bcozican

sure are get me on mobile is easiest

As above selling: r32 gtst 2 door genuine Origin sideskirts Brand new, have been painted green $150 Pm or 0411173970 if interested.

as said totally wrong setup so 7500 would be correct to give you an example I ran an rb22 with gtx3076 with 0.82 tial 44 Vipec 88 and e85 with basically everything you can get for that setup (cams dialled in etc) and had full boost at 5200 as all said above get rid of that turbo its never going to work

As above Selling the below, both brand new still in boxes not touched: HEL braided brake lines for GTR R33/ R34 Brembo - Black - $125 Autometer Fuel Gauge - Ultra lite (white face) 2 1/16" - $50 PM or 0411173970 if interested

all bodykit stuff gone

both pairs of castor rods sold

intercooler and piping sold

Front bar Side skirts Xmember all sold

Hi all Listing the below is for sale: Bodykit stuff: R32 - Frp Vertex Front Bar *new* - $250 R32 Frp vented Dmax bonnet - 2nd hand - has front cnr broken (but still attached will need to fibreglass fix, a small hole in back of one vent, has bonnet pins / holes - $150 R32 frp Dmax front guards + 15 - 2nd hand - have small cracks in them but pretty decent, been repaired before so are now thick frp most of the way through - $80 R32 4 door vertex side skirts - 2nd hand - been trimmed neatly front and rear to fit + clear tyres and small plam sized rough bit along one of them - $50 Suspension: R32 Kazama front camber arms - 2nd hand good condition nothing wrong - $250 R32/ S13/14/ 15 Front Castor rods - Kazama - 2nd hand - good cond - $100 - Driftworks *new* - $200 Random: Greddy Intercooler 600 x 300 - been bashed around a fair bit but still held 500+ hp + ally piping for rb high mount turbo + plaz plenum - $100 R32 brake calipers full set front and rear - have usable but nearly gone pads Freddo 2500 front and Project Mu D1 spec rear = $150 Ceffy Cross member - $50 Rear strut brace - Ally (blue ends silver middle) good cond - $50 R32 gtst coilpack harness suit rb20 / rb25 s1 coils - $75 If your looking for anything like above type stuff (not the little bit from the little bit over there in the back) ask as I may have it Please contact me on 0411173970 or PM if interested or want pics. Thanks. Laine

sold

I have R32 gtst HSD coilvers for sale they are 8 / 6 spring rate 16 way damper adjustment Height adjustable Nothing wrong with them used them in my track car but have new ones $700 PM or 0411173970

re: LCA's you can grind off the lock stops and plate/ weld the LCA where it will hit, gives you even more room for more lock then just weld/ box out the LCA for strength = win

If you want more steering lock im assuming drift or similar ?? even if not...take the hicas out fullstop R33 rack will fit yes If you want the most lock out a std rack for and r32 put a ca18de or even better an s14 steering rack in ... less turns lock to lock and little bit more lock, you'll need to re route lines a little but very easy R33 , S14 front lower LCA's will both fit and are approx 10mm+ longer the difference on all that is dependant on what adjustable arms, other suspension, ride height etc you have already but all things being equal longer from LCA;s will induce more camber and widen current stance

I ran an rb22 with std exhaust mani and HKS2835 with internal gate on 310 rwkw using 20psi on e42.5 for over 2 years full boost 4000rpm - all on track did over 30 events like it fantastic setup there are other that have done similar or better so flow myth debunked, ethanol fuel myth debunked std mani will do it easy all day every day

yes and all... but to be honest i smash limiter hard too same as you (and have ignition cut through vipec) and my gtx3076 been going nearly 2 seasons strong i know you've covered it but just for ref 3 guys did turbo's over here this year ... all 'oil starvation' issues no one could prove it was or not ... garrett no help at all with anyone just said 'setup fault'

0.63 or 0.82 rear bud ? might have to wind mine up again yeah you did alright at round 3 haha

check AFM in those electrical problems ? easiest way is to grab someones that you know works bang it on and see if it clears up

id set the toe to 2mm in total ie: 1mm a side start your tyres at 45psi and your coilovers half down soft on the dampners see how it feels and progressive adjust one thing at a time ie: tyre pressures or dampners running too much toe to get grip is a bit of mistake you can go backwards with too much control grip levels with tyre pressures, quality of tyre, dampner settings and spring rates as you drive more and get better/ more confident and drive harder you will end up gettting to the point when you are chasing as much grip as possible but start there get as much seat time as you can and work through it progressively

cool front is sussed pretty much what i run just a bit more castor and more toe out rear way too much camber at -3 should be as close to zero as possible to get most fwd bite as possible but also a little neg camber gives a little more grip and control while going sideways and when the car squats it goes more towards zero hence the - 0.5 a side or 1 total 400hp you will start to have to add a bit of grip in the rear by lowering tyre pressures and maybe a litte bit of toe in if not neutral and also balance it with softening your rear coilover dampners to suitable level rear camber adjustment you need rear camber arms put in otherwise there is f.a adjustment

First thing is go to a reputable wheel aligner place that does race cars that realise 0.5 of a deg actually matters and dont just throw in a 'its close' wheel alignment re: camber 4 deg is 1) might be hard to get and 2) it maybe too much as there is a balance between getting turn it / wash out on the front and as much contact patch on the front tyres as you can under drift always run max caster and 'x' amount of toe out 4mm might be a good starting point a wheel alignment is a very important thing but its not just the front it has to work with the rear to get a good overall balance... and every driver has different preferences basics to start with for referenceF Front Camber: - 3 Castor : 7 Toe out - 4mm Rear: Camber: -0.5 Toe: depends how much you have driven, tyres, tyre pressures, power, style etc but start at 0 and work in from there to get more grip other stuff will come as you drive more

Ran my rb 2.2 for 4 years of solid drifting over 60 events in various stages from 98 ron to full e85 and a heap of different turbo and power setups, below is the last dyno and finally a main bearing went a couple of weeks ago so sold it off... but will put up results. prob forget a bitta stuff Dyno was a hubber: 550hp and 600 nm at 23psi on full e85 Rb22 port and polished head race springs HKS 264 in / ex cams Adj cam gears dialled in rb25 crank rb26 rods arias forged pistons 82mm cosmetic metal head gasket extra capacity sump splitfire coils vipec v88 ecu 1000cc ID injectors full fullsetup, braided lines walbro lift pump 2 x bosche ext aeromotive filter + fuel pressure reg plasmaman plenum greddy intercooler greddy oil cooler setup PWR rad 6boost Gtx 3076 .82 rear Tial 44 ext gate rb25 box both extreme and exedy clutches used custom exhaust 3" to 3.5" twin pipes straight through restrictors in head, massive head to sump drain, breathers from covers to catch can and drain back to sump etc etc

400hp rb20 + 3071 with .82 rear + e85 + supportings = bloody good fun I had low mount i/w HKS 2835 with 0.87 rear 405hp on 21psi by 4200 (rb22) so rb20 be all that by 4500

nope dont think so i ran rb22 on e42 (50/50 mix) with hks cams with gtx3076 with 0.63 and all the bits, nistune ecu 23 psi and 430hp on a hubber and it was 4700 im pretty sure rb22 full e85 will 0.82 rear and vipec ecu , cams dialled in etc was 23psi at 5000

Head drain to sump Baffled sump Breathers in cam covers to catchcan Line from catch can to sump - if it doesnt drain back quick enough put a VDO oil scavenger pump in the line and run it off a missle switch that you turn on when your on the track/ need to Ran mine like this on my rb22 for 4 years - same same ?

You put an .82 housing on the rear for that or still .63 which is why it falls over a bit ?Good job man will turn a tyre and awesome usable rev range....