Cubes

A chain. Now its getting ugly.. Or even better, how about a solid drive gear.. sound like a supercharger then. lol

lol.. what a photochop.

Group buy really isn't worth it. You don't end up saving much when considering the price of postage from your place to others and then the possibility of being stung by customs.

You could chop up an lcd screen for your dash. Would look awesome until the once a day.... BSOD

For a laptop to emulate the code contained within the ecu's specialist chips I think you will find the processing power required is considerable. Very similiar to that of a mobile phone; try to create software that does what the specialised chips do in a mobile phone and you will need a computer half the size of your bonnet.

I wouldn't be suprised if these ausy shops buy the splitfires from perfect run and slap a couple hundred on top.

Good stuff, the gas research carby completely slipped my mind. There is another much more restrictive gas carby that I have had experience with. Absolutely riped the guts out of performance. But it did return damn close to petrol fuel economy on cruise. However, give it a boot full and it sucked considerably more. SK is on the ball with the lower octane rating, it also varys from servo to servo. With regards to backfiring I never had any issues with the gas carby but did on the old O-ring setup. Another issue I came across is when the motor is cold, give it a bootfull and the gas convertor will freeze as the water temp is unable to handle the conversion rate. This isn't an issue if you don't boot it until water temp is at least up. I would only ever consider a gas conversion if it were to use gas injection. The carby setup has many flaws, as sk has suggested.

Good stuff... Once again, thanx for reporting back, all too often people sort the issue and forget about their thread.

Too complex, too big, too much gearing required to spool the turbo at idle. 1000rpm vs 80,000+ rpm. They already have a similiar 'concept', its called electrically assisted turbo. Basically a little elec motor spins up the turbo.

Depends on the setup. The gas injection setups replace your petrol injectors with gas injectors. The ecu then controls the injections in the usual duty cycle manner. This is the best setup for performance, reliability, economy and safety. If you run a gas carb setup well... On N/A's they place a massive restriction on the inlet lowering performance BUT they do offer excellent economy. SOME gas systems utilize the o2 sensor and run closed loop mode, so again better economy. Yes you still need an AFM as how will the motor know what load is being placed on the motor. Please do keep us posted with the results and problems you come across, shall be an interesting read. What setup are you going? Gas injection, gas carby or the old gas O-ring setup.

Thats a stupid comment... It was stated it was on the car. Then next thing u hear the owner is possibly boosting the crap out of it to see how far it goes and BANG!.

Aweseom raz0r$harP, Those td06 turbo's are awesome considering, the power they make and where they spool. Lets see that out of a 2530.

Agreed, however it comes down to the intended use. Its a street car, do you really need those feautres that are only going to attract attention should one be pulled over. Not sure what its like in other states but here in SA if the car even looks to be slightly modified your off for a full inspection. If I were to often hit the track I would most definitely have choosen a nicer ecu for the car. I just don't have the need for the added features. Hell I've got a PFC handcontroller but it sits in the draw next to the bed. Honestly, I just drive the car and give it a little stick from time to time. Nothing serious, which explains why it still runs std height suspension. I have plans for the car in a year so (I have no intention selling, they aren't worth anything) I may see the arse end of the pfc as I'll be dropping something in that has better/quicker datalogging with more features. So its my opinion for a streeter, you don't need these other features unless your in to rice/hardcore street racer vtec yo and want that shift light reflecting off your face or a launch control system to show how sik your car must be. On the track or regular at the drags.. its a different story.

There's also more to it than just admin. costs. With regards to sending money overseas... Its not too good for their already seriously damaged economy.

Giving it a boot full through the hills and back for almost a whole tank appears to not make too much of a difference in fuel economy. drops down to flat 400km's per tank, once i've seen 380km's but that was absolutely flogging it every chance I had. So yer worse I've had is ~13.5L/100km's roughly. I must admit, not many R33's for what ever reason return good economy. I know of plenty R32's pushing close to the figures I do.

MR331307, I'm pushing 10.6-11L/100km's out of my RB30DET, no open road driving, all short local max 20-30km trips. Providing the cars warm it does get stick. It drives like factory, cold and warm starts perfectly and has a perfectly stable idle. There's literally nothing I can pick with it. Driveability is perfect. It hangs in closed loop until it see's boost. Apart from picking up a little more economy with more flexible closed loop control is it really worth the extra $$. From my point of view, No. I don't need fandangled features that loose their novelty soon after. You can't argue for sub 1k price tag of the apexi pfc + h/c, sequential injection, 6 coil drivers, closed loop, stepper motor control, boost kit option, excellent control of large injectors + more it really is a bargain. There will always be better out there but it comes down to if its really warranted. Yes my coils are on their way, they've done a minimum of 217,000km's and I'm up for ~$550 for a set of splitfires.

I run one on mine, had it fitted ~2yrs ago. They do have a rubber type coating on them and it specifically states not to use any coating sprays. Mines sealed well with no issues, daily driven, lots of short trips so its seen thousands of heat cycles.

Check for water leaks around the water pump, they have a little hole in them that indicates when they are corroded, they then leak from this hole. Much better than having no indication and sending the fan through the radiator. If thats not it check all little hoses under the manifold and the little one that runs around the back of the head (drivers side). I highly doubt its a headgasket or what not.

When that fast hatch bloke eventually gets his powerfc software out thats supposed to handle closed loop tuning.

If thats the case you might very well receive the turbo tangles.. A broken one though If that is the case, (running 24psi of boost through it as he's sold it and blows the thing up) he very much deserves a smack around the head.

They should give them selves a pat on the back. Some very positive feedback in this thread.

I think there's bigger problems on our plate than air quality. Well Sydney's plate at least.. They only have enough water to last them roughly 2 years, hard times ahead for sydney. Unless there's some sort of miraculous reverse in our weather patterns and global warming, which aint going to happen any time soon.

From the pinout point of view the rb25 ecu is the most straight forward as they are very much alike. However an rb26 item can also be used but does have an extra fuel pump something or other pinout which I'm not sure what it does exactly. From memory on the rb25 ecu you swap inj. 4 & 6 pin outs and then snip wire 57.

Depends on the dyno, day, conditions, engine condition, exhaust and tune. But yer.. around the 250-260rwkw.. Don't aim too high, always better to aim lower then be happy if you get more.

Just jap have the japan made oil RB oil filters.. Well according to the picture at least. :S http://www.justjap.com/parts_noils.htm