bcozican

i had 2.5 deg with just r33 lca's they bout 10mm longer

i got r33 LCA's tie rods with extra lock 7 deg castor 3 deg camber bumper steer adj running 17 x 9 +17 P1's with 235 /45 ku36's on front and got no probs with hitting anything and decent lock pic below but obv not full lock got one somewhere will put up if i find

pretty sure they are 16 x 7.5 with +40 offsett (or close enough)

yes they will

Hybrid Customs or have to import from SA or Vic but postage is killer ...

i agree get rid of hicus especially if its drift car u should be running 1 deg or less for drift so you will have to flare gaurds and add small spacer what offset are they ?

had a veilside front bar on my 32 with final konnection side and rear... at first thought i didnt mind the front but i really hated it very happy the veilside got smashed in 2nd drift prac... best thing ever !!

tak eout your hicus fullstop if you gonna push the car.. its horrible and will mess your driving up

what are you not satisfied with... pure fact is as you have been told by such mechanic that they reduce the thread on the end of tie rod end, hence less contact thread for the tie rod to secure onto, hence theortically they are 'dangerous' more so than standard because there is an increased risk off a busted tie rod do to introducing a weakness into the suspension links and, you have already been told that he said to use em on the track not the street because he is not liable on the track, also there is potentially less bumps etc on the track compared to average street thats the theory the practise is alot of people use them most dont have problems some do. the choice is urs to take the potential risk or not

perfectly

Im Def not guru but just by reading and adding over the past 18 mths i pretty much have my car where I want it , feels good to me. I have done it in prob 3 stages and can def feel the diff at each stage. Car is setup for drift, now all I have to do is learn to drive better haha HSD Coilovers 8 / 6 springs 27mm Adj Swaybars front and rear Cusco front and rear Strut braces Pineapples Hicus lock bar Kazz 2 way Diff Kazama Castor rods - 7.5 deg D Project Camber arms - 3.5 deg Kazama extra lock tie rods with K adj bump steer Tie rod ends R33 LCA's Kazama Rear Camber arms - -1 deg Run 2mm toe out each side and neutral toe on rear I run 17 x 9 + 17 Buddyclub P1's 215 Kumho KU36 on front (shouldve gone 235's) good enuff grip for me and Ferderal ss 235's on rear

id clean ur injectors but depends how / who u get em off etc yeah no tuning needed for new fuel pump - just got walbro or bosche 044

def do fuel pump, that is just a given cant just run diff injectors with no tune run rich and kill things... u also have to run resistor pack with ur injectors as they are diff impedence etc

HKS cams or cam gears ?? not worth doing cam gears on std cams i dont think HKS cams gona cost u about 550 each with the dollar the way it is prob not necessary im running hks 2530, hks 264 in and ex cams and the rest as you are above get 308 rwhp at 17-18 psi cams moved the touque curve up a little something you prob dont need on an rb20 but holds peak power well but dont think they are a necessary... cam gear may increase mid range the difference bewteen 220 rwkw and 230 rwkw is yes techincally diff but running it on road doubt you find it much diff other than numbers chasing above sounds like a good proven solid quick package

i got 17 x 9 + 17 with standard guards mine is low but doesnt sit on its ass , about 335mm from centre wheel to guard have done 'home' guard roll rims stick out a little too far prob but tyres fit under being 215's front and 225's rear so id go in between +30 - +20 on 17's if you dont want too many dramas

u serious ?? u cant be serious surely ?? are you ??

Skyline model = R32 gtst Wheel diameter = 17" Buddyclub P1's Wheel width = 9" Wheel offset = +17 Tyre size = 215/45/17 front and 235/45/17 rear Modifications to fit = 2.5 deg camber front 3 deg camber rear (too much havent got rear camber arms yet) tucked in front lip a little will have to roll rear guards once take camber out but not by much surprised the fit so well, though they would stick out way further

http://www.hardtuned.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=369686 was gonna say something b4... but ^^

running 2835 would be like running a garrett 2871r - 3071r wouldnt it ? would make the power but larger exhaust housing would prob at the the rb20's classic lag problems ?? i run the above setup too ... car used basically track only... friggin good setup.. not too laggy except for small motokana tracks but anything else as said when on boost it holds right to limiter all day everyday and is very smooth ^^^^ let me know the results

outta interest what rpm peak power at ?? mines higher than most ive seen obv due to cams and not alot of timing in there 6600 / 6700 peak for mine 264 in / ex hks cams wot diff does 260 tomei's get ? gather quicker spooling as less duration?

i have nearly exact same setup (but with hks 264 cams and nistune) and have the exact same prob running just a boost T conttroller drops 2lb over 6700 peak from 18psi to 16 psi tuner etc said if it worries me EBC would be the fix

as said sr20 lighter and has more torque, relatively easier conversion Banger has one in his r32 4 door that is currently for sale .. if not on here on antilag and driftwa

thats just wot im running to get that.... you get get same results minus cams with same setup just add more boost 2-3psi id say but pushing the turbo to its limits.. if not 2530 garrett 2871r - but it a bit more laggy but bit more power

Nistune + HKS 2530 + HKS Cams + GTR Injectors + Walbro pump + Splitfires + 3" exhaust + FMMIC + pod = 300hp reasonably safely

with a 2530 and basically the same setup i got 305 rwhp with coilpack igintion probs and restrictive muff but thats wot u would expect anyway but i had HKS cams and no cam gears - but that really only moves the curve fwd so id say 320ish tops