bcozican

Got a new diff built S15 housing to match what my current one is Nismo GT pro 1.5 centre Neat gearbox new 4.11 gear set shot peened & polished Gktech rear cover for extra oil - takes 2.1 ltrs all up Moving from my current 3.7 gearing to 4.11 to make use of more engine and revs and bigger profile tyre means I was geared to break land speed records and the gear although was nice and 'safe' to roll around at relatively low revs really wasnt right my current diff is built almost to the same specs - will be going 4.11 also and be a spare, hopefully I never have to use it though!

I have all adjustable arms etc but yeop bolted up fine I now know of 2 more r32 gtst and an R32 GTR running r33 / r34 gtst (same) front knuckles also - so should bolt up fine * all have fully adjustable arms though

r33 gtst knuckle and r34 gtst abs hub

# carbon 😆 but yes always a compromise Other might have a diff opinion but Ive tried a 295/30 on a 10" was squishy, rolling mess through cornering didnt like

I actually bought this shell off a mate who was building this as a drift car thats why they where their in the first place Now im glad they are there because im at 18 x 10.5 - zero with 295/35/18 tyres I think the tubs actually only need to be half tubs / cut diagonal from strut - as regardless of how big wheel is it wont hit where it goes to at the front of the tub and also it would provide more room in the bay

this ... best and worst bit of pushing your car further and further ! this wasmine a long while ago now + oil remote has always been on drivers side outside the engine bay

killer wheels nearly bought those myself so many times

It was the first incarnation of this thought process The tyre shouldnt reach there any tyre deflection under load should be squish which is sideways so shouldn't need ? 🤷‍♂️ Also need to add bracing to the back of it for support

Ive been living with no ABS back to back will be hard considering I am making so many changes at once but obviously feel etc blaa blaa I also saw it (we all stretch for any justification in these circumstance's) as a combo thing coupling the traction control - so that halves the cost ??? bahaha

yes to traction control the sensors are there so why not - it'll be through Haltech - I know there are better out there but cant have everything... yet. How good it'll be will be interesting and up for debate till proven in a practical situation Interesting for those playing at home, apparently outboard sensors on the hubs vs using those in std gtr etc off the diff increases the accuracy of the data dramatically as there is so much chatter that comes off the diff

Says Mr. engine and upgrades himself 😄 Eh not here to be showy, but also got nothing to hide on my build have spent lots yeop and just hope I go faster lol I just got inspired and sort alot of info through reading about cars on this forum so put it out there in case someone has a question or might want to try something Ye I prob seem like ABS fan boi been talking about it for ages finally just threw it in the f*ck it bucket and bit the bullet

Where am I at ? as usual here now prob a dump of accumulated months and months I have decided to do some upgrades both to advance the car and also create a spares package to reduce time off track should something occur... all the theories there is engines, bodywork, technology and just stuff.... So pulling the car basically all apart New engine will be built to rb28 specs the current decent built rb25 will be a spare Head starts as a hydro rb25 head but full porting, supertech solid conversion + other goodies also the usual Kelfords etc etc I use a 5 - 0 Ignite trigger kit - they upgraded me to their new 36 -2 situation Updating the rad - the Koyo has done its job and moving to a PWR crossflow Ive been running 9.5" rims with 265/35 tyres up front to date - they have done the job but really are struggling and get torn to pieces so move to big boy tyres means alot of changes - going to 295/35 is a huge diameter jump and some width New TC105X 18 x 10.5 + 12s acquired A struggle is to fit the combo into the arch etc as it hit alot of places so we added some inner clearance modding the J arm and now all fits nicely Have gone the Motec dash route for data - not that i know what Im talking about but others do so they can use the info One of the upgrades is also Bosch MS ABS for braking and outward sensors for wheel speed allowing lots of data for the likes of traction control, the diff guy to get info and blaa blaa I think thats it for now

Was it you that bought my ce28sl's?? Suit the s13 nicely 👌 😅 Or you talking bike rims 😆

I dont know exact specifics etc but Matt Longhurst time attack car rb28 had twin g30 - 660s and did 1000 ponies so id so your in the ball park pending turbo size flow restriction and others

assuming not by the details in the discussion bit does Haltech upgraded software allow traction control through DBW?

Bypar.com

Might be easier given going rwd and dry sump at same time just source all r32 gtst front setup (which is also half s chassis stuff)) and put that in. Job done and no if buts or maybes I use gkteck drop knuckles in my r32 gtst 20mm drop assist suspension geometry with lower etc and 1.4kg per knuckle lighter than std Gonna need that traction control ive got all what you have setup and prob more aero etc i dont have tc yet but run boost by gear and dbw and using advan 050 295 semis getting power down in 2nd and 3rd out of corners with anything more than about 550rwhp is tough Good luck let us know !!! Btw the Seyamax Admix R32 gtr time attack car in Japan did what your thinking and went rwd

through recent research given this is my current situation though for me track with sequential so lag doesnt matter such such seems general summary give or take for various different engine combos and mods for rb26 to rb28 Garrett trades at 20%ish discount to peak power figures given on 30 - 32 psi and need big rear housing to reduce back pressure issues g35 900 = 700 - 720 rwhp can be pokeyish and g35 1050 = 750 - 800 rwhp prob pretty laggy both can fall over at the top a bit Precision at 10%ish discount to power given at 30 - 32psi = high 700's to low 800's apparently pretty much hit the mark on the dot peak power around 35 - 36% psi - need biggish rear housing lag not too bad - wont fall over so from 3 given here you either go a punchy 700hp with g35 900 with 1.01 or 1.21 rear or 800 hp with 6466 Precision with 1.01

ive only ever done it on r32 with adj upper camber arm and we just used to do 20/25mm dont know how far your camber tops will take you

you'll need more than 3.5 deg for sure - extend the LCAs by boxing them out 20mm or I think S14 or R33 are 10 - 15mm longer standard - or both Wont effect clearance as its pulling it from the bottom - unless you extend the LCA so much you can pull the camber across also causing some clearence but I dont think you'll get that much outta it even at max

i dont mind the bigger flares look if you blend them in I had them on my rear only and got used to them pretty quickly If you got the time, effort, money and desire I think bigger guards are the way forward How much front camber you got on there ? surely 4 deg ++ is needed

Dont forget rotational mass weight saving is 3 to 1 also But yes theoretically good, strong , light wheels for sure but also ive still buckles "best jap wheels" and sigh The overall combo youre building is strong 💪

2.9 secs is a huge pickup in time! Without knowing specs on car and setup Tyres Suspension tuning, make front softer and or/ rear harder Diffs Other than that just driving line and style

looks good, maybe a bit of trial and error if you look back in pics I had a very similar setup to that just with a panel across the top of the intercooler and worked well that'll be alot of direct air volume going through there at speed - maybe do the bit by bit like it did also depends what the car is for etc my air guide entry below is tiny but expands up over the top of the intercooler into the exact same size your have showing and I can do 5 hard laps at 25 psi circa 590 rwhp no probs