bcozican

^^ don't know why double pics and wont delete. Oh well

Been a while Ive had some time off not being at the track as it was that time when everything was wearing out and $$ were need for upgrades, replacement and general servicing So out again in about 2 weeks to start getting back into it so everything is in motion and nearly ready to roll New clutch in ... single plate from NPC For the front brakes ....new Project Mu SCR Pro two piece rotors on and going to try H16 - 03 pads / rears are Ok and will stay the same Fluid change for gearbox and diff = Motul As I wasn't fully happy with the way the car handled through the corners with understeer so Ive got new spring rates front and rear from MCA to try - same as others on here have had some success with so they are in and will hopefully give more feedback and less understeer mid corner With the guard chopping the tyre, we cut about 10 -15mm more out of the guard and that's really all I have as its up to the rear door sill now. Folded the inner lining under and welded it so have about 15mm of flat all the way around under the guard now so even if it does touch it wont chop. With new heavier spring rate and more room it shouldn't anyway Also, I know not great shots, but finally have the new Ce28rt Blacks on with new Yoko 050's - mediums 265 front and 295 rear For the first outing in 2 weeks I will not be running the splitter, have the topstage carbon r32 front lip for the GTR front bar coming that Im going to attach to the ally composite undertray/ splitter as I wasn't really happy with the airdam Id made on version 1

sometimes that chopping etc of the shroud/ rad from the fan comes from worn / broken engine mounts when the car brakes etc the engine can move forward hence closing the gap / changing the alignment of everything... been there !

so you going to cut and weld metal in between the arm somewhere to extend it if I read that right ? or you going to buy proper adjustable LCA's? Just letting you know s14/ r33 LCA's are longer than R32 by 10 - 15mm (cant remember) if that's enough and easier for you. If you are going to cut and weld, you'll need to box out (brace) the underneath of the arm with a couple of bits of sheet metal welded across it to give it some support Either way... with you moving everything out further you will need camber arms, tie rods etc etc to match the length ...so longer ones which ill no doubt have to be adjustable ones also depending on your rim / tyre combo it may now scrub front bar or rear of tub as it carrys a new arch

don't know if ive got a handle on it but am giving it a go haha lots of different theories etc out there but like anything the basics remain the same. Aero totally changes a car an the way you drive it from my experience Make sure the car drives good and handles well without it, then if adding aero add with balance and adjust the car from there. I went with cheaper version of front splitter etc to trial and error and in case of mistakes at first rather than go all out (im currently making V2) but as you've seen gone pretty speno on the rear cause I doubt I'll smash that. A lot of people use the marine ply for the front splitter, I used ally composite (ally honeycombe middle and 0.5 ally each side) Best thing is now just drive the car and enjoy it !! nothing better than getting in the seat and driving on the track and finding out what the car you've built can do, and also cant do... then adjust from there

well done man ... always good to get to the light at the end of the tunnel

major understeer I would say as it would push you through the corner with not enough grip in the front to take the lateral load you will need to balance it out to get you around the corner properly

thanks yeop I agree will follow what he says etc yours looks very smooth / quick through the corners !

can I ask what spring rates you have gone too ?? Im just going from 11F 5R to 14 F and 6R as I had / have massive understeer all the time

Thanks yeop might investigate the ability to get the sphericals into the rear and give it a go - wouldn't think they last too long but you never know until its tried I spose yeah GTR knuckles require changing to forked bottom mount on new MCA coils ...hmmmm might end up being too much coin and messing around .. the appeal of reducing unsprung weight for 4 kgs is high though

Sorry I should have elaborate a bit more This is for track only, I have all adj arms yes and its for the rear knuckles I was referring to the bushes in the knuckle being replaced, as per pic. So basically it would reduce the slack / give on the knuckle side of the arm just reducing another lot of movement in the suspension setup Can see the S13/ 14 and GTR kits here I will have to have a measure etc to see if the s13 kits are the size size as what in the std r32 gtst rear knuckle For some reason my computer is being full tard so I cant copy the link in but www.splparts.com has them

Been recently reading on replacement of rubber bushes in knuckles with spherical Obviously benefits being less movement etc etc ..insert technical term here... Has anyone done this with any feedback ? if so any info on kits and where to get etc Im running r32 gtst with std knuckles / uprights I can only see stuff for z32 / gtr rear knuckles / uprights on SPL website bonus question Ive talked to a few guys with s13/14 racecars that have replaced rear knuckles with GTR uprights - 2kg less sprung weight a side + added sphericals - obviously a lot of messing around but has anyone gone to this level ? just interested

yeop same spot i'll be making a rear diffuser and thinking about going flat floor etc but how, how high, whether flat floor without side skirts linked to it is worth it or have to go full enclosed, materials used and weight of that material vs cost etc are all relevant and good for discussion Im prob using ally honeycombe core composite for above 1.5kg / m2 so light and strong maybe start a thread in Motorsport section and go from there ???

Bit of everything just getting into learning about it. Read quite a bit and applying slowly to my car (my build in motorsport section) I like the top level stuff and also bang for buck stuff the average punter can do... but done correctly... not just slap together to look good

Topstage does dry carbon roof for $2200 or $2800 installed ...ish for R32 GTR I don't know how much of the roof it replaces but give you an idea

+1 would be relevant to my interests as well

Last Thursday I went to Barbagallo for No limits night... it was one of those nights that lent itself to not a lot of track time with track incidents taking a lot of time only got out 4 x long track and 2 x short track The brake fluid leak reared its head again ... in the end it was deemed it was the cap leaking as nothing was around the unions so quick thinking and good glove work from my mate yielded the below to see it we could stop it / stem the tide so the night wouldn't end early and bingo... worked perfectly no more issues - weird ! With the limited time I had on track I was impressed with how the car felt a lot more braking, mid corner speed (basically no understeer) and good drive out of corners, there is some tweeking to do obviously but its how Ive wanted the car to feel from the start. Found some issues with more rear squat and the softer sway bars the tyres are getting chopped. We have 70mm clearance after chopping some of the guard away... no enough it seems so more will have to go In the end I got a 63.4X long track lap and 54.5X short track lap with same tyres that 1 sec taking off my last PB ... the car has more in it with this setup prob another 0.5 / 1 sec just in setup and driving Much to learn with driving skill and consistency and also need to grow some balls and push a bit harder too but all in all a decent result so far so looking forward to more seat time

why for you torment me !!!! but good to see u be out again

yeah tight fit and too low so its bumper off drive onto trailer bumper on.... hey im not baller spec enough for an airbag trailer etc but its 4 fast clips to hold it on for the trailer and then 4 bolts either side accessed through those two blanking panels to secure it properly for the track - not too bad until I can come up with something that improves that

Thanks Dale...2 of the back port connections to the bmc where not tight... weren't loose as such but given heat and viscosity of brake fluid prob enough to squeeze some juice through them and out. Everything else we went over twice and looks ok so have tightened and will monitor that. Im out this Thurs again so will get a better idea of the newer setup and can relay info for anyone interested in DIY splitter etc and hopefully the brake fluid stays where it should from now on I was busy at the track the other day so didn't get any track photos but this is how the splitter etc finished up for those interested

The direct changes I made to the braking system were the 2 piece rotors moved up from a bm44 to bm 50 and new brake fluid. Lost above half the bmc fluid in 5 laps and not the previous 20 odd (unless it was actually happening just not enough yet to notice) I didnt lose pedal feel other than the usual brakes are too hot feel only came in to let car cool down and noticed then? And it wasnt sprayed everywhere was more a leak from the top and air under the bonnet caught it and spread it a bit ....Thoughts? Havent checked cap etc yet Reference to overall improved braking came from above + new suspension + splitter combo (obviously dont know specifically as all changed at once)

Yeah go for it more info the better I think... good luck and let us know how you go. Well first time out at tuning session yesterday everything mostly went well. Its a point and shoot track with only 1 high speed straight and corner the rest is twisty. The car was very balanced the splitter didnt break haha and basically just has a few scrape marks on the bottom of it which tells me the ride height of it all is pretty spot on Biggest thing I noticed so far was the braking.... the new combo massively shortens braking distance. But whether this is because Im carrying less terminal speed because the front is now a big brick or just the new suspension,splitter, is helping obviously unknown at this stage as all this is just seat of the pants but feels like the later for sure Had an issue with brake fluid spat out of the new bmc.. it doesnt seem to be leaking anywhere under pressure but it spat from max level to half way down.....maybe cap leaking?? Or just too full and pressurised with higher temps?? Anyone had similar please throw me a suggestion so will look at that Also will need to run some brake ducting blanking everything off the front is cool and all but brakes cook easily Overall reasonably successful first test I think and going in the right direction

As above the both sides situation This is for track in r32 gtst Ive always been in camp 2 - 8kg Front 6 rear with 27mm front sway and 24 mm rear sway - then moved to 7kg front and 4kg rear with same larger sways now.... tomorrow is my first trial in Camp 1... 11kg front with 5kg rear and back to standard sways - cant say im not nervous about it but hey MCA do know what they are talking about so I'll listen... for now

will be interesting for sure... unfortunately the golden rule of racing of only changing one thing at a time was thrown out the window here but hey time will tell

first roll out with a lot of the new stuff on Friday arvo for a tuning session ... car should be fairly different to drive Id imagine, but don't know maybe not.. we will see I think the splitter thing is worth a go for not much coin and just some hours toiling away - can only give it a go to learn sh*t pics and all but front splitter nearly complete just some tidying up to do