Kranker

Gotta let us know what you want out of a turbo dude, do u want a monster or a nice little increase. The way so go for a bolt on seems to be a GT-RS or a garret gt2871r-10 these little fellas come highly reccomended form peeps in the know. But thats a pretty tiny budget uve got there <$1k and turbo upgrade is kinda a recipe for disaster, keep saving, so you can afford all the required ancillaries This will prob get close because this question gets asked like 10 times a week, so look at the dyno thread and see what works, then price it up on nengun or greenline, or call a workshop that u want to use and get a quote. but ill tell u now, $1k is peanuts, all u can prob afford with that is a highflowed standard turbo with steel wheels.

That vid made me want to play GT5 more than ever before...oh and the R35 was nice aswell...

haha poor guy...but ask a silly question...get silly answers

there is no "H" in camber.... go to ur local suspension/tyre place and see if a wheel alignment cant fix it before you look into buying new components

yep, pretty sure .5mm over is the way to go for a head gasket but im no engine builder, im sure someone with more experience will correct me if im wrong CC ur head, then work out the CR with a 1mm gasket, then a 1.1mm so on and so forth, then you can work out which gasket you want to use, and/or how much the head needs to be shaved

They sound pretty similar dude....both straight 6's with similar dimensions...the only diffences you would hear would be caused by exhaust design, not by the engines themselves They are a sturdier than an RB25, but in my opinion the difference isnt big enough to warrant a swap. For the cost of the engine swap and the engine you could build a forged rb25 that will punch just as hard if not harder than a factory 1J. Saying that 1J's do have a nice head, think yamaha designed if i remember correctly. Ive heard of people strapping singles to these things and with appropriate support mods running 4-500hp...but look in the dyno thread, a built RB25 can also make similar power. Only real reason I can see for swapping your RB25 for a 1J would be if you destroyed ur current engine and had a cheap 1J available

great result witht he GT4094R rockabliiy! I keep changing my mind on what i want to build, here is my thought process over the last year: mild 2.6 - modded 2.6 - 3.0 with low mounts - 3.0 with neo head with medium-big single So my question to you is: Why did you end up going for the GT4094R instead of the GT40R (GT4088R)? And are you happy with the response compared to ur old GT35R?

well what ever it is (and ive got a bit of an idea what it could be if Dirt is involved) you need to post the obligatry anti-lag flames out the exhaust video once uve got it all working haha but seriously hope it all goes well, im keen to see how she tunes up, differences you notice, and how all those new features work

^ WOW! ...that is all i can say

RB20DET specs are: in: 240deg, 7.8mm ex: 240deg 7.8mm RB25DE (R32): in: 240deg 7.8mm ex: 232deg 7.3mm RB25DE (R33): in: 240deg 7.8mm ex: 240deg 7.8mm RB25DE (neo): in: 236deg 8.4mm ex: 232deg 6.9mm wasnt sure which RB25 you meant so i thought id post up all 3, got the specs from the RB30 guide on the forum So going by this RB20DET's are prob the way to go

I really dont think you can accuratley compare cylinder compression with compression ratio. The compression ratio is just the ratio of the volume of the combustion chamber at BDC to the volume of comb chamber at TDC, its just maths, not anything to do with psi...correct me if im wrong Doesnt take into account loosely toleranced pistons, rings etc,blow by, or long duration cams with big overlap which will all reduce the actual compression of the engine But i guess that if engine A and engine B, were built to the same tolerances, and were up to the same temperature, with the cams cams etc, but A was 9:1 and B was 8:1 then cylinder compression should be higher in engine A So there can be a relation but its not a guarantee take a look at http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/comrat.htm they have a table from the bosch automotive handbook, that relates CR to compression, going by that you could have anything from 6.8-7.8:1, thats a pretty big range, but still supports ur guess that your compression ration is in the high 7's hope you work it out mate

I know its a bit of a silly topic...still good for a laugh Surely a car like Mark and Russ's R32 has been around some of the V8 supercar tracks, how do those times compare?

Go for it dude Its not 100% to my taste but it would be quite a site to behold Suicide doors should stop them hitting the wide body front guards

Only way I see hydrogen having anything to do with powering a car is in hydrogen combustion engines You go to the servo, fill up on hydrogen, and ur internal combustion works in much the same way as a petrol powered internal combustion engine, only it burns hydrogen Using it as an additive to petrol combustion is waste of time and effort Bring on proper hydrogen combustion though, best future fuel in my opinion Us rev heads still have an engine that sounds and behaves like an engine shoud, not an electric appliance, and the hippies get a reduction in emissions

Yeh that Top Secret bar isnt bad, quite close to Z-tune as you said Ive seen lots of R34s from Japan that go for that kit But for me the front is too flat, needs a bit more of a curve in it.

As far as im aware the GT2871R -10s or HKS GT-RS's (pretty much the same thing) are the biggest bolt on lowmount twins

cant believe im actually replying....but BOV's dont "flutter" the "choof", like a sneeze That flutter sound is caused by compressor surge, i.e. BOV isnt doing its job of flowing boost when the throttle is shut, and the air pushing its way back into the compressor You cant try removing ur BOV and blanking it off

RusH sorry dude but im as sure as is humanly possible that white bumper that you said wasnt top secret, and was a z-tune copy, is actually a Top Secret like the first guy said The pic of the gold TS R34 GTR u posted is sporting the Top Secret GTR bumper, while the white one is the Top Secret GTT bumper....not a ztune Top secret make two different bumpers, one for the GTT and one for the GTR. It gets condusing becase other companies offer bumpers in the GTR style that fit the GTT.

Your first port of call should be the RB25 dyno thread, have a browse and see what power people are making with what modifications. In your post some key words are "most boost" "stock" "RB25", type those in the search engine and see what comes up.

There is still plenty of airflow, it wont be a cold air ram intake, but it wont be any worse than it is now. Anyway air in the engine bay around ur pods is only really hot when the car is stationary When ur moving the air is constantly being pushed out and replaced with cooler external air. My bet is it wont make a difference, except for getting the cops off ur back about having exposed pods post up plenty of pics of ur final airbox

illegal for road use...well im 99% sure its illegal Cant be arsed looking up the rule book, but an exhaust has to come out a certrain distance after the rear wheels...or something like that also have to have a look underneath ur car, see if there is actually room to accomodate that setup edit: bored with uni work...its ur lucky day 10 EXHAUST OUTLETS 10.1 Enclosed LE vehicles, and MA, MB or MC vehicles must meet the following requirements: 10.1.1 the exhaust outlet must extend at least 40 mm beyond the furthermost outboard or rearmost joint of the floor pan which is not continuously welded or permanently sealed which could permit direct access of exhaust gases to the passenger compartment, but not beyond the perimeter of the vehicle when viewed in plan; 10.1.2 the exhaust outlet, if to the side of the vehicle, must discharge to the right hand side of the vehicle and downwards at an angle to the horizontal of not less than 15 degrees and not more than 45 degrees; and 10.1.3 the exhaust outlet, if to the rear of the vehicle must discharge at not more than 10 degrees above or 45 degrees below the horizontal.

R34 > R32 > R33 I personally dont include the R35 in the comparisson as it is a completely different car, only thing it has in common is the name of the ATTESSA system But in stock form, or even mildly modded, the R35 is obviously technically the best

4wd does put alot more stress through the gearbox, but people tend to break 3rd gear, and for most cars traction at 3rd gear speeds isnt usually a problem. Ive got a feelling that there was an actual design problem with the allignment of 3rd gear, selector and gear dont match up 100% or something similar...dont qoute me. So smashing the box through the gears tend to kill it. Try and avoid very hard and fast changes into 3rd gear, both from 4th and from 2nd, and there is a fair chance she'll hold together. If it does break id be looking at aa PPG or OS Giken gear set, they dont cost the world and from what ive read are pretty tough stuff

Not trying to be a smart arse but just plugging in a power fc wont fix ur problems... however a properly tuned and mapped PFC would suit ur setup very well. 1) idle will be as good as you make it, its in the tune 2) Same as above, a crap tune is a crap tune irrespective of the model of ecu, people get great results and great everyday drivability with AFM Power FCs and MAP D-Jetro FCs 3) You can have what ever a/f ratio you want at cruise 4) I think (not 100%) that only the FC Pro got launch control, so the D-J wont have it Ive been following your build a bit and if im not wrong, ur currently using a pre-tuned replacement ECU A Power FC D-J is not pre tuned, you cant drive ur car until you have the ecu properly set up. A regular PFC comes with a kind of base map, the D-J does not, it has to be mapped from scratch. If ur not happy with ur tuner time to find another Oh and dont dyno ur car in 5th do it in 4th, closest to 1:1 ratio Look at paulr33's PFC faq has loads of info on there will answer all ur questions http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#12

It was fine, not great, just fine, As long as SBS shows both the UK and the AUS topgear, not just the AUS version, im not going to complain They've got a few bugs to iron out but just remember that fat bastard on early top gear, he was a joke, all three presenters are better than him. Give it time, its better than most crap on TV