bcozican

Been a while since updating here but why not.. Im into the low 59s around Barbs so improving on times and still having fun.... would be so nice if I had easier access to get to eastern states tracks or even S.A - maybe one day At last event in May the old turbo started blowing smoke thought rather than rebuild upgraded to Gtx3582 Gen II 0.82 rear, added a Turbo oil restrictor, 5 - 0 Ignition trigger kit and Audi r8 coilpack kit, also went Rb26 covers with baffling etc All yielded great results power wise and on track feel (and pretty much dyno) no loss in responsiveness and 26 covers basically stopped my oil out the catch can breathes dramas so far - good win all round Tailshaft rebalanced and Greg D redid my diff as best he could till I can get him the $ to build me a new one - going to stay with the 4.11 ratio as its just enough but am reaching the limits of the gearing reaching over 7k in 5th down back straight but I like the response and Im able to put the power down still.. A few little carbon additions side splitter aero tunnels taking me to now full width allowed 2100mm wide and also Gurney flap My little brakes have been the topic of many questions and much laughter at times (even by me how they keep performing so well) , but hey they have got me here and into the low 59 sec bracket they've and been great - but sometimes having to trail brake into corners through necessity as I try to brake later and not really be able to stop properly might end badly one day + I see hopefully some gains in times with later braking so bigger brake kit recently purchased.... not on yet will be very soon for testing Probably a bit bigger than necessary and wanted given my good results from previously smaller brake experiences (weight + heat) for sprints etc and I took some convincing but i'll not have to upgrade size again 365 x 32 disks I have Collie SESS long track sprint in a few weeks then a few more Barbs days to come id say

yes I have Ive done 500 - 550 hp on stock engines for 8 years (on the track) with standard gearboxs and also now 635h (so 700+bhp as op wants) , also have gone from std box to ppg dog box you got more chance of it lasting as a road driven car than track for sure but strain is strain Also there is no mention of fuel used - anything using normal PULP fuel going anywhere near those numbers forged or not is asking for trouble what the OP wants is what he wants... but Id say what most of us would do would be a responsive as possible 500rwhp stocker on e85 with std box and be nice to it most of the time with occasional thrashing

700 bhp = 550 - 600 rwhp dependant on driveline..........on e85 it might last a while as stock on pulp not long gearbox big jump from something that stock to something that will handle the power like PPG dogbox $11,500 AUD new might get start up warranty but thats bout it ...wouldnt expect anymore on a build

I used to come into here to find what people had tried and what was needed to run to get 'x' power so might help some looking to push rb25 and a real world example Comparison between old GTX3076 0.82 with spitfires and std CAS vs GTX3582 Gen ll 0.82 with Audi R8 coils and new CAS This is for circuit car - anything else I think the (new or old) GTX 3076 is pretty solid for 450 to high 500hp's Done on a roller : Old GTX 3076 0.82 setup on 24.5 psi - 550hp and 620nm - was awesome overall - good response - noses over at 7K New GTX3582 gen ll 0.82 on 23 psi - 570hp on 26 psi 663.5hp and 700nm - havent driven it yet but woke up with psi and wanted to keep making powas Relevant things: Rb25 built Poncams Audi R8 coils New CAS 6 Boost Bosch 1600 cc Injectiors Plasmaman plenum Koyo Rad PWR 500 x 300 intercooler 2" piping 3" straight through exh 45 Ext gate to screamer GTX3582 0.82 Gen ll PPG 5 speed dog box 4.11 diff ratio

quite a bit... this is 10.5 + 12 but using a s14 subframe so extra 5 = 8 mm wider so maybe a + 15mm wider than you want but still

Just got a heads up from someone local (perth) that has done a set of gtr ones and many for off roaders etc Seems more delve into it these days that used to I remember the times when you couldnt find anything Thanks!

Thread dig from a long long time ago but the title is relevant to me: R32 gtst rear drive shafts and CV's Is there any upgrade options that people know of other than GTR rear end or driveshaftshop.com ??

Maybe an inbetween is an Origin GT wing ? at least its well made I had what ended up being an ebay type CF wing that I was sold second hand as an Origin GT wing snap at 230kmph Previous to that had an actual Orgin GT wing and structurally superior to the ebay spec one re: aero.......... yes alot of info and rule of thumb can be found but usually takes lots and lots of rabbit hole searching as mentioned above

should be able to get a reliable 600rwhp out of an engine that size the question is..... how much money are you going to leave to spend on getting the power to the ground, going around corners and stopping the car

S13 rear subframe is the same as the r32 one while reinforcing etc etc is good if your going to do something like that before starting maybe look to upgrade to an s14 subframe with improved geometry (anti squat built in etc) and go from there. All your arms will still fit just need offset solid bushings as the holes are circa 10mm difference in spacing - you can also buy these from gktech Imo no need to upgrade axles, I have run over 500++ rwhp on any dyno for drift, circuit for over 10 years with only 1 axle being slightly bent (after 5 years, replaced and still going after another 5) no need to change diff also, just put a new centre into what you have... work out what you want to do with the car and buy appropriate centre ie: 1, 1.5 or 2 way and then nothing else has to change ie: axles (if you end up going s14 rear subframe you'll just have to change the backing plate of your current r32 gtst diff to a s14 or gtr rear cover So - do your subframe (but preferrably an s14 / r33 one) do your rear arms do your diff this will cover 95% of applications up to 500 ++ rwhp in the most effective, cost efficient, proven manner done

I had a full tote odds rb22 I put in my drift car when I thought it was too hard to go rb25 after my rb20 broke mostly ran the rb22 around mid high 400's lasted 4 years of alot of drifting It broke when I tried to put 550hp through it then went to standard rb25 using mostly the same gear. Rb22 built vs rb25 standard was like day and night not even close. Ie: Rb22 not worth it

I run a single entry on 400rwkw rb25 setup for 8 years successfully with no fuel related leaning issues. Tuner said the same if I do it again or change it to go twin entry with centre return for same reason you stated / safer. He also said he doesnt see any drop leaning issues across cylinders across mine on dyno so no need to change so.ething that isnt broken

Mines track car yes but not full hetik on the engine bay and relatively clean, you might see something there you think might suit battery moved canisters on the right near the intake for coolant overflow and p/s fluid brake lines are braided yes - one still runs across top neat wiring loom and tucking it away is key

Recently acquired a second set of track rims not as light etc as the Ce28rt's but good none the less Works MRO's 18 x 10.5 +20's in Matt black After having another session of issues / misfire and putting the car on the dyno worked out had a blocked injector. No other damage luckily. Banged a new set in and finally ready to go and hope thats it for the mechanical issues for a while ! Went to a Sprint day at Barbagallo - went well new PB by 0.9sec at 60.7 first in class and 3rd overall to a crazy radical and an F3 with a V8 in it which were both great to watch More seat time now with the aim of a 59 sec lap Video below is a 62.3, 61 flat and 60.7 chasing Simon around with his 700hp R32 GTR build thread on here we basically doing same lap times (cant seem to embed it ) https://youtu.be/kpXBp3IDJYw There is a time attack series on in W.A next year so will be competing in that, should be fun

I run a NPC sprung single they made for me to take 450 rwkw ( Im at 400 rwkw). Have it on circuit car runs and feels great no probs at all

Yeop most practical way would be tape the guard on the car put that wheel on and actually look and measure. Then you can actually see it The below is from experience not a calculator.... I dont know if your going to get a wheel, even custom.... to directly fit your gaurds with rocket bunny on them a spacer is going to be needed I have an s14 rear subframe, which is about 5 - 10mm a side wider than normal r32 subrame, and 18 x 10.5 +15's with 295 050's on the back of my R32 gtst. With 60mm over fenders on it sat just nicely ie: flushish. I also just had my car widened at the rear 70mm each side and the rim descibed about sits 10 mm ish inside the guard Rocket bunny fenders are 100 mm wider, and if you have a normal r32 subframe, youre looking at needing another approx. 45mm in offset over and above your 10.5" + 15's for it to sit just on flush, so 18 x 10.5" - 30 ish is what your going to need which either doesnt exist or going to cost $5K+

Few basic but interesting things re: new stuff and sideskirts etc Two events in a row I had a failure on a powersteering line at the rack the first time was pre new aero and all this work.... p/s fluid covered the whole underneath of the car right back to the diff, second time was the event straight after getting the new aero etc and not even the gearbox barely got any fluid on it but p/s fluid went right up the side of the car back to the rear quarters other than being a friggin hassle drama and a pain this 'on field test' with where the fluid went tells me the new side skirts are getting rid of a whole heap of air also just did a test and tune on Fri... was very crowded track and barely got any clear runs but just matched my PB which was previous to all the new stuff on older tyres a hotter day (rather than night) and on low boost (480hp vs 550hp to get its last time) so all seems promising at the moment like anything though seat time is key

Iface page can be followed at Brandis Racing R32 Skyline for those keen https://m.facebook.com/Brandis-Racing-R32-Skyline-435270253576977/ Unfortunately the track outting was cut short by a steering issue I had one sighting lap that was still relatively quick and half a hotlap time to get back in the seat and learn some new things about the car and just give it a go again

made it to the track the 1202 is with 30ltr fuel and 5 kg race gear Race weight for sprint = 1190kg thats car with 20 ltr fuel with me in it its +80kg (me) + 5 kg race gear so total weight 1275kg (she aint no S13 with sr20 thats for sure) this car starts at 1280 standard The before and after is below - this is with 45 ltr fuel in the surge and tank - total loss after all this = 38kg actual weight taken out was around 54kg main bits of extra weight added back for wing bracing, ally tubbing / filling in rear wheel well and then side skirts I calc at about 6kg each so put back in prox 16kg ish - everything still has to be strong and functional Before: After: Where did the weight come out ? Headlights: std headlights + indicators 6.3kg put in carbon blanks with ally brackets 1kg = save 5.3kg No Canards = 1.4kg with nuts and bolts Cut 3kg off back of the splitter Door cards: I have ally door cards on the front doors but they were powdercoated both sides combined weight 4kg went to 1mm carbon sheet = 400 g so saved 3.6kg Carbon intake: metal intake was 1.5kg this intake 300g saved 1.2kg and looks good I think Carbon boot: Standard boot I was running weighed 11kg - the carbon boot is just the skin and weight 1kg on the dot - saved 10kg The rest basically came out of the back taking out the doors and rear guard (right rear had heaps of bog in it), cutting rear bumper etc Roughly in total the wing, side skirts and splitter add approx 25kg of weight to the car Really weigh wise and budget etc I think 1160kg so another 30 kg out is feasible but that'll be it, front doors still weight 12kg each, bonnet is still china carbon at 8kgish not 3kg it can be, front splitter and bumper maybe looked at also At 1160kg, bumper the hp up to over 600 and some slightly bigger front brakes to cope Id say it'd be pretty wild - for me at least .... still running H pattern though

this has now been and gone but there was a couple of day turn around between picking the car up after all this and the next event the schedule was tight was a late night pickup prep for the track day and wrap started the next day thoughts on new colour ?? It looks way better in person I think and also in natural light but hey its done now so...

that escalated quickly !! from lets extend the side skirts to improve the profile of the car to ... na lets have a crack

chromoly wing bracing to the chassis, the 1st incarnation of the internal mounts that were done was sub-optimal - this makes it rock solid. The wing stays will be changed in time, Im not the hugest fan but they work for now rear guards are now approx 80mm wider than standard body each side - some other stuff goin on there too ... no parachute at the back here .... the fiberglass panel weighs just under 4kg... the gutted out door alone was 11kg cleaning up the front a bit... wont be running canards anymore lets face it they dont do much if anything really, cleaned up the flow with tyre spats. Can see carbon lights poking in also can see how wide the back is from this angle car will also be a new colour.... obviously previous colour is awesome but given the timeframe and the price of painting it that colour again its a no for now, and change is good right !?

Then this happened Unzipped Composites prepping spare boot for mould, such good work carbon treatment more weight reduction standard r32 gtst 4 door boot weighs 11kg ! hopefully get this down to sub 3kg (ended up being 1kg on the dot)

So I got bored.... and who needs 4 doors anyway Ultimately trying to advance the car without the more power bigger brakes sequential thing although thats probably the more tried and proven way.....but after this round of mods I think one of those will be next anyway will see how it all turns out but with a few other things happening body wise this is intended to turn it into one panel essentially deleting the rear door it will also replace the need for an overfender, reduce weight, better body line and something something Also carbon headlight blanks

agree with all above I dont know what power your going to run but I have personally run high 500's hp with rb25 in both drift and circuit in r32 4 door with all of the above and have never had a problem with axles etc (I know drag is a little different with launches) then if anything you can spend the same money getting s14 subframe + diif + below upgraded axles for a better outcome than circa $1000 - $1500 on the full rear GTR cradle http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/nissan/skyline/nissan-rwd-gt-s-and-variants-rear-axle-bar-upgrade-bars-only