NZM.031

yeh i do front raises... with 12kg dumbells.. do one arm simulataneously (spellcheck anyone??).. i find that if you do a two arm front raise... you have very little balance and your arms are locked in to the position which is a little unnatural as you get to the top of the movement... Birds... this is probably why your shoulder popped out.... at the top of the movement, your rear delts kick in and your lats pull together... squeezing the shoulders out... doing one arm front raise allows your body to twist a little so your shoulder can handle lifting the weight to 90 degrees.. p.s. im also like you... skinny kid in school.... will never be a "big" guy.... wide back but fark all chest.. haha. think about it... you cant swing your shoulder in a complete circle... it will swing fine by your side... but at some point it has to go wide when it is nearing 90 degrees and from there it will go out sideways until the joint allows it to come back in to your body... if your arms are locked on to a flat bar... where can they go??? but if you swing one arm... your body can twist a little and you can make that arm go in a perfect straight circle. also, id like to share a piece of info that i only learned over the weekend... some people may know it, some people might not... flexing and posing helps with muscularity and blood pump... say after doing a chest set... if you flex and hold a pose for a minute or two... it will help with muscle seperation and get more blood flowing to that area... how you flex and what you "pop" can make a big difference to the shape of your muscle as it grows.... this can be the difference between a sunken but wide and blocky pec, or a short, sharp, but bulbous pec. cheers Linton

yeh mate, i will sell them with the hicas rack as a complete thing.. ill be away for a few days, but ill remove the rack when i get home and let you know... probs sunday arvo-ish. $100 for the lot. cheers Linton

no i didnt think that sort of info would want to be public... i didnt mean it to come across that way... that sort of thing happening is not cool... i dont think its even funny to make a hollow comment on a forum about that sort of thing. i was merely asking a general question.. which has been answered.. thanks.

hey guys.. dont need this anymore, fits standard turbo or any other T3 flanged turbos in the standard spot.. may fit r33.. not sure though. excellent condition, no scrapes or dents... little discoloured, but no problems.. has excellent welds and looks neat. pick up from east maitland... or can freight to you for $15.00 $200 cheers Linton

im curious as to how the visitors go about getting the cars around and stuff while over here?? do they organise it, grab a yellow pages and find a tilt tray... or does the event organiser take care of them and organise everything they need?? where are the cars kept?? at the track?? at their hotel?? at the event coordinators house/workshop etc?? im just wondering if theres 10 full blown time attack cars sitting in a hotel carpark somewhere... that would be a fantastic sight.

yeh i understand that.. and i do agree... but there are many cars out there that have had a small nation spent on them.. but arent necessarily fast... having a big dollar engine with a gazillion bhp isnt a nececelery a recipe for a fast race car. and how would you feel... if your car with its great chassis and suspension layout, designed from the factory for performance driving... is pottering around at the back of the pack because you have a hairdryer on your engine and therefore are forced to have an inlet restrictor... because someone who wants to race a dinosaur family car cant keep up... i dont think that is fair or interesting... but thats just me

i voted open slather.... but thats because i have no incliniation to race or win or compete... like Roy said... i spend alot more time working on the car than driving the car.. and thats by choice because i enjoy it, i want to spend my friday nights making stuff and moving things around to make it better... i am making a track car because i cant drive the car how i want to drive it, on the road... and i cant do the modifications i want and keep it legal on the road... so im trying to do the right thing and take it to the track. i think if you make the decision and spend the coin to make a dedicated track car but have to stick to a set of strict and hard to understand regulations... then whats the point?? you mayswell keep your car road legal and drive it on a sunday afternoon... legal cars are no fun.. especially to us modifying types. the fun in having a track car is having that balls out, no nonsense, no restrictions, no bull shit, full blown, lumpy ass, noisy, hunk of metal that only has one purpose in life.... to go fast! but now im worried that even though i wont be going to an event to compete and win... aka, hillclimbs or speed events (not door to door racing).. i may be turned away for having custom this and custom that, and a different engine, etc. etc.. id hate to spend hours making custom components to improve the cars handling for my own enjoyment, and have someone say, "no, that doesnt conform with regulations, you cant run your car" i think thats why superlap/time attack and drift is getting so popular... there are very few restrictions, unlimited engine and suspension mods.. and the best driver in the best built car will take the trophy... anyone can have a go... whether you spend a motza... or whether your very clever in the parts you use and the things you do... its exciting to watch, and makes me want to go in it. i understand restrictions are in place to give lesser cars a chance and so the better cars dont dominate... but i think thats backwards... i think those that have made a good car should not be punished so that those that havent can keep up.. cheers Linton

thanks geoff... id always wondered that... im making my own knuckles and a new top arm for the gtst... but i was just curious

little off topic... are the R32 steering knuckles alloy??

nice rack

stretching FTMFW... always stretch... when you lift... you hurt your muscles... they get bigger and stronger... but also tighter... dont leave it too late to start stretching... the bigger your range of movement.. the more muscles you can work.. and the bigger and more ripped you can get.. ross enamit says that you're only as strong as your weakest muscle.. and in a working situation... aka. punching it doesnt matter how much force you can punch with from your chest and back and shoulders if your wrist cant transfer it... a suggestion is to use lighter weight that your wrists can handle... build up proper form, and focus on the shaking of your hands... dont think about the actual lift, you dont have to.. its light weight.. but focus on keeping your hands from shaking and do more reps than normal... i like to do dumbbell bench holding one weight up, while you do 15 reps with the other hand... then swap hands... i concentrate on keeping the hand up and steady more than the other hand lifting the weight... after a few months doing this... you'll be right to get back on the big dumbell weights. another thing is doing ez bar curls, with a weight that you cant wrist curl... but is easy to bicep curl... and hold your wrists in one position throughout the curl... lock them in and dont relax them... you'll soon feel the burn in your forearms... when you get to that point, hold the curl at 90 degrees for as long as you can.. your forearms should start to grow fairly rapidly.. or... go swimming with those funky paddle things.. they are great for wrist strength. kettle bell moves are great for wrist strength aswell... as they flop around and stuff... and so are ab rollers... gotta keep your wrists locked in throughout the whole movement. im not saying stop lifting altogther or anything... just add these moves into your workout... or replace a weak wrist move with something like this. i will always use free weights than a machine... for this reason... it builds up your support muscles... you need more core and more stability muscles when using free weights.. and that counts more in a working situation than a big pair of biceps... preacher bench FTL.... unless you need to pull things towards your face real quick and real hard.. hahahaha. cheers Linton

you need a rack hombre... looks a good wall in the back ground to make up some specific tyre racks.

also... vacuum bag FTW... sucks it into all the corners and needs less resin = less weight..... however, if your going to go to all that work... why not make up a mould of the skirt and then make an actual c/f part?? by adding the c/f and extra resin to the outside of the skirt... your just making it heavier and doing it for show reasons only... in which case you mayswell get some adhesive backed c/f cloth..

$70 each sounds pretty good mate..

i thought pro was invite only sorta thing.. and open is for anyone gungho enough to step up.

huzzzahhh... a half decent post about roll centre!!! yaaaay... thanks risking.. but what i dont get.. is you say that its not a dark art.. but then you say its far too complicated for here... and there are different roll centres but its far to complex... which is what i meant by what i said about front to back.. if your going to stuff around with one arm... then you will need to change others to keep it in suit.. its also one thing to get it right on paper... but you also need to know centre of gravity, sideways forces, tyre movement, tyre friction, etc.. which are the things that you need a uni degree to understand.. and even then it may not apply in the real world im drawing mine up and keeping the front LCA as it is.. and will make a new hub and top arm to suit.. which i will then have to work out what to do at the back, to keep it in sync with the front.. and 5cm of suspension travel makes a massive difference to the angle of the arms.. so getting the right length and the inner pivot point in the right spot is going to be a big thing... it will either work well, or go completly pear shaped. nothing is impossible.. and nothing is unlearnable.. and its only metal... designed and made by men with knowledge and machines.

actually it doesnt have to lift 200kg... more like 130kg.. and it should only be once while im at this house.. next house will have a much better setup. i will most definatly be trialling it with weight before i go hovering an engine over the car.. worst case scenario... i make a new 100x100x7 post and dynabolt it to the floor and to the original post.. that isnt a drama.. when the crane isnt in use, it will be secured at the other end... but thank you for your advice.. it isnt the best situation i know, im doing the best with what ive got (so far the crane has cost me $0) and the height of the garage is not suitable for an i-beam with a running block and tackle..

yeh it is... thats what im worried about aswell... the part that mounts to the posts is like 7mm thick... with 12 1/2 bolts so im hoping that will spread the load out and it wont be too much of a drama... we'll only be in this house for another year or so.. so its not worth me doing too much work to the actual structure of the garage.. the crane can be simply unbolted and take it with me.. so the crane is built to last.. the garage is not.

best off to get a front upper arm bush kit and either a rear camber bush kit or a rear upper control arm.. thats about all you will need to correct it... if you want to go further, some castor rods or some adjustable castor rod bushes and a hicas lock bar will make a good difference to the handling, without losing too comfort. it all comes down to how much you want to spend..

mate, you wont get much from people on here about RCA... the ones that know.. keep it very close to them as its alot of gobbly gook and many hours of diagrams and calcuations... and the ones that dont actually know or arent willing to find out and think outside the box, just tell you its a stupid idea to go so low.. the problem is, what you do at the bottom, you have to do at the top, and what you do at the front, you have to do at the back.. try getting a hold of a suspension plotting program or measure and plot the pivot points and draw up a diagram on a big piece of paper, then draw in up and down movement in 1cm increments and find where the lines intersect and what not.. the hardest thing with the r32 is the top arm being on an angle and being shorter than the bottom arm.. so to get in the right spot to pivot without binding and keeping the camber and bumpsteer and eveything spot on throughout the wheel travel.. though in all my readings lately, i cant seem to find where the actual RC should be.. is it under the ground.. or as close to the ground as possible?? or is it meant to be up high??

heres a few pics of the crane that i just made... its not quite finished yet.. but you get the idea.. the wall that it will sit against the post that it will mount to the sketch and the main part of it.. i still need to get some rhs for the extendable part and weld the hook on the end. and the hinge set up... just some tube and some big bolts.. just drops in.. each bolt is capable of 2t. you have to remember that this crane is purely for removing and swinging a 200kg engine out of way.. 5 min use to lift it up and swing it over.. and 5 min to swing it back and lower it down.. so its probably over built for what i need... we thought about bearings and slides and all sorts of stuff... but really.. its just more hassle.. if i was using the crane every single day then it would be a different story.

good to see that jenna has the same safety boot supplier as you fatz... keepin it real..

Price Drop... $1500 + freight.. it will be all wrapped up on a pallet sorry guys, i didnt realise i had replies, thought i had subscirbed to the topic but obviously not. i think rb25 has differnt coilpacks but ill get you a pic anyways yes.. all stock... everything on this engine is completly standard. not willing to part it out at this stage.. shouldnt have sold the coils or intake really but im trying to chase some up.

haha i had a piece of carbon fibre left over so i put it there.. bit of work went into that little panel.. haha.. no seriously.. took me the better part of a saturday... please dont throw it out.. i will be happy to have it back if you change to a garage defend one... ill be starting to play with moulded c/f in the near future so maybe i make you a real grage debris one.

yes all is well... bakes knows that at this current stage in his life, cars just arent a priority... getting 2 kids in and out safely and being able to pack up and go away for a weekend is more important to him than having 300kw... it is a shame though as no GTR will ever be the same.. had he kept it until next year, i seriously would have considered buying it, but he just needed to move on... he was super stressing about it and that started to eat at him and he couldnt enjoy it the way it was meant to be enjoyed... then when tyre kickers came round he got really worried that he wouldnt be able to sell it for the amount it was worth.... so he feels much much better now that its with someone else and hes moved on. heres some more parting shots from when he had it. and my little addition and everywhere it went it drew a crowd