bcozican

was a gkteck fan (only because I couldnt source a stocko one) and stock shroud Ive never run a electric fan so cant comment from personal experience even back when I was drifting I still ran stock fan and shroud - theory over here is nissan spent alot of money on r&d to get that stuff right maybe moreso than an after market option so we'll run with that fans really only needed for cooler car in pits or at very low speed if you have decent ducting etc other than that its really just drag as air moving in goes faster than fan - shroud again is great and no probs as many fast cars inc. mine have done fine with it but really is drag some ive seen have just run small electric fan that turns on via ecu at certain temps enough to keep it cooler but small enough to not hinder air movement through the rad properly

not now no - the air guiding etc @Unzipped Compositescreated is awesome and has done the job well but yes.... I was running fan and shroud up until recently and all my previous incarnations of the car - we took it away in stages to make sure everything worked ok - so took shroud off, then fan

Absolutely 100% its a massive part of the equation along with the million other things that have to come together over time to go right and still in the end there is luck involved

thanks mate I'lm all about the socials hahaha not really its more a requirement laps got more in we think there is about 1 sec in it with current setup 3 glaring errors - broke too early into turn 1 down , miss shift somehow down back straight, off boost on last cnr T7

😅 when your mate / aero / composite guy is keen Can follow more updates on iface: Brandis Racing R32 Skyline or Insta: brandis_racing So recently I won WA Time Attack - Overall winner won the whole thing Set a lap time of 57.97 sec which was only 2 tenths off the lap record for a tin top on semi's - we'll have that record soon! To give some perspective for people using the standard V8SC best times at each track this would put us at a 1.338 at SMSP and 7th in open class last event at WTAC Was quite a decent lead up to the event with decent testing and runs few things went wrong but nothing major, this was the first time we'd run the car on new tyres and max power so alot to learn still and alot more in the car/ driver combo some pics from the day : Some other pics in lead up to event Engine bay and splitter: From a twlight prac a few weeks before: If anyone wants to know anything about the car just ask !

Negative not one ding so far

Thats because your running 60's ya big unit ! Fast car, big horses, and Perth summer weather What you posted is great option Also you know mine as per below can assist there is you want or get a 'Brake Duct Inlet' plastic to match your cooler or have Rob fab ally one also an inlet attach to the front bumper where air gap is

No plans for de aeration got told it was ok through all testing etc 🤷‍♂️

Yeah few ways to do it Ive been told Im running it as been directed by the supplier of the whole kit who has this system running on some of the biggest n best rb's in the country so I'll listen Initially the guys putting the kit on didnt do the line back to tank just put a breather on one of the crankcase covers as they run very successful sr engines like that but in typical rb fashion it still spat oil out

One cam cover is blocked, the other - 12 is run from the cover all the way back to the tank at the top. The tank is vented separately Have not measured vac etc / im sure they did something on setup as they change a spring etc but thats above my pay grade 😃

It really is... its been 2 years since I ran an event without something breaking or going wrong. Every car person knows no matter at what level or passion when your car is doing what you want it to its killer This dry sump setup was about 8K inc everything then its plus lines and fitting and labour - not a cheap exercise This sponsorship and others, Ive been sponsored before when drifting ADGP by Hankook etc, has always come about by an infliction point either and incident that lead to a conversation, someone I know has recommended or similar. One thing that has been apparent is that each time Ive been told is because I turn up to alot of events ( I do events + go to some car shows etc), I have a presentable car thats kept at a high level and its always put on the track as much as possible even when its broken I fix it and get back out there and also, Im presentable and when talking to them always talk about what they can get not when I can get. Also Im usually competing at a decent level. .......... and then on top of that luck, as I know alot of people do that and Im not that special ! I dont put graphics on my car unless is a certain amount - I have 3 tiers of spono vs coverage I an willing to provide etc and those amounts are figures that mean something significant enough to me for me to represent someone and impact my wallet. Everyones will be different

Alright update time I'll 100% forget things but as lots has happened ..... summary version goes New carbon bonnet by @Unzipped Compositeswith vents - only weighs 3kg with everything saved over 8kg in total and increased cooling Got my own hard wired Dorian Increasing track time to iron out issues two major issues: 1) suspension wasnt up to the task we kept hitting spliiter into the ground .... took it out sent it off to specialist tried it again didnt get the setting right in time, mm's matter !! and broke my splitter smashing it into the ground, the fireworks from the Ti skid plates was super cool as it was at night but extremely painful for me Got another splitter build and more / different suspension tuning - we have it nailed now this is an art in itself and learnt massive amounts! 2) even testing on Nankangs and the suspension not right yet previous to the fix we couldnt hold oil pressure through some of the corners using all good wet sump gear and ecu tricks > so dry sump it was Throughout this I was very fortunate to be able to pick up sponsorship from Autopro, Raceworks and Penrite So back to the track we go for more testing - things went well Time to turn up to wick - was running 400hp though all this banged some pounds into it Its been a long road but we finally have put together 2 full sessions of testing / practice running. The car has run faultlessly and quickly have got a handle on it but still more to come through seat time and setup. Already set a new PB by a decent margin on pretty shagged tyres and aiming for more Its starting to feel worth it And onwards we go

I dont know about any of that either and dont care to - get the car to 80% right before worrying about being so specific what I concentrate on 272 recommended by them for me Im running bigger hp, squential, no vct for a time attack car that should be never off boost but as said all that is taken care of from kelford now anyway - contact - get recommendation - install

Poncams initially as it was an easy and good option and was a case of this + this + that = 'x' power as a tried and true method then I just kept carrying the over into each new engine Recently 272 Kelfords are in and have the best options / service imo

there is no guarantees at all to be honest if you cant afford to rebuild a built engine dont start the first time whether you spend the $ is up to you - the question has come up a few times and yet to make a decision so Id say prob not but its all relative to people and for what purpose reduce you power goals put a head gasket, head studs and cams in run e85 and 20 pst get 500 rwhp and it'll last for a good while if you treat it right also if youre using just on the street big difference to on the track - total different loads put on the car pushing 600 rwhp built or not always going to shorter the life of the engine by a long way - 500 different story No - no gearbox solutions / upgrades that'll worth and are cheap but a stock box will handle it if you treat it 'gentler' especially snap changing between 3rd and 4th Ive been racing Rb's for 13 years from stock rb20 to rb22 stroker, stock rb25 and built rb25 200 hp to 650 hp (most around the 500 - 550 mark) - I belt them they last... until they dont and you go again

yeah straight through 3" all the way through when I first built the car I built it all for response at your desired power level i got the smallest PWR flipped for shorter piping intercooler 2.5" inlet outlet they said would take up to 600hp and up till now 2.5" cooler piping as well still got me 650hps but obv could be better flow and now would go a bit bigger etc alot more people know way more than me as above. maybe im not the best tech example, that seems to happen with me, but it somehow just works and still gets there. @Unzipped Compositescan vouch for that ha

This is mine its 3" there is a gap at back of chassis rails that gives you more clearance

was full noise down front straight next to the pit wall so good to keep it straight !

think it was a combination of things. Camber wear not that bad at all the tyres were only 3 events old but did sit stored for 18mths and since talking to people another major factor seems to be we started the tyre pressure too low cold which 050s are notorious for chewing sidewalls quickly when this happens. + I spose new front wing also

After 12 months of a rebuild was so close in Dec - after a quick run in on the track at low boost we thought things were on the high end of temps when running but within range so went ahead with ramping up the power on the dyno - found a crack in the block 😌 this is prob the cause of all my dramas when I last ran But straight into rebuilding another bottom end adding to this build - replaced the poncams with 272 kelfords - removed VCT - went DBW - added high volume adj pump - locally made from High Speed Engineering great bit of gear Ran this back up on dyno etc etc all looked alot better this time running 15psi circa 400hp - finally back to the track for another test Car weighed in at 1210 - this car has an extensive cage so quite heavy - this was with 40 ltr fuel With my ce28sl on, new carbon panel from Unzipped coming this week and 15 ltr for a 3 lap sprint this should come down to 1185ish The test was overall a success car ran really well, alot to learn to drive it properly but will get there It threw a p/s belt in one session fixed that and out again Then ... burst a the front left tyre down the front straight - was a bit knarley.. managed to pull it up ok and no real damage so that was it for the night Overall limited laps but successful and a long way to getting back to regular track time Good to have a smile at the end of the day from driver ... and car

Well done man. Looks friggin killer Glad its made you happy again. All worth it!

Mine is a track only car doing time attack/ sprints. Im in w.a also I ran a stock box at up to 480 - 550hp for about 2 years before it went. Then ran ppg dog box 550 - 635 it was fine. Now sequential Its usually 3rd to 4th gear changes that'll kill em so smoother/ touch slower through there will help Stock cams may do it cant say tbh as ive always had poncams now kelfords but they would help for sure. Also your spending 20k on an engine etc to get the good stuff as much as it hurts add cams now and if you take few things out as per above the price is nearly covered anyway . Just a thgt I used to run ID1000s to 550hp when needed to go bigger now use the bosch moto 1650s as above and the fine

Who is your tuner / getting the engine built through Can I ask why a neo instead of a normal rb25? sounds like you have an s2 in there already. If its for the solid head great and all but not really needed alot of tough non neo rb25s going around I this going to be for a street or track car ? sounds like the street if so gotta ask yourself if 500 maybe 550hp is enough ? at 500 with a good condition stock engine with all the good bolt on bits, headgasket, headstuds and cams it should be able to last a fair long while. Not telling you how to spend your money btw Good list but you forgot cams unless i missed it - poncams will do the job - Kelford better and get matching springs Also intercooler and rad should be good The GTX3076 at 550 will be OK at 600 pushing it ( in real life). I have all that stuff and a GTX3582 Gen ll at 25/26 psi ish gets me 635 rwhp so you'll be pushing 2 bar with the 3076 to get 600hp Stock box might or might not handle that power for a while but basically its gonna go - and then you have to find a new one or get a ppg or similar for $ but also whats the points in having 600 rwhp if you arent gonna give it herbs to save the gearbox?

5th is 100% fine Ive got a decent level track skyline with 550 hp++ and when I was driving it with stock box using 5th over and over again topping out in mid 245 kmphs with no problems As said 3rd is usually one that breaks but mainly found that on drift cars ... in circuit cars its the 3rd to 4th gear change that kills it (whatever it munches in there) so as much as its nice to bang through that be a millisecond slower and smoother and itll last alot longer

no nothing literally as explained above