NZM.031

yeh im the same... both grandad and dad were fitter/turners... i thought it was normal to have 2 lathes and a milling machine in a huge shed, plus hundreds of tools and cutter bits... didnt realise then how much those bits cost.. my grandad must have been pissed at me trifling through them and making a mess.. had good access to dads stuff (when he was asleep.. farked if he would let me touch his stuff, haha) but now having moved out and having to start from scratch, i can understand why he didnt want me meddling with his stuff.. but little by little i will build up my collection.

ohhh man i miss this car... lots and lots of good memories though.. hope it brings you as much fun as it had brought bakes.. if you want to improve a few things, a good place to start will be some more castor at the front and less camber at the rear, , maybe a bit more toe out at the rear aswell.... it feels very sketchy under hard brakes.. rear end all jittery and unstable.. other than that it is a really well sorted street car. i was in the process of designing an enclosure for the pods but with you umm-ing and uhhh-ing about the buying the car bakes didnt want me tinkering with it.. having said that, bakes had never ever been pulled over in it.. it commands too much respect.. we drove past 5 hwy patrols on one occasion and got all smiles.. great car. terry... you should see what bakes is driving now.... youd really feel sorry for him then but hes happy with it and it suits his purpose at the moment.. hes happy to be able to use his car more now and not having it sitting in the garage.

i am building a wall mounted crane at the moment (literally, im just taking a lunch break from welding bits), it will be bolted to the frame of the garage using a piece of 100x50x7 rhs and 12 1/2 hi tensile bolts through the steel uprights. it will swing 180* with an extendable boom to reach the middle of the garage, and a block and tackle on the end.. i will post up some pics when it starts to come together a bit more... the good thing about it unlike a straight block and tackle is it can be moved around to clear the car etc..

http://thechive.com/2009/07/15/funny-garag...mural-stickers/ these are interesting.

fark me that must hit like a rocket up its arse... 4000-5000rpm hold on!!!

edit** and if they have to.. overnight china knock off japanese parts from hong kong purchased on ebay **

if you take you car seriously... why would you not take its home seriously?? a clean and organised workspace thats properly lit can save a lot of hassle in missing bolts, tools, and trip hazards. you have to remember that its an american forum.. 18 gazillion times the population of here, so theres bound to be a few OCD garage nuts... there are some top garage ideas and handy hints though.

check out www.garagejournal.com forums for handy things on storage and cheap ass ideas.. also lots of pictures of other peoples modest 2 car garages and such.. the best one to check is Jack Olsens 12 Gauge garage in the garage gallery thread.. such a little space with soo many ideas.. another good one is by Jaysinn Spaceman.. heres a pic of mine.. its 5m wide and 6m long... so you could fit 2 cars in there if you really really wanted to, but you couldnt get them both in anyway due to the driveway... its great as a big one car garage with a good work area. been in there for one year now and am getting it reasonably well setup.. it was a mere tin can when we first moved in.. used for housing a car and nothing else, no lights, benches, anything... hint.. solid doors make great benchtops cheers Linton

hey guys got a silver top RB20det from my r32.. will sell it as a complete get up, excellent conversion for yo s13/s14/s15/r31 was removed running, no smoke, no noise, happy daily driver with 113000kms on the dial, engine has no dramas, stock boost on stock turbo since being imported into aus, no sign of any gizzmos or gadgets been installed. R32 RB20 crossmember, ECU, engine loom, new waterpump and timing belt, new headgasket, alternator, p/s pump, starter motor, exhaust manifold, turbo, half worn clutch, good gearbox, engine mounts, engine fan. i did the headgasket and water pump/timing belt as soon as i purchased the car, as a precaution only.. there was no need for it, i just like to do it, eliminates any future problems. *missing top and bottom plenum and coilpacks... thats all* can put it all on a pallet and freight it to where you are.. wherever that is.. to buy this as a halfcut you'd be looking at $2200 or so, so this should be a bargain at $1700 + freight.. or if you think thats a bit rich, make an offer. pick up in east maitland or thornton, or can deliver to newcastle nsw. pm me or msg 0431646160, cheers Linton

10kg should be no troubles... warm flowing air is what kills the dry ice. it can stay in an esky for around 24 hours.. the more you move around and create air flow.. the quicker it will evaporate.. the guy i got it off suggested putting a dry towel over the top of it.. also, it doesnt need to be on the easy areas for long.. once its finished making noise.. get it on to somewhere else.. the hardest spots to get off are the transmission tunnel and the back seat and back wheel wells.. so get the easy parts done quick and get it on these harder areas to sit for a bit.. freezer bags are great to get it in funny spots.. i used freezer bags and blocks of wood to hold it in vertical places.

well i had 16kg.. and it was plenty to do the whole car by myself.. but i reckon you could do with half of that.. i took my time and did it all in one hit...

stretched tyres arent a problem... but if you have lots of rear camber at the back... that will make it very squirrely.. the weight transfers to the front, and theres less weight on the rear wheels... and if you have alot of camber, you are basically driving on 185's... and if the tyres are stretched.. it can be even less.. its not so much the physical weight of the wheels.. but the larger rotating mass and momentum.. you are trying to pull up 19" wheels with 17" brakes.. my mates wrx is a perfect example of not enough brakes.. it just will not lock up the tyres no matter how hard you stand on the pedal (in a spirited driving instance).. it has semi slicks, and the friction of the tyres will over power the brakes.. its easier to push through the friction of the pads.. this causes intense heat and brake fade.. and eventually toasting the pads and discs.. and it has the standard lightweight 16" wheels with standard sized tyres.

ok so im reading your sig... so you have RDA discs and EBC pads... and you also have Pirelli Corsa tyres.... so you should have some pretty good stopping power there... maybe look into a caliper spacer and fit some bigger rotors, as youve got heavy 19" rims so that will affect the braking in a negative way as the rotors are for a 16/17" rim.. the red stuff pads are a hard compound street pad at best though.. and ive heard good and bad things about them from different people.. i had some RaceBrakes pads in my r33 and thought they were fantastic. the 19" wheels have big wide tyres i imagine?? also what is your wheel alignment like?? are you able to really push on the pedal or does it start to feel sketchy and wobbly like its going to lock up and whip around. for shits and giggles, swap the wheels for a set of r33 stockers with some 215 or 225 semi slicks and see how it pulls up then. the biggest enemy of stopping power is weight and momentum..

dont be so quick to bag your gtst there bro... in reality, you cannot compare the 2 cars even though they are both skylines. sure one has more power and torque, but it also has more weight and a bigger price tag.. and it can be very much improved on from stock.. for what i plan to spend on my gtst, i could have had a nice r33 gtr with a few bolt ons.. but it would be nowhere near as fun to drive as my 32 will be.. and you only have to worry about resale if you plan to resell it.. i dont.. my 32 will be worth nothing to anyone but me.. so i will just park it up and keep it for aslong as i wish to. it all depends on driving style.. i much prefer the chuckability and looseness of a gtst.. as ive said 100 times on here before.. i drove bakes's r34 gtr on the putty... and it was great... but in no way was it my gtst.. it felt heavy and lethargic, i couldnt judge the wheelspin and found it sketchy under brakes.. i prefer to use the brakes and throttle like an on off switch, but thats just me and what im used to and what i prefer in a car.. but this thread is pointless and the OP question is ridiculous.. there are thousands of threads of how to improve the performance of an r33 gtst.. and with $30000 to spend, any workshop would be happy to take a 33 and build it up.. they are quite capable of producing good numbers and they have a really good chassis and handle well.... and 10g for an r33 gtst is a bit rich these days, not at all what id consider cheap...

yes but the s14 and s15 still share the same basic suspension setup, sr20 and are a 2 door coupe.. so all they did was change the "face" of it and make it look slightly different.. the overall basic shape is the same as it ever was.. same with the skylines (boxy) and the z's (swoopy), very few companies will ever redesign the basic layout of a car.. holdens have basically remained the same underneath from VB to VY with very few changes. dont get me started on the whole "r35 gtr not a gtr coz its not a skyline thing.." of these family lines.. the only one still going is the Z series.. so the r35 and r36?? will follow this layout.. i also believe this is due to the fact the skyline family was built from a need to be in homoglation racing. now though without any racing to enter in.. there is no need to carry on the family.. the Z shape was never a "race" car.. it was a sports car, aimed at mid life crisis people and sunday drives, 240z-260z-280z-z31-z32-350z-370z s12-s14-s13-s14-s15... end kpgc110-kpgc210-dr30-r31-r32-r33-r34... end

MEN-AAAAA-GE'!!! and the one who prangs it will owe the other one a 10sec car.. and if they have to... over night parts from japan.

haha, thanks roy.. i knew i read it somewhere.

bonnet sold shocks and springs sold

yeh i know... thats what i meant

there is some data on the interweb ... i cant remember where i found it, it was very compelling.. it showed the differences of a wrx with different brake setups... from stock, stock with good pads and discs.. all the way up to F40 calipers and discs.. the bigger brakes remained more consistent and had more power over more stops.. whereas the stock brakes would fade out.. but this was in a pure racing type environment.. the intitial stopping power of the f40s was not much greater than the stock calipers with good discs and pads.. and along with the extra expense of the bigger calipers comes extra weight aswell. if you go the brembos, you'll also need to figure out which master cylinder suits the calipers and there will be messing around there aswell.. if youve done everything you can to your stock brake setup.. and you're standing on the pedal and its not slowing down, then you need to look at bigger brakes.. but until youve exhausted your standard setup.. its just wasted money. cheers Linton

hahaha... dark blue shirt FTW!!.. and im sorta the only one at my office.. so i got free reign of the place... and birds.... f#$k the deserted island... i wanna go on a massive cruise ship... 6 weeks... eat, train, eat, rest, eat, train, eat, rest.. look at mad scenery, eat... repeat..

off topic.... OMG!! that offset is horrendous!! hehe.

haha, i was.. and then i wasnt.. and then i was.. and now im not.. its one of things where at the moment with the mrs still at uni, i cant afford it.. but i also cant really afford to sell it.. but if i stick with it, come 6 months when she can contribute to the house repayments.. then the process will pick up at a rapid pace. but hey.. everything is for sale for the right price. cheers

hey el fatz... have you got any gtr rear knuckles by any chance?? free bump ftw!