Kranker

uve got one hell of a pair on ya legend

Not 100% sure what ur asking... Do you want to "manualise" ur existing auto (tiptronic) gearbox? or Do you want to replace the gearbox with a manual transmission? Two different things If ur happy with the tiptronic dont change a thing.

if your friend has a dyno should be able to find your own settings, these aren't magic numbers, people play with them on the dyno and see what works you should do the same you dont dial in the cams and have a run, then think, ok that diddnt work, ill try another completely different one. You start at ur current timing, adjust a degree or two, then have a run, then adjust and run etc. Ull find the point where it makes the best power. only reason why you would want some timing settings that have worked on other cars would be if you didnt have access to a dyno hope the tuning goes well, post up a dyno result when ur done, before and after would be nice

Yeh im with KISIN ^^ Would like to know a bit more about the Vipec ...prob shouldnt hijack though, deserves its own thread Can the avid enthusiast tune and tweak them himself (much like a PFC) from home, or are they closer to the HKS f con which needs a usb thingo and a trained tuner? From what ive read they look like a good option instead of a Power FC...

Been looking at this lately aswell, as im leaning towards a home built RB26/30 instead of a straight Rb26 Lost of guys in the UK have done alot of research and testing on turbos for 3.0l RBs (one dude has tried like 5 different turbo setups...cash to burn) and there is loads of info on both the SAU RB30 dyno sticky and on the UK GTR forum. But from what ive gathered in my research lately, ill give you sorta both ends of the power spectrums for both setups... Most of the local boys seem to like using singles, with a GT30R as a minimum (350+rwkw) and serious cars use hardware like GT42Rs and T51Rs (600+rwkw). But twins could still be an option. Garrett -5s are probably the minimum and i think would spool nice and quickly (350+rwkw) and on the other end the scale a highmount pair of Garrett GT3071s would make for a wild ride (600+rwkw). You need to set some firm goals, both for power and responsiveness. What will the car be used for etc. And then use all the resources to work out what the best setup will be for you. Hope that gets you started

Depends on what state ur in, in SA front windows cant be less than 75%, but NSW (from memory) is 35%. Even at 35% its still easy to see out of the car, not really even an issue. I get mine as dark as legally possible, but you could always go darker. My uncle has a new ML350, the back windows on that are impossible to see into, pitch black, however they are clear as day to see out of (even at night) so my 2c, go as dark as you can

BLACK!...like my soul

i think it will look kinda silly, Z-tune guards are well sexy, i think wider than even GTR fenders however, the rear guards on the 4door are the narrowest of all the R34 models, so you will have these wide front guards and a narrow rear. ...still... up to you, the front of your car will look mean. why not bolt up a z-tune front bumper to z-tune guards? that way ull know it will fit. Or if you want to use the front bar uve got now, just buy regular GTR guards

http://www.cross-factory.com/ use bablefish to transate

was just wondering what fuel you were running on? 98 or race fuel? sorry if its been mentioned above...had a look and i couldnt see it anywhere

hey if Mercedes can call their car an AMG 6.3 when really its only 6208cc, then he can call his a 2.7

A/T is an auto transmission problem, doesnt really narrow it down though. Do a search http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ht-t165620.html

^ Presume you workout the displacement of a dome piston (roughly anyway) by pressing it into some kind of clay then measuring the cc of the impression. Might not be spot on but should be close is done carefully

Ill start by saying listen to the guys who've built them moreso that dreamers like me who are still planning and saving haha. But ive done a bit of research on the whole subject Depends 100% on application and driving style I want to keep my engine as revvy and true to the original formula as possible, so im planning a overbored built motor, with standard stroke, so something around 268x cc. If i had the cash (im an automotive engineering student = no cash) id be looking at one of the fully counterbalanced jap stroker kits so 2.6 or 2.7. Anything bigger, HKS 2.8, that magnificent aussie made 2.9 that ive seen of the forums, or the OS Giken 3.0 are fantastic for grunt but ...i dunno...not quite what i want, dont know why. I like wringing my engines out, always rowing throught the gears. If you dont maybe a 2.8+ is the way to go. I think its a good idea to have a shortlist of bottomends that you would be happy with, and be on the lookout for the best price/deal.

I dont think any 'rex gearboxes have ever been solid compared to RB25/26 boxes. They arent complete rubbish, they just dont stand up to harsh launches and changes very well. If you drive reasonably carefully shouldn't break without some abuse. If you're looking for fuel consumpiton, then none of the above, but who really cares about fuel consumption If it was me, id get the WRX, ive normally got 3 or 4 people in my car regularly, so a 2 door is out of the question. If ur looking for a good value car, that is heaps of fun, pretty quick and relativley easy to modify...get the 180!

Dont know if this helps but in an old issue of SPEED magazine (prob the best mag in recent memory), they compared an R34 GTR with a 911 Turbo The point is, the GTR belonged to a Basketballer, guy named Paul Rogers, and he is 7 foot tall. He fits in his stock R34 GTR with "a comfortable squeeze" Article goes on to say, he had a R33, and had to have the seat rails moved back 5 cm So maybe the best option for ur mate is an R34. Ive driven R32, R33 and R34 GTS-T/GTT, and an R32 GTR (im a test drive whore). Im 6 foot, hardly tall these days, and have been comfortable in all 3, but found the R34 to be the roomiest. If he has his heart set on a 33 or 32, shouldnt be too big a deal to have the rails moved back an appropriate distance. Hope that helps

Def normal, im budgeting over $1000 for the bodykit alone (front, side, rear, and spoiler), and $500 for a paint is a good price. Something a bit special like a full crossfactory or eastbear kit could be getting up over $2000 easy, without painting Even a cheaper kit from Carmate et al. are gonna be $300 front, $300 sides, $300 rear, maybe a little discount if you buy all at the same time...Still $900

There isnt usually anything in an intake that can "tick" (its essentailly a pipe) However some injectors are noisy and can make a "ticking" noise best suggestion, take it back the the guy who tuned it on the dyno and get him to diagnose whats going on.

Well Done! Love the body kit, and as others have said the graphics are superb! Very tastefully done, and clearly a well thought out build I just wish that Impul made that bodykit (read: side skirts and rear bumper, 'coz the front will fit) for the 4 door R34, ah well, may have to buy one and go nuts on it with a hacksaw and some stickytape and see if i cant make it fit Just a quick question, what wheels are they? V-nice, how big aswell? Hope you find ur lost Kw's, they'll be hiding around in there somewhere.

Maybe im missing something, but i cant find anything for the R34 on the vertex site Anyone know where i can find a pic

GT2860-10s dont exist, If you mean GT2871R -10 (and most people do) then these are some decent sized turbs they are bigger than the 2860-5 (rough: 2530's) and are about the same as HKS GT-RS's These are probably a bit big for a streetable 2.6, and ull almost definatley want forged rods and pistons Do a search and see what the guys who run GT-RS's on 2.6l motors have to say, you might be happy with less low down power and more rush up top.

Pick up one of these, and use it along with ur "engery polariser", a "vortex" air intake, and an "electric supercharger" and u've gotta be making an extra 75bhp, gauranteed...

Dont think that a Getrag 6 speed (r34 'box) is really the answer, if ur breaking GTR 5 spds, then ull prob break the Getrag 6 speed If i had one and it broke, id be looking at the OS Giken gearsets, either the 1-3 or 1-5, or go Aussie made and go for a PPG gearset.

GT-V is essentially a non turbo R34, rear wheel drive coupe but it came with GTT suspension and brakes (and LSD i think) So it runs the RB25DE NEO, like a regular 25GT but has the larger brakes and "more sporting" suspension off of the turbo. I think that there were even a couple that came from the factory in bayside blue. Put it this way if you had a choice between an R34 25GT and a GT-V and both were the same price, condition and km, then id choose the GT-V, and yes, ive driven them both back to back. Hope that helps edit: haha just looked at the guys ad, it says everything i just spent the last 5 mins typing, that was a wase of my time

Nice car, audi S4 on a budget they have a luuuverly interior Had a look at its little brother the V6 4motion, before we bought the MPS 6, if the R36 was available then it may have changed things..... time for a test drive me-thinks.