r33cruiser

just throwing a tagger on here mate. i can adjust my fuel pressure so i can adjust the backfire. atm i just have a slight pop/barble on deceleration. but when really rich it BANGS!! how bad is it seriously.

check your ignition bro. make sure your intercooler hoses are all good and tight. also does your car have a FCD?

keep it simple man, do a progressive check. check boost and vacuum likes, check circuit/wires. check the coils, check the spark plugs. then go on to check the actuator, AMF etc. lol in that case dont worry, i didnt read your last post :S

simple answer NO. that cool for u. ive used one for a year. no probs. better that the 'common' piston bov

i agree with simon 32. i boosted 12-13 psi. it becomes guttless, like hitting a brick wall. u really need an ecu that has been tuned to cope with it. but at 10psi the rb25 turbo pulls and pull. now keep in mind i have a r33, not r32.

get your support mods done and out of the way first man. usually cheapest and most annoying to install. pump, injectors, ecu, ignition-msd or splitties are ok, fmic, afm go a q45 give some breathing room, metal h/f cat, CLUTCH, diff 1.5 or 2way but a shimmed one is still cool. then exhaust, turbo, bit of debate about manifolds some like hi over lo mounts, etc i would suggest looking at these. heaps of info out there http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/30...kw-t191997.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/30...ml&hl=300kw http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/2-...ml&hl=300kw yes u will need injectors over the 280hp region. also a fpr is sweet to help it along i have had great success with them saves u grief. yes a stock fuel pump cuts out at the 280hp region, and the afm also is in the same region. i was making 255hp and my afm was at 86% capacity. SEARCH FUNCTION BRO. *im not being mean mitch. but if u want it will be close to $8000-$10000 might be a start to have the car. :S

first of all mitch what is your power goals. keep in mind it would be unsafe to take it over about 270rwkw for the longevity of the engine. im sure there are heaps of ppl who agree. of course......keepin the internals standard that is

95ron before. starting using 98 about 3 months ago. thanks again to all the ppl that had suggestions results from new sensor= actually can run rich, or to my liking. does not run lean anymore. car pulls and pulls and pulls, more responsive. i havent noticed more efficiency, but it may be my fuel pressure tho. car is smooth, does not stall, shudder or pop/die off on idle or gear changes lol, admin u can close the thread now if u want

these blokes are tops at elite automotive http://www.eliteauto.com.au/contact.htm not sure if the link works. they specialize in holden and ford engines but have the expertise to work on imports too. they treated me well when i went there about 1-2 mths ago

i have the exact same screamer. im going back to a split dump tho. didnt really see any better results, how about u, did u see benefits of the screamer

hey guys.. replaced my o2 sensor and it is all sweet. must have been that. replaced it with an el falcon o2 sensor. thanks to the guys who helped me, and a shout out to sunnycoast for explaining how a new o2 sensor helped him. for u guys. here is the pics of the old sensor. was in pretty bad shape. any skyline owners nightmare

u are 1 weird motha f*ka, u winge too much. u cant take the forum seriously man, we dont mean half this shit. now man the f*k up man. lol excuse the language...... a bit late now

yo bernard shorty can u pls post up some pics of the finished product with the turbo and everything. cheers. om going in the same direction, and want to know the problems or successes u have had. heard probs with turbo not fitting under bonnet, with basic to4e setup. :S

i have 22 gallon drum of tolulene sitting in my shed. but are u sure that if i use it nothing bad will happen. also me and my mates have been using acetone as an additive. 300ml per 60ltrs, and it works fine. will tolulene work better than acetone?

egt sensor in the cat. have a look at it. they arent very gentle when installing stuff.

rofl. i will edit mine then. lol man. tell me if its too painful to see

not audibly. but the lean warning went off, so i took it easy. anyway guys i adjusted my fuel prs to 40psi at idle. it was originally at about 28psi. will take it for a run and see how it goes

lol dude didnt u pay almost $1000 for the mild steel exhaust? with a bellmouth dump pipe? :S

it pops a bit in between gears. but it only coughs and splutters when u are rolling. eg when reverse parking etc. if that is the fuel pump......makes sense. will have to have a look. the thing is IT HAS NEVER HAPPENED since i started using 98octane fuel? anyway i will recheck all the usual culprits....fmic piping, connections, etc. if all else fails will just borrow a mates 02 sensor and see what happens thanks for the help guys. most mechanics are like, r33 wtf is that?

results= if your car is running lean, sluggish, wanting to stall or lacking power. change the o2 sensor. it may not look damaged but looks can be decieving, besides is ruining the mixture and possibly the engine worth $89?!?! i used a EL falcon sensor. it is a direct replacement with same circuit and 3 wire setup. simply crimp the similar wires up. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/O2...sor-t43095.html hi. i only have a narrow band afr gauge, but it still gives good warning. used to beat any mildly modded car out there of equal size. now.... dead :*( after 1-2 hrs of driving the car will lean out. the only time that it actually moves from its dormant position is when the clutch is in, or when i let off the accellerator. now it hasnt happened for a long time since ive upgraded from 95ron to 98 ron. the car feels sluggish, lacking power and little response. r33 gtst. engine mods= 3" exhaust no cat shielded/boxed pod with cai nismo fpr bosch 040, with dedicated earth and power, to get full 12v fmic with water spray boost controller. at time of incident was set to 8PSI i will be resetting the ecu tomorro. also i will be tinkering with the fuel pressure. what is the MAX pressure that the injectors can handle, and do i measure the reading at idle? thanks in advance i hope with your help, i get it back to the piece of pride and joy that it used to be. CHEERS GUYS

wow..ok. mine have been sweet. i splurged the extra $30 to get the ones with warning light and buzzzer. but i dont understand y u need one on boost gauge lol. boost controllers would limit to a certain psi, so it would be a waste of money. unless u have severe problems with boost creep with aem turbo's

it wont be the alternator mate. hook up a charge light. u will be able to see the charge output from the alternator to the batt. u will find it is in the green. for another alternator test. turn on your headlights, and rev it. now if the lights dim and brighten really noticably it MAY be the alternator failing to put out enough charge, but fairly unlikely.

haha go ebay. and buy autogauge ones. they have a smoked face. i have a afr, boost, water/oil temp, oil pressure and fuel pressure from them. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AutoGauge-Smoked-Fa...VQQcmdZViewItem

buy a new battery. go with a gell long life battery or a sealed battery. but they are a bit pricey. cut your losses man. stop wasting time and money. do it, and move one. WTF. NFI Y It DOUBLE POSTED.

buy a new battery. go with a gell long life battery or a sealed battery. but they are a bit pricey. cut your losses man. stop wasting time and money. do it, and move one.