Cubes

A bit of variety doesn't go astray. Our last SAU dyno day was rather boring to say the least. The one prior; no restrictions just who ever wants to enter enter. It was great, a few VL's, MS75's beast etc. ------ I'm thinking about it, should be a nice little surprise providing the gearbox holds up. 1:1 should be fine lol :S

Was a nice little turn out. Great to put a few names to faces. Paul & Redgtst were u there?

Paul, Its a GT35r .82 running the xr6 .5 comp cover to pull up response from the big huffer. ---- Thanks for the heads up tek_01. I'll have a bit more of a look in to it.

Because for myself I have an R32 so I have to go out and buy either an rb25 or rb26 head. The added cost of a plenum on the rb25 head pushes its total cost up to and possibly slightly over the cost of a 26head with its inlet manifold/plenum. So costs are evened out.. BUT the rb26 head flows better due to higher lift more agressive ramped solid cams, better port angles, slightly larger valves etc. So unless you own an R33 the rb26head is a financially better option.

26 head is obviously better and from a $$ to performance view it works out cheaper in the long run. Especially for an rb30det when they really do require a decent inlet. Most people use the RB25 because its what they start off with. OR because its just a touch cheaper initially. If I were to do the rb30det again today with todays rb26 head prices I wouldn't think twice about the rb25 head.

Hi ppls, I'm redoing my intercooler and will be buying a core (most likely from JJ) and then redo the piping myself. I'll be running maybe a touch over 300rwkw on 18-20psi. I'm looking at a cheapy intercooler thats 600x300x75 and runs 2.5" piping from JJ on Ebay. There's another that is the same size 600x300 but is 100mm thick BUT runs 3" piping so I'd have to run a step down silicon connector as most of the JJ/Gktech kits do. Is a 75mm thick cheapy intercooler sufficient for 500-550bhp or should I just grab the 100mm thick item? I know of a few running the JJ/GkTech kits and they are pushing 300rwkw without problems BUT I believe its the 100mm thick core. Any one done those sort of power levels with the 75mm core?

I think the chrome tail light just looks daggy or better put ^^^ like ass. lol Almost look like some one who's off their face on speed!! Eyes wide open buzzing. lol

Hey Maxx. The Nismo JGTC LED do indeed look very nice. Definitely see a difference in quality compared to the cheap silver shit above.

Of which the stock ecu doesn't do above 4500rpm so well great, your protected through out peak torque which is most dangerous but what about the top end? Which aftermarket ecu does retard ignition with knock? I believe there isn't one that is 'sensibly' priced for the average street Skyline? 'Generally' a tuned motor will not knock excessively and will only knock slightly under certian condtions, you take note get it back to the tuner and iron it out. Something of which you'd have no clue its doing with a stock ecu or an ecu that gives you no feedback.

Freebaggins daily r33 ran for much longer than 10months making 313rwkw on its stock bottom end and low 20psi running some sorted int gate gt3040 running a larger vlt style exh. housing that had been extrude honed. But it was tuned by Shaun, so what can I say. All in the tuning and how responsible the owners is to ensure it DOES NOT KNOCK! Which is the beauty of the PowerFC. Knock feeback.

I'll grab one just for curiosity. Did you grease it up a touch before hand? Where do u get them for $10? Being Nismo I assume Nissan sell them?

The CES is a top quality design according to their pics on the web site. Does yours have the o2 sensor mounted upside down? Apparently its a big no no for o2 sensors as water sits in them when upside down. I can't remember the exact specs but its supposed to be something like no more than 25-30degree's angle from upright. Any fuel consumption problems? Getting more than 12-13L/100km's?

What difference?

Nice chip JNR. Looked like a god damn 4wd before.

The gearbox front input and tail shaft seals arn't worth much. Consider the clutch will be in there for another 60-100,000km's so its probably worth while doing the seals now. When I first bought mine I had the clutch done. No leaks. No less than 20,000km's later I noticed a little drip from the front of the gearbox. A stuffed input shaft seal. 'Bastard'. Do it while its out! I got that replaced then a year later the output shaft seal was nacked. Then 3rd gear got munched so I didn't worry about it. So........ Input shaft seal and gasket Output shaft seal Spiggot bush Hardened pivot if your running a 1000kg+ clutch. Maybe a new slave cylinder they are only $30-$40 odd. Check gearbox mount as often than not if you've been giving it a bit of a hard time it will be busted. and some good castrol synthetic or redline gearbox oil. Reweld up the pedal box at a later date if you wish. With heavy duty 800kg+ clutches its just a matter of 'when' they pop the spot welds. Should cost no more than $30 to reweld. + labour for in and out if you can't be bothered laying on your back for 30mins.

Is using a GTR a wise idea for drift? A mates R32 GTS4 has a very limited steering lock compared to my GTST.

Better late than never. Late 1992 R32 GTST Non-ABS Master Cyl. Excellent pedal feel. Almost too easy to lock all 4 wheels but that comes down to the pad that I run. Hasn't had a flush for 1yr. :S Only markings I can see on it are: BM-44 NAB00 I had a mate with a Late 1992 GTS4 check his he said it says.. Japan Nissan Tokico BM50

Kastin, You are correct, as I said in my post cam shaft specs (overlap etc) influence the guage reading/dynamic compression. So given 2 cars with identical static comp ratio's and identical cam shaft specs both 'should' read near identical on the same guage.

Should be good when AIR opens back up. See if I can waste you.

lol. I'm conservative.

PAUL you ricer!

Bit yucky. They might look even worse going in to a light coloured car as there would be no contrast difference making the arse end of the skyline look rather plain.

Mines an interesting setup. :S I run the Wiseco RB25 pistons with a supposive 14cc dome and 1.240" pin height. 0.051" Cometic Headgasket 62cc combustion chamber. The rods have been resized etc. Unsure how this will affect how the piston sits in the bore. The engine builder said he was decking the block 0.040" due to the rb25's lower pin height. (1.240 vs 1.280) If the block has been decked 0.040" which would result in an expected 0deck height then that would achieve a comp ratio of 10:1. :S But I'm sure thats not the case as all cylinders only have ~154psi and have done so since day one. If the deck height is 0.040" that drops the comp ratio down to ~9:1. But still 154psi for 9:1? Sounds a little low. BUT the stock rb25de n/a cams will be bleeding a little of that compression off as they do run a little more overlap compared to stock turbo cams. Either way my tuner believes the comp is down around 8.5:1 ish according to the amount of ignition he runs vs boost level and power. So who knows lol. :S It does return excellent fuel economy though. Local short trips etc i'm getting mid 10's to low 11 litres per 100km's. It does feel a hell of a lot more responsive than a mates GTS4 rb30det BUT that is running a much larger turbo, 250kg odd heavier car + my head has had quite a bit of porting/polishing and valve deshrouding done all of which helps.

7's will definitely not be too hot unless your pushing 350-400rwkw. My bet is on it running lean. Possibly the misfire is a lean misfire.

It is a prick of a job. Especially when the first time I was under there fiddling I lifted the pedal from the floor slightly, it sprung up and smacked me in the face. :S