petrolfix

BUMP some one must know where the air bleed valve is and what does it do exactly? same same for the pressure switch and its function. is my system over/under pressure? what pressure is it ment to be?

mine was t50 so i bought the whole set $30 @ repco

76,77 Pressure switch 78 Air bleed switch ok for some mysterious reason my fault codes keep changing every time i try and fix somthing this time it is coming up 78 and 77. does anyone know where this pressure swithch is and/or where the air bleed switch. iam going out side now to take it for a drive and see what other fault codes come up or if the change. i blead the atessa system today and changed out the fluid so i am reasonably confident that there is no air in the system (only bleed throught the bleeder behind the transfer case) i just checked my g sesor also and yes it is getting 8 volts. i also cleaned the earth on the rear cradle today this is driving me nuts y dosn't my 4wd work and whem should the relay click

thanks for that duncan but the fault code says the air bleed switch does this mean the system needs bleeding? and i ill double check that g sensor earth (allready checked it like 5 times) but ther is locktite on all the screws that hold that plate in so i will remove that and check that it is getting 8v. on the other similar post u mentioned an earth strap from the diff to the body where exactly is it had a quick look the other day but diddn't see anything. (probly couldn't see it for looking)

i was thinking of putting a larger diameter tyre on to bring my revs down a little at 110km/h is the jay car speedo adjuster variable?

i have been having a lot of heart-ache with my 4wd sytem not working. mine fault codes come up as 78,69, what is the air bleed swithch? and does any one know how much voltage should the g sensor be getting and where does it get it 's power from? eg staraght from the computer?

what happend with your 4wd system mine is not working and the relay cliks like mad any one with info i whould appeciate

duncan is there any chance you could post up a cuple of pics of your tow bar on the car and a pic of your car trailer. i am about to start building my own trailer and tow bar to tow my s13 race car around. i preety much have my plans made up for my trailer but i read through this post and it was mentioned that you have stabliser bars. as i plan to tow long distance i thought these might be a good idear. any info links or pics whould be good. who built your trailer in the first place? thanks

does it have hicas? need it

have you got some pics of the steering wheel?

power fc you will get better fuel economy and go faster. and get an exsahust it's a must.

what is signifficant with the tps with the q45? do you have a plug to go with it? what is the diameter of the afm

need this clip circiled and i need the clips that hold the cargo blind opean where the arrowos are pointing if they are in good condition. cheers also whould like to know how much do you want for your rims?

i can't belive what iam reading. other places making BETTER i want to see it. i HAVE NOT EVER seen a fiberglass shop produce a bettter body kit than what andrew at customcarbon can. the man is a guru and knows his shit about all fibre glass and carbon componets. not to mention the quality of products he uses only the best. as for will they be strong enough they are still glass however you will get a better stronger product from c3 (customcarbon) . if any of you doubt this go and see andrew he is a great bloke who will be more than happy to have a chat and tell you all about the glassing/carbon work he does and can do. if i needed a kit i whould be there. (i am getting my nismo copy side skirts there better than my shit ones that don't fit proply.) but i all ready have a days rear and have a 260rs front so unfortnatly i don't need a dayz kit. mike is right about the number plate holder get rid of it looks sweet with out it. thats just my 2cents i had to leave.

yep understand now. deffenatly in. i just need to get 2 booster areils to fit with it and bobs your uncle and if bob was a transvstite hed be your aunty got any idears on a good booster areil's to get? should i get a factory booster and wire it to a after market areil as i don't have the factory ones?

f-yeah i'm in for shure. $290 is cheap compared what the old man bought and he has to carry this big huge ass satilite. have you tried this one yet? and what does the factory ariel sit i don't have a telly model (installing aftermarket dvd player) and i noteced my areils are the rear windows with a little booster pack in the roof. is this the same for the tv models? can i modify my exsting areil's?

practicality? there both wagons who practicale do you want? what about go? besides nether will beat a stag in any way shape or form

leavering it off with a screwy is fine.

this is an aoursome thread glad to see we can keep it alive. Now my nuser name. i wanted somthing thast unique and i use petrolfix all across the net. it came about cos me and my step brother (at the time, god rest his soul) had dreams of opeaning a performance shop we where coming up with names to call it, piston-perrfection was the one we decided on at the time but our second coice was petrolfix. Petrolfix itself came about as a we both where driven by cars. all ways watching motor sport, ralling cars reading magazines, unless it had a motor i'm not interested. I have been a petrolhead all my life and as i get older the addiction gets worse. The same way a drug addict needs a fix I need a fix for my thurst for petrol powerd machines (just like my signiture reads)

that little plastic cover just clips on there just lever it off comes off with ease. but to get the old tweeter out it's probly easyer to take of the whole a/b piller cover. takes probly 10mins per side. if you have any more interior questions just ask as up until yesturday i had my entire interior out of the car. takes 4hrs to pull it all out and 2 days to put it back in :laughing-smiley-014:

just pulled out my tweeters in the front yesturday and theres not much room there for mounting aftermarket ones in. thogh i am going to cut a hole in the mesh clip in cover and glue it to that will look good when finished

adjustible whould probly be the go but on at 90 and 0ff at 85 whould be safer for those hot summerdays.

I have just installed a new aussie desert cooler street & strip radiator for $750 3 times the capacity of the old one and twin thermo's not shure on the cost of them yet i get my car back today from the auto electrictian. i ruined my fan and rad in an accident so i need new one's, any way and i wasn't settling for second best so i bought new. A new radiator from nissan was $700 + new shroud $90 and i didn't even bother about asking how much a new clutch fan whould be. I can gurantee thermo's will give you better fuel econemy and more power as it is one less thing that mechanicaly robs direct power from your crank. you now using electricity which your alternator is already providing ample and will continue to do so any way. my other argument is that i have a dirt driveway and at the moment and when you start the car with the clutch fan installed it first spins untill the fluid inside gets warm enough to let the clutch slip. this creates suction and sucks dirt up into the fan then spreads it through out the engine bay

. thermos are a good thing if you go to an auto electric wholesaler r industrial supplies store you will find that there is a hole diffrent arange of thermo fans that supply every situation. i picked out to 12' britax thermo's for my stag they are pushing 3000cfm together. my auto electrician said that these will be fine for air flow and longagevity and it won't put any extra strain on the alternator. (will have to find out how much amps they pull i forgoten). the reason nissan whould'nt of put thermos on new is they cost more, take longer to install hence them losing money and they probly decided the rb25/26DET whouldn't really notice the power loss, the reason the maxima got thermo's is the engine sits the wrong way. if you want to put thermo's on they are a good thing they are relible and they do give you more power as it has less drain on the motor. . thermostat go buy a new one DO NOT take it out with out replacing it you can get diffrent tempreture rating ones for when it open's. as our climate changes so much chose the one for your area. though being australia don't buy the snow one it will be rated at approx 92Deg C which will make your car run warmer than most, if you bought a car set up for snow driving this will likely to be the one that you have. go get a standard one 84Deg C . or if you live in north queensland N.T or north W.A buy the hot weather one 78Deg C hope this helps people out and makes you reaserch things before buying.

mate i keen to help you out. i am in the newcastle area and i have s2 silver stag (ega41t) she will be in all here former glory again and even better than ever. just finishing her off next week. i will be taking it to power cuise in march so no worries about having her in tip top shape for september. with out a scrath on her. and she always detailed looking her best. current pic and former glory pic included. (i will be using a dolfin grille this time around though)