bcozican

easy .. but aim for less ... some sort of rb25 combo whether standard or built a little ie: bottom end appropriate bolt ons that everyone else uses to get that power (6boost, ex gate, gtx 3076 or similar, injectors, pumps) and on e85 get 450 - 500hp tops safely, spend the money left over on suspension, tyres and seat time still need to be able to put 500 - 600 hp to the ground in a drift car... drifting is just as much about grip as turning tyres unless your running a great suspension setup and an awesome big tyre you will find anything over 450 - 500hp pretty useless I think Im running 440ish hp with just about every suspension thing you need etc etc on decent 265 18" tyres on 18 psi and dampers near full soft in rear for drift and still searching for more grip and turning those tyres like crazy as are most others around that mark and are competitive at a good level unless you are going full Pro spec and can afford great tyres... .. Its not really needed imo...

ha thanks .. i know its a little wildish but its a drift car.... all that is just vinyl and I change the scheme every year or so... just nice gloss black underneath

started as stock streeter but now obviously a track only car Few from recent ADGP in Perth one with crappy phone camera - 60mm rear overfenders to house the 18 x 10 about zero offset with 265/35's

Just to give you a quick idea of the progression I went through from stock to nearly having everything just related to getting lock with r32 steering rack ... add rack spacers and was better added s14 rack (not necessary but i needed a new rack anyway) and ground back lock stops was better again added 3UP knuckles and took lock stops off and moved tab along = not 'epic' but pretty good and prob as good as your going to get without major fabbing of stuff all of the above is combined with your usual caster, camber adj arms and r33 LCA's... i run Kazama caster rods I have had input from others that say running Ikea Formula caster rods may work better to allow more adjustment to give better geometry on bigger lock applications most people said i would get binding at this point but I havent, maybe its due to the s14 rack ?? another guy that drifts with me has all the same gear but stayed r32 and has moved rack forawrd etc etc to reduce binding get your caster and camber arms in (and / or r33 LCA's) get a good wheel alignment (i run castor just over 7 deg, 6mm total toe out and 3 deg camber on the front)

if you get a new sump get an oil return setup from the catch can to the sump.... awesome job man good to see another pushing the limits of the r32 gtst

Sold thanks

2011 rebuilt - same cartridge number on turbo was ordered and put straight in yeah dont really want to sell it but doesnt fit on my new high mount setup = only reason

Selling my HKS 2835 Pro S turbo kit I had on my rb22 in lowmount i/w setup rated at 420 hp made 405 rwhp on mine ideal turbo for rb20 / 25 looking for 350 - 420 hp Had brand new internals put in it May 2011 drivin about 6 - 7 times since then , still have receipt somewhere. Comes with: HKS 2835 Turbo HKS actuator Braided Lines HKS heat shield Elbow and FMIC piping for lowmount setup HKS Dump Pipe Can come with std rb20 / 25 manifold with CIC triple heat coated ally manifold cover in black setup is getting pulled off the car now wanting $1500 am in Perth WA, will post at buyers expense PM me or 0411173970 Thanks

At each barbagello drift practice if your are new when you sign in you let them know, you will be sent up the back of the track on the skid pan for training with Kev the trainer and other new people to drifting. Kev will teach you basic techniques and some car control usually doing some laps around a small figure 8 track, once you have the ok from the trainer that you have a clue he will send you down to the main track where you can start slowly and get used to doing skids down there

R32 gtst just like yours Have a bit 15mm gap between stopper and Plenum when normal after few track days noticed a small rub mark wearing away was from engine torque pushing engine over under load. Engine dampener on that side worked a treat no probs at all. Maybe look at that?

i had the same thing with my plazaman, cusco strut brace and separate cusco master cylinder stopper - was rubbing - put in a decent engine torque damperner, one with a little bit of give - never had a prob with hitting or rubbing since and not screwed engine mounts or anything else either

double post

id be trying this first ... and its a cheap option first and only making sutle changes so you can actually get a real feel for what is going on and then fine tune from there + front sway is obviosuly adjustable so can play around a little to suit if you keeping the gtr rear sway if you want to go adj 27mm whitelines, they were custom made when i bought them only extra few $$ got them done through WA Suspension in a few days

definately get upper camber arms wouldnt be doing the above without them ! also some people have found that you need longer tie rods ... i have knuckles and r33 lca's and 20mm longer tie rods and there is really just enough thread to make it safe, some people have bought 30mm longer just in case, depends on your exact setup though

just re - read std front sway and gtr rear sway - definately contributing to your prob imo dont reduce your rear increase your front think Russman runs a bigger front to rear also for cookers sake i run whiteline 27mm front and rear - just have front adj to soft ( for obvious reasons )

knew you'd say that thats why I put it in hahaha i agree with roy, start simple first soften dampners a touch, go back to std rear lower arms (sell your ones to me), put wider tyres on, smaller sway maybe whiteline 22mm rear ? but the whiteline pineapples to tilt your cradle I think is a plus .. I have these and tilted cradle to 'grip or squat' and find my car has alot more grip then other 'cookers' cars out there either way goodluck and come say hi at trackbattle / adgp ...... im only half a cooker

sounds like easiest thing is to change sport and go sideways but in all honesty even though mine is a drift setup when ive softened the dampeners down driving grip on 235 / 45 Rsr's i have trouble in 3rd so you would have more trouble with more power... wouldve thought 255/40's at least? also what about spring rates or amount of dampening ? what about running 18's for more grip and can fit wider tyres? what rear alignment you running ? have you tried different alignemnts ? im runnning -0.5 camber total and 4 mm toe in total and thats trying to be as grippy as possible interested to see what the differences are.. sorry if im no help . lol

a stock standard drift setup would be Front: Camber - 3 deg Castor 7 deg Toe out 1 -2 each side Rear Camber -0.5 Toe - 0 I run -0.5 total camber and toe in = 2 each side for max grip with 400hp and a long fast track Front should stay relatively the same imo change your rear to adjust your grip levels Also look at sway bars, some people run massive ones like me and some run none.. but mostly soft on front and stiff on rear

go to the rb25 power thread and go through all the turbo's and results rough rule of thumb from my experience is for the same boost level take off 8 - 10 % of the power and add 500 - 700 rpm of full boost of the rb25 results and thats about what the rb22 will give you

mine came build balanced and blueprinted straight drop in *shrugs* but just had a look and you get custom cams now where i put in my HKS ones so maybe same same valueish ?

yeah got head flow report thingo somewhere flowed something like 90% of rb25 head or something torque wise direct comparison i cant tell you because i changed the turbo at the same time i put this engine in but with similar setup on rb20 on dyno graph you could see the difference, basically it will be smack bang in the middle of rb20 vs rb25 with same setup by the looks other than forged pistons / rings 25 crank and 26 rods off top of my head .. get the head work... new HD springs, metal head gasket, adj cams gears, crank collar, restrictors in head and head drain from rear and i got custom sump takes extra 1+ litre with drain back etc yes..its still is an rb20 with a bit extra but it just suited me at the time for my situation and was a brand new engine just be honest with your goals in the future and see if this engine will match them and that will go along way to answering your question i think...

im running one... to be honest its up to you about the money, no one can really help you with that but if i wasnt tracking my car i wouldnt spend the coin on an rb22 what I can say is the quality and service is good and i have been hammering mine for 2 years 12 months of over 400hp with a few mishaps like laps with cracked rad etc and its held up ... mine was built loose though and breathes but came with custom catch can drain to custom sump setup the head gets ported and polished too which i think adds a major benefit compared to standard rb20 as the two resitictions are the small cc and non flowing head

i have one and it clears easy, sits lower than std i think

no where in Perth and wont be anytime soon ... its only sold in the 205L drums