Kranker

yeh i know, just illustrating the point that its a 6 cyl car, and u need 6 cc per hp just happend to turn out that way, the rule works for V8 and 4s aswell, then you would be dividing by 8 or 4, then mult by 6

rule ive heard for minimum injector size is: divide engine hp (rough figure) by no. of cylinders to get hp per cyl, and you need 5-6 cc fuel per hp so for you say you want about 400bhp 400hp/6 = 6.667 x 6 = 400cc, plus fudge factor = 500cc injectors but most of the stuff ive read says its better to go bigger, a good tune should iron out the problem of using oversize injectors, plus it gives u room to make more power with out buying another set of injectors

in before the lock....and cant we have some kind of a max new thread rule for new members? edit: its great you want to learn more about how cars and performance modifications work, but lots of the questions you are asking have been answered time and time agian. if you cant find the answer by searching the forum, (sometimes it can be hard to find old topics), then ask your question. I know that a skyline related question pops into my head 3-4 times a day, and 9 times outa 10, ill use a few different search term and find someone else who has asked the same thing. if u still cant workout a definate answer then post up a topic, by all means

yep plazmamans comes as a kit (for the neo head anyway, thats all ive been looking at) about $1.3k, for plenum and t/b, uses standard cables and sensors etc. (their website is pretty good, fair bit of info on their) always prefer buying aussie made when its appropriate

if you want a bit more response maybe look at a GT2871R-10 (GT-RS equiv) or more room for later improvement maybe a GT3071R (ive only got my head round the Garrett and HKS ranges so cant comment on other brands) from what you can see, support mods are prettymuch a known quantity. turbo choice is the really hard part

see... it actually looks ok on that sileighty, but on any of the others... its a no from me

wait until you upgrade your plenum, then buy a throttle body that is the apporpirate/reccomended size. the plenum will probably come with a throttle body, alot of manufactures sell them as a kit with all the required ancillaries.

doesnt the R34 run steel wheels from the factory? if they arent ceramic, and they will hold together at this pressure, ur still talking about wringing dam near 18psi out of tiny stock turbs, not sure how efficient they are at this boost...could be fine...but worth finding out also just adding more boost without a retune wont yield the best results, look for some aftermarket management, even a piggyback ecu is a good option if you only want mild mods uve spent money on a nice car, dont risk doing damage by increasing power/boost without making the appropriate support mods

i like it, harks back to its grandaddy 240Z

fair few people are running them on their RB30s with good results (have a browse of the RB30 dyno thread if you want), so it shouldnt be too small might be a touch laggier on a 2.5 than on the 3.0l. but it should make 280rwkw fairly easily. So i wouldnt worry about it being to small, but you might find something that would make 280rwkw and be more responsive (GT30R). but if its at a good price how can you resist?

yeh if your tractive effort is greater than tractive resistance at a given road speed, then you have acceleration comparing dyno results has always been a bit of a pissing contest. its a brilliant tuning tool, but you just keep hearing about fudged results. if someone dynos their car in 3rd and every1 else is doing it in 4th, then the first dude's tractive effort will be greater. doesnt necessarily mean hes making more torque at the engine. but this often isnt explained by the dyno operator guilt-toy has is right, if you want to compare the power of two cars power (actually power/weight), trap speed is the way to go. if its good enought for the worlds fastest drag cars, then its good enough for u and me.

and proengines http://proengines.com.au/

from the rb30 guide Rb30e bottom end with rb25 (not neo) gives ~8.2:1 comp ratio

Ive got a feeling that you will still get pulled up because as far as the police and government are concerned ur car is still a GTT, and im sure in their database it will come up as a turbo when they run ur plates. So id be looking into the legalities of it all before planning the build (or is it an un-build???) Otherwise i think kids would be trying all kinds of crazy "stealth" remote mounted hidden turbo conversions on their cars. But if im wrong, and it would be P legal and you want an interesting project go for it.

how does it handle?... too much body roll? no grip? understeer? oversteer? poor steering feel? etc. the e30 handles quite nicely from the factory, i almost bought one a few years back, (i presume ur talking about an e30 with an rb20 in the front), so you may have just set the car up too stiff, but its hard to know whats wrong without you going into more detail about how the car currently handles.

No they never built one from the factory Autech built some 4 door R33 GT-Rs if i remember correctly, but no R34s, and these were made in very limited numbers, so are very rare. Closest thing ull find is probably an ENR34 sedan, its got a very similar drivetrain to the R33 GTR (5 spd, with attessa and hicas) and runs the RB25DE neo engine, so basically its non turbo but has awd Its not really a performance car, soft suspension, smaller brakes, 147kw. (its what im lookin to buy in the near future) However engine swaps arent out of the question, and if you had the mechaical skills, money and knowledge you could essentially build a 4 door r34 gtr by swapping ur Neo for an RB26 and fitting suitably upgraded suspension and brakes etc. Top Secret Japan have built one

which cad program do u use shanef?? i do a bit of stuff with uni work in pro engineer wildfire

the build is 1/2 the fun for me haha

ive been trying to quit for ages, that shit is addictive

This forum is 100x better than most, lost of very knowledgeable people, and lots of other people who have learnt a great deal from the aforementioned people, and try to pass on that knowledge as best they can most posters are clear if they are 100% sure on an answer or if they are just having an educated guess, do with the advice what you will its not hard to pick an answer from a seasoned engine builder, an engineer, a person with some idea, or an idiot my only problem (other than people not searching and researching for themselves) is people posting topics like "help urgent" or "big problem" how the hell are people supposed to look into these topics in a month or two while searching for an answer to their problem. people search for, things like "fuel pump" "afr" "ignition brakedown" not "help" or "urgent". topics should be given appropraite names to make searching easier...luckily most people do this

another great build up thread top quality work there Dirt! makes me very jealous, i havnt got my hands properly dirty in a good 8 months skylinekid, you must have a grin plastered ear to ear, all the best mate

you cant multiply torque, you can multiply your tractive effort, by changine ur final drive... too many people confuse these two things The tractive effort is torque multiplied by the total ratio of power train (gearbox, diff etc.) all divided by the rolling radius of the tyres. sorry for being a fussy prick (hey, im an auto eng student), but people keep saying that their car makes thousands of Nm, when really its tractive effort (which is in Newtons) sorry, back on topic

In turbos you really do get what you pay for...and that is a cheap turbo most people wouldnt touch them with a 10ft pole, but others say they have been going strong once a good local turbo shop has had a little fiddle with them so up to u...its a risk remember if you spend $500 on this turbo and it falls to peices, then you buy another $500 turbo, uve spent $1k and still dont have a great turbo, and thats the kind of money u'll pay for a quality turbo

No idea if anyone is an aussie supplyer, havnt heard of any, you might have to buy direct and import it. Their 4 door kit is currently probably top of my list when i get my R34, (or do i go wide and buy the 2 door kit and customise it? hmmm...) this link gives better translations http://66.163.168.225/babelfish/translate_...y.com%2fR34.htm

I assume adriano was implying that you use what ever head ur currently running in ur skyline So no additional cost for the head It would be legendary to see someone do a $150 rebuild and thrash the guts out of the thing, brilliant value