Kranker

search, plenty of people have asked the same question And no, you need GTR fenders, bonnet, bonnet hinges....prob more that ive missed

Get a renault clio sport, its almost a nissan (renault-nissan alliance) haha and its a million times better than a micra.

^^^ +1 Bob As they are i, would probably go the Soarer, but not at that price. But if you were comparing that Soarer with a GTT then i would say go for the R34 A '92 Soarer is getting long in the tooth (read: 16 year old car) but will definatley be the faster of the two. And remember, even though Toyotas are reliable, the interior and lots of other parts will be getting a bit worn out. As i tell every1 who asks which car they should buy, go out and drive them both.

Both pretty similar in spec from the looks of things, as in both have exhaust, 'cooler and some type of ecu and some suspension mods. So not much in it as far as difference in mods. Niether apear to be seriously worked on. Go drive them both, and get both inspected by a mechanic you trust, then make a descision. All we can do is say if the mods are good or not. And its never a good idea to pick one car over another just because it has more modifications. Compare the overall cars, condition of paint, interior, engine health, ride quality, gearbox etc, then make ur choice. On appearances alone though i'd lean towards the Black one

Dont think its do luck, its a nismo z-tune bodykit with a do luck spoiler

Im with ya Ban them Maybe a nicer way to do it without offeding the people who ask these questions is to make a sitcky have two categories GTR and GTST/GTT and for each category have power in 50kw intervals and the rough time on street tyres for each car, (not a superquick time, but what youd expect an average driver to do) e.g. GTR 300awkw 12 @ 110mph GTT 300rwkw 12.5 @ 110mph Gives people something to aim for atleast

How long does it take some one who knows what they are doing to remove the front driveshafts by the way?

....a big back seat has lots of other good uses I prefer the 4 door, there is no performance differeance, get which ever suits you 2 door style or 4 door practicality, beauty of a r32/3/4 us you can choose

Have a browse of the rb25 dyno thread and see what works for people with ur turbo http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t55845.html My guess though...my research has told me to match cams, so both inlet and exhaust same cam, but some say you should use a more aggressive cam on the exhaust side, to compensate for poorer gas flow. something around a 250-260 duration and lots of lift would probably be good. But as i said check out the dyno thread, its the best place to findout what people find works and doesnt work.

High or low mount tends the be directly caused by the need to have more room. i.e. a large turbo physically wont fit as a low mount. Low mount = shorter exhaust manilfold pipes, shorter induction pipes, so better response (usualls also a smaller turbo) High mount = longer exhaust manilfold pipes, longer/more induction piping, less response, but you can fit a much larger turbo Basically decide on what the goals are for your engine, decide on what turbo (and manifold) and that will tell you if you need to go high mount, or if you can keep the low mount configuration.

Unless hes a car dealer i doubt there is any warranty. But if you did buy it from a dealer then there is a good chance it is covered by a warranty, meaning you pay $0. If its a private sale and he just happens to be a mechanic, then ur kinda on your own, your probably lucky he agreed to pay for half of your costs. And a mechanic who works on skylines and has never encountered a broken pistion....please. Lots of things can cause an engine to knock, and knock can shatter pistons, its not exactly a super rare problem. If the guy you bought it from is going go fix it, what has he quoted you? He should be the first guy you ask about costs. If it doesnt fit with what the guys have said above, then its time to get suss. best of luck mate, hope it all works out and you get back to enjoying ur new R33

Must work in a simliar way to a g-tech, accuracy will depend on the quality of the accelerometer in the i-phone. And a g-tech is accurate to aboutn 1/10 of a second they say. Even if it isnt accurate (but it should be ok), it should be consistant, if you get what i mean. So good for comparing before and after. But i dont find the horsepower tool on my g-tech very useful, so i doubt you will on ur iphone. Very nice little program...you essentially get a basic g-tech for a fraction of the price, post ur times up

Id just go with what some of the guys who have built some fairly serious GTRs have reccomended i.e. Duncan said JJRs I personally wouldnt put part on my car that i havnt had someone reccomend, and I have never heard of GKTECH, doesnt mean they are crap though They look ok, auzzie company, and they use them on their own engine. Could be worth looking into what material they are made from, it doesnt say on their site. Good price though, might be worth a try...

Stock internals dont matter at all. Like some of the guys said above, cheap (but not crappy) cam gears are a cost effective mod even at low levels of mods on a gtr, but make sure you get the car tuned and the cams dialed in otherwise no gains.

R34 is not on the wall, they only drove the R34 for a used car review, so no lap time either....sadly R35 will be cool i think, mainly due to all the hype its been recieving, but no chance of sub-zero (where it really belongs)

Before buying my car (alfa 156) i test drove a fair number of the cars on SEB88Y's list Best drive hands down was the Clio Sport, and if i didnt need a 4 door car I probably would have bought one. the DC2 type R came a clost 2nd, but not as comfy as the clio. However your probably dont want to know what the best car is for a learner, you want to own a Skyline, and i know why. So im my opinion buy ur R33 GTS, you will love it, and it may not be technicaly the best P plater car, but that doesnt really matter, it looks and sounds like a skyline and at the end of the day thats what you really want. When your off your Ps (or better yet wait till ur 25 so you can actually afford ensurance for a turbo car) get something nice, in the mean time youll be happy with a non turbo 33....just dont get an auto.

Yep basically right, you car uses power to spin the gearbox, flywheel, driveshafts, wheels etc. RwKw is the power that actually gets to the ground. So everyone here on the forums uses rwkw, its easier to measure.

4 door R34 GT Four Custom Z-tune style wide bodykit, jet black, tan leather interior, light weight 5 spoke, black 19 inch deep dish rims all round. Fully counterbalanced 2.8L RB26 motor (one of the high end jap kits) with a 11k rpm limit, lumpy cams, GTRS turbs, 450kw at wheels AMG/M5/RS6 eater

At $300 is it even worth the risk, Id say get a new one.

People think its "safer" to do 80km/h in the fast lane, some extended family member come to mind.... How is it safe when something your doing, is causing the 5 cars behind you, to want to kill you. (who are trying to do the right thing and use the overtaking (right) lane for... now this may surprise people...overtaking) They cause otherwise safe drivers to get pissed off, and drive unsafley = dangerous. You dont sit in the outside lane at 100, you sit in the left lanes at the speed limit. Its not complex. If you are underconfident and cant do 100 or 110 maybe you shouldnt be behind the wheel of a car, its a basic road skill to be able to controll a car at highway speed. A message to the Volvo, X5, ML, camry, 626, corolla, vecrta etc. drivers of this country keep out of the overtaking lanes. Bring on some of those laws where you fined for not going the correct lane speed. There is not a single car on the Aussie market which wont sit on 120km/h on the highway all day long, do it, i promise you wont spontaneously combust.

Im interested in this aswell, and have been researching for well over a year. Front bar: No probs, same as a coupe (not GTR though, you need gtr fenders, bonnet and bonnet hinges to fit gtr style bumpers) Side skirts: Couple of options, east bear, crossfactors and uras do side skirts for the 4door, and the wheel base is the same as the coupe so maybe you can mod coupe skirt to fit, not sure... Rear bar: Same brands as side skirts, maybe modifications will allow you to fit coupe parts, again not sure...

OP he said he doesnt want to look like a boy racer ie. no baby jap sport bikes, no vrf's, cbr's, baby nijas etc. As Prank said, prob best learner bike is the Honda VTR250, ive ridden my mates vtr a couple of times, nice little bike. It even looks a bit like a little Duc monster. As for safety, its a known quantity, so im not going to crap on about avoiding acidents, u get hit you die, but u crash ur skyline at speed you die aswell. Im my opinion the biggest safety problem isnt the rider, its the other drivers on the road. If you want the fastest learner legal bike then in 90% sure thats the Honda VFR400, or is it the RVF400, both are very similar except one is learner legal...but prob not a wisest of choices for a learner though. Enjoy ur bike, and be careful

Well done mate, great time on hard suspension! When you run (thats right, WHEN, not IF) a 10, will you have to fit a roll cage? Or will you just take your 10sec slip and run

A bit of practice in another manual wouldnt hurt in the mean time. Could be interesting learning how to use a clutch and a gear stick for the first time with a 206kw turbo 6 infront of you. Get the manual, autos are for the weak, but practice driving a manual in a less powerful car so u dont kill urself or someone else. Good luck with the purchase, and maybe have a look at the cost of insurance aswell....its the only reason im not driving a turbo skyline.

Has it got a madmax style supercharger clutch??? haha Would love to drive one of these new wave of forced fed falcodores, they are real torque monsters. and yogibear pretty sure digital cameras werent around in the 60's, and the cameras that they did have took rather good quality pictures....