnt relise the Pro S didnt bolt straight up to the dump pipe.... This saves me a bunch of headaches trying to get my dump pipe changed to fit between the HKS dump and the Cat

ahh i see now a few things make sense yeah it has the Nissan 5 flange for direct bolt up to dump pipe. No HKS Dump provided as there is with the Pro S kit

for those who wanted to see the GT2835 KAI From the specs I've seen, its near identical to the Pro S. Like I said I'm pretty sure most of the difference is in the internal design. Specs show slightly more power and slightly less torque but I've seen conflicting specs on power and torque so not 100% sure till it goes on the car or I can find someone else who has tested one

If it's anything like the early RB30 blocks there should be a round area that is cast so it protrudes slightly from the block which you would need to drill then tap out. From memory there are to on the 30 block but I'm not sure if they are both oil galleries or not. On the rb30 block these points were near the bottom on the exhaust side I'm pretty sure Basic info and I've never tapped these lines so probably not much help but maybe it will

I think the main difference between the pro s and the KAI is the inlet and some internal improvements. I will take some photos soon. Working 12 hour days at the moment so dont get alot of time to do things lol

Who wanted the hi red photos of the KAI? I have to take it out of the box to match some things up so can probably snap a photo, anything in particular you wanted to look at?

have you got an aftermarket steering wheel? something has gone wrong if it wont go into diagnostic mode. Mine wouldnt do that when I had my boss kit on wrong. but the light only came on after driving over 80kmh for about 20 mins

I got DUPONT for mine I'm pretty sure. Was $100 or so I think for 2L but I'm not 100% sure, this was a while ago. But yeah go see a paint shop, they can mix some up and give you a price. I think all I said was Nissan KH3 black for an imported Nissan Skyline. Something like that

the .82 rear is optioned for the 1JZ as well. I've just got my HKS GT2835 KAI kit, so I'm interested to see the difference in this over the Pro S. Supposed to be the new version of the Pro S but I cant find much info on it, other then it makes a couple of KW more at the cost of some torque? But its still a bit sketchy anyway lol. Glad to see you got yours sorted mate. Will be helpful if something similar happens to me when my tune is started

Your Hicas sensor is a bit different to mine in the series one. I guess cause of the air bag. The boss kit you need should have a little hole for the little stubby bit of plastic sticking out there. It should rotate that part with the steering wheel. Because you've got a lock bar and have taken the light out it shouldnt be to much of an issue if it doesnt rotate it perfectly. Mine had an issue where I had the boss kit on wrong, and it was not contacting the tab immediatly when turning the wheel, which bought up a warning when I drove above 80kmh for a while. But as I said that shouldnt be an issue with you with the lock bar and HICAS light removed. But I think because with the sensor removed there will be a gab between the steering wheel and whatever that it probably wont work, your horn will be weird to get around to..... So easiest way would be just to buy the HICAS/AIRBAG Boss kit.

probably just a wiring fault then. Might just be earthing the wire for the cat sensor when the AC compressor is cutting in and out or something. Just check to see what they did to the sensor when they replaced your exhaust