Kranker

you are spot on with what to do next programmable management , electronic boost controll and a good tune are definatley the way to go. next step is a larger turbo, and upgrading your fuel system (pump, injectors etc.) and it spirals downward from there haha start looking at the rb25 dyno thread to get an idea for what you need to do to achieve your goals hardest part at your stage is deciding which kind of management to go with and this descision should be dictated by who is tuning the car and what they are most comfortable/experienced with. so id be choosing my tuner, and then choosing which management system to go with

GM now = GOVERNMENT motors until its profitable once again, and can buy back the US govs 60% share. as some1 mentioned above this could have all been avoided if they ran a more efficient company with good cars that actually sold. they had several brands all selling very similar products, they were their own undoing. i get the distinct feeling that all we will be seeing from GM for a few years is econoboxes. pity... that new camaro was rather sexy

headjob for the win id be looking at what i want the power for do you want that extra burst of power to try and break into the 10s at the track---nawz or do you want less power but have it all day every day---head work

http://proengines.com.au/collar.html

check on the transport SA website to be sure but i think its 100mm from the lowest point on the car

neo runs 236 8.4mm intake and 232 8.7mm exaust if memory serves me correctly if it was me id be looking at doing the other mods first (turbo, ecu what ever else you had planned, etc), getting it on the dyno, adjusting the cam gears, and seeing where it makes its power. you never know, it may do everythign you want without the need for aftermarket cams

use the search funtion for common questions like this, its faster than wating for a reply and doesnt make all the people in the know repeat themselves i just typed "max boost" this was the first result http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...mp;hl=max+boost another useful one http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...mp;hl=max+boost 10-12psi seems to be the consensus

I got one aswell...russian bastards i hope everyone knows not to click it, always check if the link ends in ".ru" and never click it

have a look at the Rb30 guide pdf file in there they have the chart from Tomei that lists cam specs for the standard cams in RB engines according to that: R33 RB25DET cams should have 240 degrees duration and 7.8mm lift ...so would appear to be standard lift

those crazy kiwi's... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNKSutBqY6k im pretty sure that thing is just supercharged if you had a supercharger laying around your garage it could be an interesting build, but would probably need more R&D and money put into it to get it all working properly its cheaper and easier to go with tried and tested turbos but if you want something different with some sweet supercharger whine go for it

1UZ = 8 cyl so 8 cyls make 480hp, or 60 hp each. RB = 6 cyl, so 6 cyls make 480hp or 80 hp each rule of thumb, 6cc of fuel per hp. so for the v8 480/8 x 6 = 360cc/min per cyl for the 6 480/6 x 6 = 480cc/min per cyl 360 x 8 = 2880 480 x 6 = 2880 so both engines (if they are making the same power) require the same amount of fuel per minute, just the 1UZ spreads that over 8 injectors not 6. does that answer ur question cactus? edit: and as said above, a good tune can get rid of any low rpm drivability problems that might arise from oversize injectors, plus you have room to move in the future.

if it was burning oil the smoke would have a blue tint white usually means burnt coolant

do it yourself if you are short on cash and/or have the time We did it on our MPS 6, resprayed the RX8 wheels we bought for it in a charcoal black, just rub them back, couple of cans of desired paint, then a coat of clear. The finish is pretty damn good for $100 and a days work, plus any repairs are easy because you have the exact colour for touch-ups. but if people are quoting like $150 for a professional powdercoat (sounds cheap to me) then go for it.

Yep topsecret front bar, but its topsecrets GTR front bumper, their GTT one is slightly different. But a few companies make topsecret GTR lookalike bumpers for GTTs Carmate sells a copy of what ur after they call it "TS2 stlye" Sideskirts are URAS, either D1 spec I or spec II, cant tell, rear bumper is also likley to be URAS but hard to tell. As with the front bar, cheaper copies can be bought, but quality and fit suffers

when comparing turbos its handy to be able to make sense of compressor maps have a read of this, its not a bad "how to" guide (a 2 second google search got me this) http://www.enginelogics.com/cmaps.html its not the be all and end all but its a good way to start comparing two turbos

a GT40R or GT4094R is a closer comparrison to a TO4Z, like Nismoid said, the GT35R is a smaller turbo. also remember bearing desing on the GT series is a whole generation newer than on the TO4Z People have used the TO4Z with great success on a stock capacity RB26 To give you an idea on the difference have a look at the dyno thread and find these users T04GTR, DVS32R, CruiseLiner, Cerbera, R32-GTS, overpowered all run TO4Zs and all make well over 375kw have a look and compare the powercurves of these turbos with your original choice of -7s. You will find that the -7s will come on harder earlier, making your car suited to your original intent of track and hillclimb work. I would imagine that the single that get closest to power delivery of -7s would be a GT30R. But if you want more grunt go for the T04Z or GT equivalent, just dont expect it to be suited to short tight hillclimbs

old turbo. T04B was the precurser to the T04E, which was superseded by the T04Z, and even the T04Z isnt a state of the art turbo when compated to the newer garretts unless its dirt cheap/free and you dont mind old school turbo driveability id be looking at somethign newer.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...req-t64201.html this is a FAQ written by PaulR33 has lots of info if you want more detail google seach and findout how ecus use afm and map sensors differently what you want is a regular PFC and 2 Z32 AFMs, just for simplicities sake. D-Jetros dont come with a base map. and make sure you get a good tune, they do have a base map per say, but this will be a long way off of a good tune. also, there are other good ecus on the market these days, if you arent going to be tuning the this urself, best ask your tuner what ecu he reccomends because afterall he/she will be using it the most, and will get better results on a familiar system edit:you may not even need the Z32 afms,cant remember limits off the top of my head, std could be fine at 300wkw...not sure

people make more power with the same psi becuase the turbos are more efficient, ie colder, more dense air...more air per unit volume. saying that volume is the only answer is rediculous. no matter how much flow or boost ur running, your 500cc cylinder will always take in 500cc of air. volume of the cylinder is constant, same with the plenum, its a fixed volume. turbos allow engines to make more power because there is more air in this same volume. the air is under more pressure, ie more air crammed into the same space.

Not only is WRRR patient and knowledgeable, but he didnt even respond to bumblebee's childish slander and name calling ...must be Jebus

on the subject of higher lift with a neo head has anyone worked around the issue that Spool found with any lift over 9.xx mm lift, and exposed oil galleries (if my memory serves me correctly)?

covered something very similar to this like half a week ago....so a search should have gotten you an answer http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tried-t241990.html

hope all goes well when you start her up drgnball34, been watching this thread closely, very similar to what i want to do in the future all the best mate, looking forward to results!

sorry dori32 but that red car, and the first silver one u posted a pic of arent z-tune front bars, think they are nismo r-tune bumpers (or copies) (not exactly 100% sure on the exact name) left one is r-tune right is z-tune (crap pics, but u can see what i mean)

bit off topic, but blind elk, where did u get those specs from? ive been looking for a good source for skyline cam specs and the best ive found is the tomei chart, ur specs are far more detailed