bcozican

and just another little view of side pipe + fresh tyres - also shows how wide the rear sits now I havent measured it exactly but my trailer is 1950 wide and there is an about 5cm odd a side so about 1850 wide id say little narrower at the front for now - std r32 gtst is 1460 wide so added nearly 20cm of total width

Old engine out on the left - new engine being prepped ready for all the goodies and cop a hiding on the right With engine out can show how clean and basic the engine bay is now - all the gaps in the wall been filled and welded + painted ...all braided brake lines, braided wastegate lines, braided powersteering lines also running s15 rack Powersteering and coolant resi - relocated and small etc neat + do the job having previouos also had r32 4 door and built that up slowly bit by bit for the last 5 years have learn alot about suspension so we transferred that knowledge to this car and so far for the little driving ive done in it its great ! Front suspension + brake setup - powered by Max LCA + castor rod combo sitting approx + 30 wider than std, whiteline sways, brembo's project mu rotors etc Rear subrame shot - running s14 rear subframe with solid offset bushes - this is +10 mm each side wider than standard with better geometry - also you can see full subframe bracing kit by Gkteck - in addition we have changed the LCA pickup points... this flattens the LCA and the additional mechanical grip it provides is awesome. its based off the 90's Jap drag GTR's and makes a good amount of difference, as you can see custom mounting points for the rear sway was needed too

as I have the engine out and car half apart prob a good chance to take some pics: APR carbon mirrors with fabbed ally backing plates: Boot with fuel system etc and ally frame boxed and going to chasis for wing mounting so it actually does something Wing mounts to boot and connects straight to frame - need better stays etc but that will come in time 'The office' as they call it 2mm ally door cards with fully gutted doors, fabbed handle etc etc - never actually weighed the door in full yet but they are very light about 12 + kg saving per door Inside view of lexan windows - the 4 side windows and rear window weighed 24kg in total the lexan weighed 12kg. The frames are bolted to the doors for easy removal and are made of hollow .8mm stainless steel powdercoated black all up with screwed added back approx 800g per door - rear lexan was put in and sealed just like original glass

haha fair enough man pics always good - i agree re: air jacks - I used k sport. As per pics there are positioned in the rear tops welded directly to the cage, underneath its boxed out for support the whole way through. Lines run to join for bulkhead through to boot. I havent finshed off the final connector yet that will come out the fuel flap

most of the weight is in the window mech itself? if you want to retain glass and you just want your windows either up or down (not at all) what about fabbing up a runner to hold bottom of the glass, brackets to hold runner attached to door via bolts - so if you want the window in and up its there if you want it out its 4 bolts undone and the whole window unit comes out ? but i spsoe if you go that far mose well go lexan save about 5- 7 kg per door ? (my window mechs in r32 4 door weighed 5kg each) my lexan window frames but are bolted in still not welded - so if necessary still easy enough to remove but strong enough to hold everything together

personally I just let my tuner do their thing but he said yes helps reduce temps quicker because something about in certain ecu modes you can run it 'independant' to use for antilag so changes the firing order which causes less heat ... dont quote me as such there as I didnt pay alot of attention as dont really care too much but in reality Id say alot of it has to do with the sounds haha... just because you can I started first car on rb20 = cool ! then rb2.2 then rb25 we dont have to get into the back alot because there is literally nothing in the back except cage, brake lines and airjacks - so no real problems for me .... we (and I have seen others do this) were going to cut them along the line of the door seam so the flare becomes two parts and can open and close the door as normal and doesnt look too bad but have had no need yet... or just run them like my other car under the door itself but it does cause some restriction on height / rim tuck etc bare in mind where and how you fit the flares does depend on ride height + setup like subframe, alignments , rims, tyres offset etc to what will fit and what size flares to get took a bit of trial and error, because I run my rear soft it squats alot so cut the fenders metal up 1" and rewelded it all neat n tidy also run an s14 rear subrame with is about 10mm wider each side than normal gtst with rim 10" +15 i just wanted to be able to run as wide as i could without spacers and without major guard work

awesome nice to see more 4 doors coming out ! yeah that idle is with 256 drop in poncams - what make it sound like that is 1) sidepipe (but I used to run straight through pipe to back and it was the same) but also major contributor is it has rotational idle no more vids as yet but will get some up asap no problems as it stands re: flairs i can open the rear door - the flares are put on by nutserts so literally takes 10 secs to take em off and open the door - this was done on purpose as the first time had the car at the track everyone opening rear door to have a look and fiddle with air jacks but my last car was 4 door also and put the flairs below the door line along that lip and could open and close door no problems as per below:

dont know how to embed ... but a bit of rotational idle + side pipe action https://youtu.be/zAf5cOCdDX0 https://youtu.be/sSTdcBTuUOs

Thanks... it wouldnt be my colour of choice if I started from scratch for a track car - it would be gloss black - cheap, clean and easy to repair but bought the shell already painted but I have grown to like it ...alot ..... its different but not super crazy (especially compared to my last car for drift had crazy colours and livery) its a Ford colour then a HEAP of fleck put through it ... cost mega $$$ for the guy to paint and i realise this as i just bought 2L of it to paint up spare bodykit stuff and wow ! not he best for a track car but I just wont bin it hopefully

not so awesome update the only thing 'old' on this car after the finished build was the engine - it had 18 months of drift on it ... so after a state drift comp on boxing day I went out on a track day - half way through I got the death rattle. Packed it up on the trailer (winched) and took it home i havent pulled engine apart yet but im calling broken oil pump.. And there it sat till last weekend as I bought a new house and reno'd it straight away so had no time at all - so now that finshed back into cars So engine is coming out and bought another rb25 already put together for a good price - std bottom end, head reconed etc etc performance spring, poncams ( I already have a set now I have a spare ?!) new water pump and gasket set blaa bllaa so hopefully in next week or two back for a touch up tune, then some consistant track days to get some seat time and enjoy driving this thing as im hanging out !

Such I good flowing track they made out of that ! keen to drive ... when im back up and going Too quick for me man but i'll happily attempt to chase you down

All looking the business ! just as another option for door trims the guys that did mine suggested powdercoating them... so i did and for a couple of $$ a door its easy, looks good and hard wearing etc

I am selling a near new 0.63 rear housing only for gtx garret turbo Was used for dyno and 1 event It has v band flange $300 ono PM or 0411173970 if your keen Thanks. Laine

i do like my r32's some very nice cars in this thread just finished my new build its a track car but still looks subtle and like a skyline I think unlike my previous track cars

who here has had there car tuned for different boost levels in different gears? ie: 2nd gear wastegate pressure and 3rd / 4th gear linear progression ? and does / did it make it easier to drive and improve lap times? or do you just get full boost with most response all the same in all gears and pedal it with the right foot

So I built this and I thought Id share: 　 　 I dont know where to start as im putting this up as a completed build, it took us 8 months and alot went on so see how it goes with the explanations. 　 I have been drifting for 5 years at state and national level in an r32 4 door with the odd grip lap thrown in there at RAC driving centre tuning days etc now looking to still drift for a bit of fun but will be doing some 'proper' track work and learning how to drive straight 　 Aim is to drive it have some fun, do different type of events and just pull it out when I want to drive it and pack it away when I dont. For now keep it at the level where if something breaks ie: engine or g/box I can fix and drive it again and not have it sitting around for 6 mths to rebuild a 20k engine. Concentrated on a solid balanced car and if anything would be concentrating on reducing the weight further rather than looking for too much more power 　 Apologise for crap photos but some pics are better than none and it just got finished Saturday arvo and I ran it this sunday gone 　 Basically I bought the car as a painted shell with the cage in it done by Racing dynamics, tubbed fronts and cut out boot with ATL fuel cell framed with chrome moly so good starting point Then the build started: Engine / driveline rb25 'standard' - head done by head torque, Metal head gasket, ARP bolts, poncams, custom large capcity sump Gtx 3076 with 0.82 rear 6 boost Tial 44 wastegate Custom intake Plazmaman intake plenum ID1000's + fuel rail Spitfire coils Vipec v88 ecu Custom catch can with drain to sump Custom Intercooler piping Koyo Rad PWR intercooler HKS oil cooler Aeroflow p/s cooler Chasebays P/s pump + coolant resivour Exedy Clutch Std rb25 gearbox Kazz 2 way with 4.11 Custom dump and exhaust with v band = sidepipe Custom full car rewire + engine harness All braided lines with speedflow fittings for oil, water, wategate, fuel lines ATL fuel cell - custom framing ext lift pump 2 x ext bosch fuel pumps on ally surge tank w/ micro filter Suspension / Brakes / Wheels Tien Drift coilovers Whiteline Sways F/R Front: s15 rack Tien tie rods + ends Power by Max LCA's + castor rods Kazama camber arms 3up knuckles - very mild Rear: S14 subframe - braced w/ custom mounting points Zenki LCA's Kazama Camber arms Kazama Toe arms Brakes: R34 GTR Brembo calipers Project Mu single peice rotars Project Mu HC + pads all round K Sport Hydro h/brake Braided lines all round GTR brake booster w/ bm50 bmc 　 　 18 x 10 + 15 rims - Rota's (yes i have 12 due to drifting will upgrade later) Will start on 265 Achillies 123's but have Yoko 050's in the shed ready for curcuit 　 Interior / exterior Racing Dynamics cage Air Jacks for rear - port will be in fuel flap Full gutted doors + rear parcel replaced with 2mm ally powdercoated black Floor pan drivers + passenger side (not is yet) Cobra drivers seat / Bride passenger seat + harnesses Std dash, switch panel, Autometer gauge setup in dash + working fuel gauge for ATL fuel cell Lithium battery (1.7kg) 3mm Lexan windows all round Origin full bodykit Have 2 x spare bodykits Have various front bars - Gtr etc Carbon Jun style lip Abflug carbon front under tray Jun style reatr carbon diffuser Gtr front gaurds - also have Dmax frp gaurds Rear flares Origin GT wing 1700mm Custom fab work: (by PSA / Precision suspension) Intercooler / rad / front bar / light support Rear Boot frame for wing although attached to boot goes onto fram which goes to chasiss Window frames for lexan windows (pillarless doors) + door handles Exhaust w/ v band Catch Can Fuel Filler ++++ 　 　 Tuned on Allstar dyno on pump E85 = 500hp - 550nm full boost 4100 at 20psi bleeding it off to 17psi (drift tune) 　 Will drive the car now and get used to it and make all the little adjustments as we go if I do more circuit work I will run another map and tune so it doesnt blow the tyres off also get proper rear wing etc 　 Havent weighed the car yet but totally guessing about 1240kg ?? 　 　 　 　 　 Lots and progress to come and be made on the car but for now onto driving it ! Im not very good at updating and all that but will see how we go .. thanks for reading (if you have got this far haha)

who needs dedicated track car hey ! nice man taking this to its full potential what times did you run in the old green beast ? i need something to aim for once i learn how to drive straight

i wouldnt do that no in your case id run it off a separate switch so it runs on independant to your headlights and then on all the other track days you do just unplug it and take it off your car

Yeah man... they are pretty light. We just made an ally braket to run across in between the headlights in the gap between the bonnet and front bar. We run thermo fans on that car and just unhooked one fan for those nights and put it to the lightbar n just turn it on via missile switch

Prob ebay is cheapest and easiest. Or picked up a 10" 2 row one for 100 from autopro and it did the job awesome

Put a light bar on your car is the easiest thing .... its light and easily put on and removed first time out take it easy... lots to things to hit and there for funu not sheep stations brake early, make the corner, good turn in and accelerate out straight and you'll have an awesome time

was $880 for 4 sides and a rear, thats curved and thermo'd from originals the plastic itself if you wanted it not curved and cut it yourself (buy it straight from plastics wholesalers) was about $400 from memory

Recently did this for my r32 gtst 4 door im building from ground up Havent got them put in yet but have dummy up and good fit. I just found a plastics place that would form them off the original windows (started just by calling wholesale plastics place in Perth where I am and they recommended 2 places from there and i rang for quote.... took in my glass windows and they just thermo them off that i did 3mm all 4 sides and rear 4 sides and rear in glass weighed 23.8kg - lexan in 3mm equivalent windows weighed 11.8kg so coupe would prob weigh less therefore less saving. i think i read somewhere that the rear qtr on a r32 gtr only saved 500g but its also easier and cheaper than the full windows depending on how you want to put them im etc (im just using samll brackets) one of the biggest savings comes from not using the window mech inside the door

Hi need standard front intrusion bar for r32 gtst to borrow / buy as cheap as possible as only using it to make a new one and get measurements 0411173970 if you can help Thanks

as said could be any loose suspension also could be a half shaft hanging out of the diff a little and banging back and forth from it being bent or similar