gotRICE?

Well they are pretty large bolts, so im guessing your using a 1/2" Socket set, so do it up as tight with the ratchet as you allow yourself (i hate straining the ratchet), then put the breaker bar on and just tweak it (without excessive force) untill it doesnt tweak anymore. Basically put your hand on the socket over the nut/bolt, hold the breaker at the end and pull it towards you till its difficult, reposition the socket again, and do it again. You'l get the feel of it.

And if you live in New Zealand then the JJR one almost equates to the cost of a Blitz LM with the rediculous shipping costs you Aussies throw at us Plus exchange rate pwnage. And again of course ++ Respect

At a guess, thats up to the individual, he just builds the radiator I have heard from a few people that have gone to AM radiators with electric fans that they have had overheating issues. That clutch fan and shroud is dam efficient! Takes forever to get to operating temp when bleeding the system. Ha.

Indeed. Pretty much anything other than engine/g-box just needs to be "Tight"

I think hes talking about just the Tein springs on OEM shocks, not the complete coil over setup. But goot to hear more positive comments on the Tein coilovers, as thats what im planning on getting one day.

Im installing some in my R33 this weekend (wanted coilovers but i got them brand new for a set of batty wheels) so untill i can afford coilovers, they will suffice. Will let you know how thy go, with before/after pics.

Do a quick search for "squeaky R33" and you will quickly realise you can spend hundreds of dollars trying to fix it, backing plates or not. It sucks, but it seems to be luck of the draw to stop them squeaking. I know i spent alot of $ trying to fix it. In the end i went back to OEM Nissan Pads and it went away. Loose a bit of brake feel but the squeak drove me crazy with my Ferodo's. A brand new backing plate kit for both sides isnt cheap. I cant remember how much, but when i aksed i just laughed at the dealer and walked out. Try hunting one down online, 2nd hand. Good luck!

Theres no way the cop could know it wasnt factory.. and ill have an R34 side mount for sale in a week or two, going cheap

The Apexi sounds good. You dont need to cut up a flash exhaust system and is easy to open up when you want. (also simple to remove) I find that in my 33 (3" turbo-back, split dump/front, HKS Silent Power) is louder at idle, so keping the revs constant around 3200rpm its silent. Its a funny one, i dont know about others with the same exhaust, but the higher the revs the quieter it gets.

Yah i see what you mean. Maybe i got lucky with mine, as a far as i could see the flanges mated up pretty well. And also, the $250, i agree totally, when i bought it, it was more of a trial for the price. As i was going to go for the HKS split one, and the HKS front pipe. But seeing as the JJR one cost less (shipped to NZ) than the HKS front pipe did alone, not to mention shipping AND the cost of the HKS dump, i thought it was worth the gamble. And in my case, it paid off

I have one of the JJR split dumps and it bolted up perfectly. Maybe someone fudged it up in manufacturing. Only problem i had was one of the turbo flange bolts is rather teedious to do up. Takes some thinking to even get it on. Ha. Other than that its great.

But i like the Tuna here. Dont forget to tighten your green washers or you checkerplate floorpan will fall out when there is danger to the manifold.

Im not quite sure why your mad at me, i just asked a question. I didnt critisize your boost controller. Grow up will you. And im pretty sure the Heat Treatments GTR was built in NZ.

Eclipse? As in the Mitsi? I thought they were FWD?

If you just got a just jap split dump/front, then isnt your factory pipe going to be coming out too? Just leave it in till you take the stock one out. Makes life simple!

Is there any particular reason why you think it was rigged? Im interested! Can you supply and results of your test? Would you agree with me, that the fact that it cloggs up fast is because its actually doing its job? The whole point of the filter is to catch the particles of dust, so if its clogging then its doing it well! Makes sence to me! Otherwise, where is the dust etc going on the other filters?

You probly sucked up a road cone or small child with that HKS filter, hence the poor performance Here, check this page out. http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/ Cant argue the facts Personally this would be the deciding factor to my purchase, hence the fact i DO have an Apexi filter now. In the end the choice is yours. But when your supposed to replace the HKS one every few thousand miles, compared to a zero maintenence Apexi (the occasional blow out with compressed air wouldnt hurt), i know where i stand!

Best way to check is to do a before and after dyno. I never did on my R33, but after a full 3" split dump, decat and HKS catback, and R34 side mount, the dyno boost reading was showing 11.2psi on stock solenoid. No bleed valves or anything. Will be doing FMIC when i get back from the states so would be interesting to see if i get an increase too. Suck it up, dyno before and after and let us all know

So if theres no spark, whats creating the "power" stroke other than the iniertia of the previous stroke with the spark? Im guessing that the inconsistant balance in the power/cut/power stroking (lol) is what causes conrods etc to bend.. Just throwing an idea out there.

Speaks for itself really doesnt it? A Night drive... somewhere in the middle of it? he is meaning a drive somewhere very dark

For those that asked, heres the wire, ignore the red circle, was for another thread The yellow line is where i extended my wire to earth, there was a nice bare nut under the guard there. Thought it as easy as anywhere. Stuck a crimp eye on the end, and put a bolt in it. Done! EDIT: Earth the BLACK wire! Leave the white one be. (hey thought id mention it, you just never know!)

340 @ 213rwkw. Sound right? The way the dyno i used is set up i get an NM reading of 1300++! But you need to divide that number by your final drive, being 4.1, giving you the "proper" NM reading. EDIT, this is a hub dyno too. Not sure how much diff that makes.

I bet your kicking yourself! Im looking at one for my R33, and they seem to be around the $1270-$1290NZD mark, shipped, so far with quotes from Nengun and Greenline. (and to make my post more Aussie friendly, about $1080AUD ) Anywhere else i could look? They are probly the cheapest.. but hey, cant hurt to shop.

In regards to "planning in advance" Why plan ahead, spend more than your budgeting for, when you have no specific goals and dont actually have the desire to go any further after spending the mentioned $1000? So do what the gurus suggest. The dump pipe, and the SAFC + tune. Your wallet will thank you for it at the pump Plus it will drive alot nicer. Im pretty confident you'l notice the difference. I noticed a huge top end difference after fitting my split front/dump and 34SMIC. Good luck!

Yeah seems to do it alot with stock ECU with all the bolt ons. WHen your paying $2L for petrol then its only cool the 1st few times