Jack88

Normally subs will not come with a rating for what there better for however they are generally supplied with T/S paramaters (Theile / Small). From these specs you can normally work out what the sub is better suited too. In the big scheme of things the RMS value of any speaker means very little and it is not something to use to compare different models with, the RMS value is just a thermal rating meaning sure the voice coil may be able to handle that amount of power but you would have far surpased the mechanical limits of the spider and surround before you get anywhere near that value. The larger the surface area of the woofer(s) that you are using the better. Obveiously the bigger the moving surface / mass the louder and deeper it can play with less stress placed upon it. There are alot of other factors to consider when looking at subs such as the Xmax, Fs, values. Remember tho a sub is nothing without its enclosure,even a single 12" in a properly designed enclosure is enough to give your internals a good beating. What subs are you currently looking at? Jack

in my opinion 8"s are basically a waste of time.The only 8 that i would recoment is the Digital Designs DD1508 even still i wouldnt use it as a sub in any application. A well designed ported enclosure will give you plenty of tight bass. Its all in the tuning and design Sealed enclosures will give you a fairly flat frequency response but will need more power over ported or a band pass enclosure to really get going and will be down on output compaired to the others i mentiond. Sorry troy but i disagree about the capacitor statement, Iv done the tests and proven it every time, the only time caps would come into there own is when you have a very large value unit so something along the lines of 20 fared and at this point the dollar/value aspect really becomes pointless. The money you would spend on a cap is far better spent on upgrading your earths,battery etc. However the only time caps have any real effect is when used with amps runing speakers as they help filter out AC ripple,and seems subs will only produce low frequencys you will not be able to hear a difference when used with an amp running a sub. Jack

Jay if you want some advice from a installation technician that actually does this for a living please answer my questions and stop taking advice from "experts" on here, i know you mean well guys but please do not post if you do not know what your doing,you are just going to waste peoples time and money telling them to buy things they really dont need.

dont asume anything! Get a multimeter on your battery with the car running at idle with nothing else on like audio gear and take down some readings for voltage,then crank up your system to the volume you normally listen to it at where the problems happen and take down some more readings, Then post them all up here. Jack

yea its a possitive trig to lock it. from that it would defenantly be the alarm doing it. and there is NO simple way to stop it from auto locking (the factory option) to get around it you could use a relay system or mount some switches somewhere to turn the locking off when you dont care about loosing the rear window demister and then when you want the demister just switch it on and live with the auto locking. PM me what model alarm you have mate and ill find the process to stop the auto locking from the alarm.thats if you dont want everyone else knowing what alarm you have.

every one could be correct here lol.the question is tho.are the doors locking as soon as you start the car or only until you go over about 25 kmh? if its locking as soon as you start the car then its the alarm,if its locking when you go over about 25kmh then its the factory option locking and there is no way around that unless you feel like disabling your rear window demister in the process as they are tied in together. Jack

or take a close up side shot so i can see the tip of the one you bought and ill see if its the same as mine.thatl rule it out well and truly if its not the same.

i see,interesting that you say the ropes too thick,from memory all the ropes iv seen come from various models have been the same.the motors them selfs would be the same so thats not the prob. i remember when i was searching around to do one i came to the solution that as long as the end tip was the same as the original one it would fit and it did. going through the aerpro book the only one that i can see coming close to being the same is the AP12.

if hes complaining about it being 6mm too long i suggest he deals with it,it fits works fine so whats the problem?im well aware of the unit he is refuring to...iv been selling them for a number of years.

Why on earth did you start another thread for this.iv already answerd your question in your other thread! If its what i stated in your other thread i dont beleve youl have the skills needed to repair it so ether take it to someone that can or bin it and buy something new.

remove your old mast and take into autobarn or something simelar and match one up.iv done it a few times.not hard, as explained in the other thread. EDIT: Explain "wrong size rope"

For anyone else wanting to replace the mast and rope there is a universal mast and rope that fits and works fine from Aerpro for much cheaper then $80 P/N AP12

Incorrect, how ever you would have been correct if his subs were out oh phase with the rest of his system and changing the setting on the head unit from normal to reverse would have fixed the problem along with reversing the polarity of the subs or RCA leads but to me it sounds like your amp is sending DC power to you subs. This is why the cones on subs are going all the way in and staying there. It is a problem with your amp and it is highly possible that its died. There isnt really a whole lot that can cause this sort of thing apart from a fried amp.however double check over the power connections to the amp,make sure its grounded correctly etc. Try the amp in another car to rule out the rest of your system. Just read you have a cap in the system too,try removing it or bypassing it to see if that is introducing the problem,its a very slim chance that it is but its something to try. Jack

let us know how it goes! i too hate vista lol.im sticking with XP for the time being

you do realise now that if someone takes a fancy to your car and decides to steal it when they brake the lock and open the door your alarm wont go off? that button you taped up is the door trigger lol!

do you want to know what thickness MDF to use for the false floor or the sub box? or is the false floor going to be part of the sub box?

spot on there chris!, MR XTC suggested using a noise filter to get rid of the alternator whine. dont use one,they are a bandaid fix to a problem that should never of been there in the first place.re grounding your amp and making sure the RCA leads are run properly will fix this problem. how ever if it was a dodgy earth on the head units end that can cause the kind of noise your talking about too. the TF magna isnt the most easy car to pull apart for begginers.....atleaset thats what iv found when they have been brought to me from people that have attempted them.they just seem to break everything, especially around the headunit area.

Why were you trying to tune so high? tuning to 60Hz in a box that size combined with the pioneer sub you tryed it with gives it a MASSIVE 7.1 dB spike at about 70Hz,that means the sub will be over twice as loud at these frequencys then any other in its range. that would explaine your lack of bass. for starters its simply tuned way to high,for most dailys id tune around the 40Hz mark. a little spike in volume is ok and is to be expected in a ported box around the tuning frequecy but in my opinion the enclosure you built for the sub is far to small. i calculated it at about 1 cubic foot. Im happy to help you with a design.just supply me with the T/S parameters of the sub you choose and the space you have to work with.

haha did you just see it on the news to?

The generic ported boxes are well, shyt lol.i have never herd any sub that sounds good in them. The reason you killed the pioneer sub was probly because the enclosure was tuned so high and you were trying to get the sub to play lower then the tuning frequency which will cause the sub to unload and basicly just fry it. by the sounds of things you have just had a bad experience with ported enclosures,i can garentee you that a well designed and built ported enclosure will destroy any sealed enclosure for clarity and over all volume. also what you said about the ported enclosure not delivering the low end bass you wanted would be entirely down to bad tuning.what did you tune the one you built to? id work it out for you but you havnt given the length of the port as far as i can see just the port width. you can pick up some excelent subs for between the 250 - 400 price range so keeping below the $600 figure shouldnt be a problem. you shouldnt have any problem with a part of the system not being able to keep up with each other.its all down to the tuning,unless of course the system is really missmatched and there are huge differences in amplifier power. "Trust me, goto a professional" this is why i was asking where about your located. your more then welcome to come watch me design and build an enclosure and ask as many questions as you want along the way to do with tuning and what not. there are a few people on this fourm that have had experience with my box designs and tuning setups that i have done for them so if you would like to hear from some people with first hand experience im sure they will chime in when they see this.

sounds like your in need of a professional to tune your system mate,where abouts are you located? Trying to match wattage ratings between speakers and subwoofers is usless. every speaker will have its own unique sensitivity rating. for starters the range of subs you have tryed are very entry level units and obveiously not keeping up with your demands on them. as will any speaker or sub if you hear any hint of distortion or colouring of the sound that is not normally there turn it down! i would suggest upgrading to the next model up from what you have tryed,so something like the TSW307D2.It will handel 400 WRMS and is a superior sub over all. I garentee you that this sub in the right enclosure will be more then enough for you. which brings me to my next question for you. what enclosure have you been using your previous subs in? a small sealed enclosure about 50 or so liters im guesing as thats what most of them come with in the deals you get from most car audio places. i have designed many systems using the older model TSW306C and the new model TWS307D2 and just about all of thos systems i have built the customer a ported enclosure tuned for the sub and the results have been more then enough volume and clarity with alot more head room and alot less stress on the sub over all alowing it to be pushed further if need be. keep in mind that a sub enclosure can make or break the performance of the sub. and finally the answer to your question, it is better to have more power on tap then not enough.pushing an amp too far and pushing it into cliping (distortion) will do far worse damage. as with all music it will vary in volume and the volume of different instroments will vary so it is just something you need to be wary of,turn the volume down at the end of song before it changes to the next.

The result of a slow day at work....... How_To_Speak_New_Zillund.pdf

between me and sapphire we have some pritty extensive experience with fiberglassing. modifying an existing bar is going to be MUCH cheeper and easier then trying to mould one from scratch. where abouts are you located mate?

the guy with the yellow 33 is a mate of mine,he works in ether super cheap or the other car store at the other end of that lot of shops,cant remeber which one.

haha was that you dave that parked in the shopping center car park with us lol?