bcozican

while we're rolling little updates Car is plumbed up with new hotside New full car wiring, motec system with keypad etc 90% done / nearly complete - added EGTs along the way this thing has more sensors than the NASA space station upgraded gear position sensor as couldnt control auto blip good enough Found Id bent the front subframe - so got new one plus braced + new front LCA/ castor combo - this was within 4 events of installing and using ABS after it being fine for years so assume its extra braking load Had to increase the fuel system now going with intake surge with 1 x lift and 3 x pumps walbro New aero being put on right now plus a million other things might even get to drive this thing soon 🙄😅 Id say it should turn a tyre when we turn up the wick but spose the whole point is to not too haha how all this is going to end up I dont know Im just a guy having a crack at going fast

Id say its because as you mentioned 1) for tarmac 2) because the gold MCA's have a different builder, parts and methodology (ie: valving) around them to all the others produced with the MCA brand 3) because we are trying to keep mine in a max 50mm suspension travel range 🤪

Proper aero and aero suspension is very specific and different to conventional setups: Going back to the start of my car build: I think MCA reds come out valved too lightly and are valved linearly and with the recommended spring rates are too soft - so people including myself up the spring rates and loose some control trying to balance out the softer valving MCA Reds out the box I think were 10 or 11 front and 6 or 7 kg rear - was too soft me me even with no aero - even at that for a normal car it was too soft for me I went to 13kg front and 8kg rear pretty quick As I added Topstage rear wing, then ally front splitter then sideskirts etc ended up at the same valving but 16kg front with dampners on hard 3/4 and 10 kg rear at dampners hard 3/4 - it didnt handle great/ chewed tyres etc Then I got my first proper carbon front splitter with good downforce - with the above setup I plowed it into the ground and destroyed it within 2 laps Cue the people that actually know what they are talking about: You cant keep Aero cars up with spring rates - you cant put enough spring in them to keep them up in the first place and then if you can it'll handle like a brick anyway: Without giving IP away: My cars valving is now progressive - soft initially moving to harder with compression My spring rates are back to the range I started with / a normal car would be recommended The car sits on a combination of hard packers and progressive poly bump stops after a certain amount of suspension travel that only allows the car to go so low - which what keeps it off the ground The suspension travel - droop etc is all limited to a smaller specific range by spring perch/ bump stops and various other things Essentially trying to get the best of both worlds making it compliant / softer in slow non aero corners for mechanical grip and progressively harder to sit on full hard bump stops to keep it off the ground

Yeah mate. Right now murray has revalved etc the mca reds similar too / essentially mca gold without remote canisters But have been through different incarnations of mca reds through the course of the journey. But mostly was playing spring rates over recommended early on

I had vct removed with big cams on my previous track rb25 build as tuner didnt like it and said it was running in higher rpm so didnt need If running it on track hard at higher rpm mostly avg joe like me prob wont know / feel much diff unless on really tight track and then you just go down a gear but I had sequential But if still manual and not track vct extremely still beneficial Rb26s dont have vct and seem to still go good Rather have it than not though but not a complete deal breaker depending

Nice. Thats what I was going to get but at the time he couldnt get cores and said didnt know when he vould get me one

https://shop.pwr.com.au/55mm-2-pass-crossflow-radiator-nissan-skyline-r32 55mm Crossflow is what I got went from 42mm (i think) typical koyo koyo was fine but started to struggle on my setup as I pushed it harder - above cooler change has done the job well since no probs

Koyo still decent do most jobs - $700 Recently wen PWR crossflow circa $1100 found big difference in cooling

Didnt get to use the new artec/ garrett combo those invloved with the car preferred to use what has been tried and proven combo for them to get 'x' result For power, response/ powerband, boost control and emap and be running this higher in the rev range than previously

The car is getting advanced at a rapidly slow pace but getting there Now moved to new new hotside to a 6 boob T4 divided flange, with Precision 6780 with 1.15 rear divided T4 flange and 60mm gate and as always - nothing is easy because racecar 🙄

No stock engine is reliable up there but it can be on the edge of reliable if your not belting on the track 24/7 and you have the oil situation sorted You dont need cams for anything really but it makes it more efficient and effective But yes on the edge at that power level where they may or may not be advantageous vs response etc 350rwkw ish is perfect and very fast car for street and even track if you set it up for that As someone who put a good 5 holes in the side of stock bottom end blocks its usually either the rods/ rod bolts that go or the bearings due to insufficient oil system And then after all this your going to have to have your tuna manage your torque because your going to want to mash your foot on the loud pedal and it has to not knock the tyres off to go fast fwd not nowhere

Ran these on my track car for years. Good construction etc as you stated and few little quirks to getting everything to fit but are good and solid. One things is I found they chewed tyres because of the ackerman when cornering, this experience is track only related

Yeop sure did. Awesome sauce glad he had some left! You get level 2 or 3 logging?

As above Selling brand new pair of Kelford 182 - S Cams for Rb26 or non vct Rb25 - $850 Pair of brand new black PRP adj Cam Gears with alloy outter $450 pair RB26 Cam Cover powder coated black In Perth

I dont actually know yet, as undefined as it is, I think its when the combination of time, effort and $ vs its ability to fulfil my personal drive / challenge to go fast or get better and the want to build and maintain what I consider to be a pretty cool car...tips on the negative decent crash and Im done dont like it that much to rebuild 😅 na more of Tassie Mode Agree though yeah about neo head spec with vct Yes I have alot of his setup and IP in mine and now his old Rb2.7 billet. He has developed a proven package that just works and actually just gives a sh*t and wants people to go fast Along with the guys running my car over here now who are awesome its a solid team

crazy how that works hey ... can you guess who helps me develop my car ? to be honest just challenge myself .....which in my current chosen discipline is just go as fast as possible probably until Ive reached my limit, something happens that I dont want to do it anymore or change direction Will apply for WTAC '23 and aim to drive some different tracks over time to get out of little old Perth

Updating to a Motec M150 GPRP Pro package with all the gear to try and manage this thing moving forward and help a rank amateur like myself to extract the most I can out of this car eventually this is going to pretty much require a full car rewire but given the first incarnation of the car was 8 years ago with just a basic package you know what its like when you start adding this and splicing that etc everything just gets outdated and messy. This will go in very soon and be coupled with a new hot side of Artec exh mani and G35 1050 thats been sitting on the shelf for a while

Billet: 60 deg oil and water and send it Other thing to consider is cast blocks other than potential cracking and splitting bores which is just a flip of a coin is keeping the head on. 11mm head studs vs 1/2" needed to keep a head on properly and not really enough material in the cast blocks to keep 1/2" safe n sound for too long Btw talking consistant big power applications

I have this head drain on my engine setup. It was already on the complete engine I bought when I got it. We used the oil drain line to the sump and blocked the water line, others that run the same setup mine is based off for motorsport use and recommend the water line. Btw - I have a spare brand new one for sale if you want it 😄

^^ twas my experience also like for like cars only difference was greddy vs my plasmaman topmount as similar result My old plasmaman seems to still be doing the job 🙃 just not as cool these days

Also just remembered 🤪 I have this kit on my current engine setup as I run the dry sump belt inclusive of the P/s pump many high HP and revving Rb's running this setup on track

I did this on my drift car with rb25det long time before this fancy stuff came out I used an offset rb30 idler situation but 100% solved my belt spitting problems

Ive had that plenum on forever since there wasnt many options and from my experience Ive seen better torque and similar power with nearly every incarnation of diff setups Ive had along the way vs similar .. and then you calcuate the $ spend vs any marginal benefit of the newer ones also... disclaimer on sub 600hp setups Tbh now... its just a $ elsewhere first thing to improve the car other places and get it to the track I do want to change it though just because But when one of the better rb builders and tuners around atm says its completely fine and wont stop you making everything we'll need... it will stay at the back of the list for now Torque mapping just used to get the engine up to speed as quick as possible / inputting desired torque level with being within the tyre slip window and not blowing the tyres off for the turbo taking over for the power in higher rpm This plenum will still let us do all that This will live between 5k to 8.5k rpm and new turbo combo 5 to 9k so response as such not needed but its also there If i stuff it 😆

thats says and covers I think 😅 thanks was hetic for sure 100% agree I think most of us would agree racing is racing but without mates there and helping and all kinds of things we'd be stuffed half the time and it would be as good either Im still blown away at how much effort gets put in so I can go race while this seems like a big flashy car etc and might well be, this is not a cheque book workshop build (as such) we did 70% of this in my garage at home and then when at the workshop I played courier, cleaner and tool passer etc all late into the night there with them like you guys would ... you put in the effort yourself and look after those that help you and it goes along way ! he does .... and alot of other things also. very knowledgeable and helpful (for the right people ha) and has been a huge help in the recent development of the car over and above just all the shiney bits yeah I did question it years ago when it was done but went with what I was given now much better amazing the difference in VCT and small cams (260 poncams) vs no VCT and big cams (278 kelfords) drivability especially out of corners with the mapping etc vs throttle blaa blaaa is so much better

thanks ! yeah they did change the throttle / pedal situation to prob somewhat what youve just outlined, didnt have a chance to get into details yet so much going on its extremely drivable compared to what Ive had previously even at significantly more HP now Im used to having to feather onto the throttle coming out of corners due to the ramp up etc but dont have to now so will have to learn to get onto throttle earlier on apex not after this is with a borrowed Motec M130 also new M150 with pro torque mapping etc package incoming Below is like for like new vs old motor biggest things I think being higher compression, smaller cams and adding back VCT that I didnt have before as last tuner took it out