Cubes

SR20, GT30, 288rwkw on 14.5psi with standard cams? If so I'd be inclined to ask... Who's dyno? My setup is similiar to dans minus the highmount manifold which really doesn't do a lot for peak power until up over 285-290rwkw During tuning we saw a peak of 270rwkw on 1bar (later pulled 2 degree's only dropped 2rwkw); 17psi we saw 285rwkw but pulled the boost back out to save the rb20det gearbox. Of which has now been replaced for an rb25 g/box. Std inlet manifold/plenum, standard cams, standard exhaust manifold and std airbox but with a 100mm CAI in to the base of it. So 2 similiar figures at similiar boost levels on the same dyno. Dyno's differ. Run it up at Boostworx with std sticks in the sr20 and I will be surprised if it makes 288rwkw on 14.5psi. If it does; well the RB's are shit and SR's are the king. From my readings on NS.com generally the GT30's on the SR's need some reasonable cams and boost; only then do they crack 300rwkw.

You should expect half. Which is generally ~70degree's to ~109degree's. Operating temp should be around 83-85degree's when using a genuine thermostat. When you come to a stop the coolant continues to circulate to cool the turbo's; its called thermo syphoning. That is most likely the bubbling type noises you hear. You should only be concerned if its pushing water oil the overflow.

Don't give it sh*t when the oil is cold unless you are want to rebuild it. Oil temp is different from water temp; generally it takes ~10mins of driving before oil temp is at operating temp.

Sounds very very nice. I've replayed it over and over and over. I could listen to it all day. lol. All though partially due to the solid lifter setup. Hydraulic cams sound much smoother. A good thing for not being defected though. Cheers Shane.

BHDAve, the GT30 IW dump flange is identical to the XR6 dump flange. As Simon said.. MTQ. They are ~$30 from memory.

Will be keen to see the results.. As for measuring the turbo's response. Maybe pick an rpm; say 4000rpm as it should be well and truley making all its boost by then. Second gear stomp on the throttle. Third gear at a private track only. By using a video camera on the dash that also shows the boost gauge you 'should' be able to see a slight difference in response.

Cheers Adriano, I do plan on dropping a GT35r .8 on it at a later date once I push the limit of the GT30. As Uni is now all done with and I'm working I have a fair bit more $$ to throw at the car and have some fun with it down at Mallala. So it will be primarily a car I race down at the track. Similar to the Troymeister but I'd still like it to idle 'ok' so it doesn't attract too much attention. I'm hoping some one has played with 265 cams in a hydraulic head and the RB30.

I'm just about to get the cams sorted from Tighe cams for mysetup. I've been recommended by both my tuner and Tighe cams to go the 265/265 in/exh. My only small concern is will the 265/265's lope over noticeably on idle? A mate has the 254/254 cams and the idle is baby smooth; the note did change slightly but there is no lope. If the 265/265's do lope would the 254/265 setup smooth the idle? I wouldn't mind a slight lope but I've been you tubing SR20's (same bore stroke) with 264 cams and they lope over like bridgy's. :S All though the SR's do run a LOT more lift that I will be running (8.9mm). The cams are hydraulic so no doubt slightly reduced ramp rate which may also smooth idle slightly compared to rb26 solid cams. Any guesstimates based on sort of similiar experience? :S

Garrett IW FTW. Don't buy the other crappy 5bolt ford style. The Garrett IW looks near identical to the XR6T IW design; but slightly improved. Be sure to run with a well designed bell mouth dump as splits have a tendency to creep on the GT30 Garrett IW housings. Better be safe than sorry. Besides if boost levels are identical (of which they generally are not when running a split vs bell) if the split is plumbed in there's no difference in power. Have it screaming to atmo then yeah there is a slight power benefit. So back to back on the Dyno results have shown.

Nice.. I still think if they chopped the front lights down to just after the projector the car would look a little more intimidating/staring/angry looking.

The BB VG30DET turbo from the Leopard/Cima has the same turbine housing as the R34 GTT Turbo. If you talking the old school VG30DET from the Z31's then yes they are around the .8 a/r. So slightly larger again.

With cams you might get pretty close. With respect to the GCG highflow; cams + the highflow = 260rwkw. Generally without cams they see in the 240-250rwkw range depending on dyno obviously.

I've got a rb25t gearbox in it. I'm more worried about how the single plate will handle it. It 'apparently' is able to handle 330-350rwkw behind a GTR so given mine is rwd time will tell.

I like to look at cars that are different; something that's a little different doesn't have to be pretty. I get a little tired of reading of cheque book racers that look pretty or the same setups over and over. I prefer something that's a little more home grown. Possibly with a sponge or 3 thrown in there hey Salad. lmao

I don't believe you need the antisurge comp cover on the 71mm comp wheel. The portshroud 'apparently' slightly reduces the comps efficiency; a trade off for preventing surge. 250-260rwkw from the GT3071 with the .6 I see as possible. The difference is lean on it much harder and it won't make power as easy as the .8 rear will or for a given power it will require more boost, it will at some point hit a brick wall and require better fuel due where as the .8 rear is able to get that exhaust gas out just that bit easier and will/should continue making power; providing the comp wheel is able to keep up with the airflow. So with the GT3071 as I said in a round about way above I think is a good match with the .6 rear. Going the .8 I'm not so sure would be worth while as your trading only 20rwkw for a slightly less responsive, doughier setup. From what I can tell going by how mine appears to be running with the GT30 .8 the 71mm comp wheel should on my setup provide enough airflow for ~280-290rwkw. The 76mm comp wheel 'should' provide enough airflow for ~330rwkw. So it could do nicely with the .8 rear to make use of all its compressor flow. A .6 rear on pump fuel with the 76mm comp wheel I think is kills its potential a little. I have seen 323rwkw from the 76mm comp wheel before; .8 rear, 254 cams and exhaust manifold on an rb25. I have no idea what the results would be like with a .6 rear GT3076 and a pair of cams; possibly worse due to high exh manifold pressures? I'm soon to attempt it with a set of slightly larger cams but with std inlet manifold and exhaust. Shall be interesting to see.

Dan Dan Dan... There seems to be more highly modified R32's these days. All seem to be running RB30DET's. Mines a set of cams away from 300rwkw on fairly low boost. Fingers crossed I get to 340rwkw ish with water injection on the GT3076 .8.

Headaches only occur if you don't buy flowers or gifts every so often.

Awesome Dan.. What sort of power can they churn out with stock turbo's when tuned??

11sec Modified Territory Turbo + towbar + car trailer + Cheap R32 RB30DET 300-400rwkw track/drift car for fun.

Nah it was just regular Mobil 98 fuel.. Just happened to be a bad batch or they foobar'd the servo's tank fill.

lmao bezender, surely he must have been taking the piss.

MSPEC33, Within the 6years and 180,000km's of owning mine I've only ever had one noticeably bad batch of fuel; happened to be Mobil 8000. Pinging was audible; similiar as to how it ran with 95ron so at a guess I suspect they dropped the wrong fuel in to the incorrect tank. At the time the car was still on the stock ecu and running 1bar.

I believe Justcars do fire/theft for 10k.

I really do not understand why these silly people don't at least have Fire and Theft cover. It costs bugger all compared to full comp insurance.

If it was remapped and still returning poor fuel economy disconnect the o2 sensor and see how it goes for a tank. If tuned correctly you should see next to no difference in fuel economy with the o2 sensor connected and disconnected. For what its worth my o2 sensor is currently disabled yet still returning good economy.