bcozican

Mines track car yes but not full hetik on the engine bay and relatively clean, you might see something there you think might suit battery moved canisters on the right near the intake for coolant overflow and p/s fluid brake lines are braided yes - one still runs across top neat wiring loom and tucking it away is key

Recently acquired a second set of track rims not as light etc as the Ce28rt's but good none the less Works MRO's 18 x 10.5 +20's in Matt black After having another session of issues / misfire and putting the car on the dyno worked out had a blocked injector. No other damage luckily. Banged a new set in and finally ready to go and hope thats it for the mechanical issues for a while ! Went to a Sprint day at Barbagallo - went well new PB by 0.9sec at 60.7 first in class and 3rd overall to a crazy radical and an F3 with a V8 in it which were both great to watch More seat time now with the aim of a 59 sec lap Video below is a 62.3, 61 flat and 60.7 chasing Simon around with his 700hp R32 GTR build thread on here we basically doing same lap times (cant seem to embed it ) https://youtu.be/kpXBp3IDJYw There is a time attack series on in W.A next year so will be competing in that, should be fun

I run a NPC sprung single they made for me to take 450 rwkw ( Im at 400 rwkw). Have it on circuit car runs and feels great no probs at all

Yeop most practical way would be tape the guard on the car put that wheel on and actually look and measure. Then you can actually see it The below is from experience not a calculator.... I dont know if your going to get a wheel, even custom.... to directly fit your gaurds with rocket bunny on them a spacer is going to be needed I have an s14 rear subframe, which is about 5 - 10mm a side wider than normal r32 subrame, and 18 x 10.5 +15's with 295 050's on the back of my R32 gtst. With 60mm over fenders on it sat just nicely ie: flushish. I also just had my car widened at the rear 70mm each side and the rim descibed about sits 10 mm ish inside the guard Rocket bunny fenders are 100 mm wider, and if you have a normal r32 subframe, youre looking at needing another approx. 45mm in offset over and above your 10.5" + 15's for it to sit just on flush, so 18 x 10.5" - 30 ish is what your going to need which either doesnt exist or going to cost $5K+

Few basic but interesting things re: new stuff and sideskirts etc Two events in a row I had a failure on a powersteering line at the rack the first time was pre new aero and all this work.... p/s fluid covered the whole underneath of the car right back to the diff, second time was the event straight after getting the new aero etc and not even the gearbox barely got any fluid on it but p/s fluid went right up the side of the car back to the rear quarters other than being a friggin hassle drama and a pain this 'on field test' with where the fluid went tells me the new side skirts are getting rid of a whole heap of air also just did a test and tune on Fri... was very crowded track and barely got any clear runs but just matched my PB which was previous to all the new stuff on older tyres a hotter day (rather than night) and on low boost (480hp vs 550hp to get its last time) so all seems promising at the moment like anything though seat time is key

Iface page can be followed at Brandis Racing R32 Skyline for those keen https://m.facebook.com/Brandis-Racing-R32-Skyline-435270253576977/ Unfortunately the track outting was cut short by a steering issue I had one sighting lap that was still relatively quick and half a hotlap time to get back in the seat and learn some new things about the car and just give it a go again

made it to the track the 1202 is with 30ltr fuel and 5 kg race gear Race weight for sprint = 1190kg thats car with 20 ltr fuel with me in it its +80kg (me) + 5 kg race gear so total weight 1275kg (she aint no S13 with sr20 thats for sure) this car starts at 1280 standard The before and after is below - this is with 45 ltr fuel in the surge and tank - total loss after all this = 38kg actual weight taken out was around 54kg main bits of extra weight added back for wing bracing, ally tubbing / filling in rear wheel well and then side skirts I calc at about 6kg each so put back in prox 16kg ish - everything still has to be strong and functional Before: After: Where did the weight come out ? Headlights: std headlights + indicators 6.3kg put in carbon blanks with ally brackets 1kg = save 5.3kg No Canards = 1.4kg with nuts and bolts Cut 3kg off back of the splitter Door cards: I have ally door cards on the front doors but they were powdercoated both sides combined weight 4kg went to 1mm carbon sheet = 400 g so saved 3.6kg Carbon intake: metal intake was 1.5kg this intake 300g saved 1.2kg and looks good I think Carbon boot: Standard boot I was running weighed 11kg - the carbon boot is just the skin and weight 1kg on the dot - saved 10kg The rest basically came out of the back taking out the doors and rear guard (right rear had heaps of bog in it), cutting rear bumper etc Roughly in total the wing, side skirts and splitter add approx 25kg of weight to the car Really weigh wise and budget etc I think 1160kg so another 30 kg out is feasible but that'll be it, front doors still weight 12kg each, bonnet is still china carbon at 8kgish not 3kg it can be, front splitter and bumper maybe looked at also At 1160kg, bumper the hp up to over 600 and some slightly bigger front brakes to cope Id say it'd be pretty wild - for me at least .... still running H pattern though

this has now been and gone but there was a couple of day turn around between picking the car up after all this and the next event the schedule was tight was a late night pickup prep for the track day and wrap started the next day thoughts on new colour ?? It looks way better in person I think and also in natural light but hey its done now so...

that escalated quickly !! from lets extend the side skirts to improve the profile of the car to ... na lets have a crack

chromoly wing bracing to the chassis, the 1st incarnation of the internal mounts that were done was sub-optimal - this makes it rock solid. The wing stays will be changed in time, Im not the hugest fan but they work for now rear guards are now approx 80mm wider than standard body each side - some other stuff goin on there too ... no parachute at the back here .... the fiberglass panel weighs just under 4kg... the gutted out door alone was 11kg cleaning up the front a bit... wont be running canards anymore lets face it they dont do much if anything really, cleaned up the flow with tyre spats. Can see carbon lights poking in also can see how wide the back is from this angle car will also be a new colour.... obviously previous colour is awesome but given the timeframe and the price of painting it that colour again its a no for now, and change is good right !?

Then this happened Unzipped Composites prepping spare boot for mould, such good work carbon treatment more weight reduction standard r32 gtst 4 door boot weighs 11kg ! hopefully get this down to sub 3kg (ended up being 1kg on the dot)

So I got bored.... and who needs 4 doors anyway Ultimately trying to advance the car without the more power bigger brakes sequential thing although thats probably the more tried and proven way.....but after this round of mods I think one of those will be next anyway will see how it all turns out but with a few other things happening body wise this is intended to turn it into one panel essentially deleting the rear door it will also replace the need for an overfender, reduce weight, better body line and something something Also carbon headlight blanks

agree with all above I dont know what power your going to run but I have personally run high 500's hp with rb25 in both drift and circuit in r32 4 door with all of the above and have never had a problem with axles etc (I know drag is a little different with launches) then if anything you can spend the same money getting s14 subframe + diif + below upgraded axles for a better outcome than circa $1000 - $1500 on the full rear GTR cradle http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/nissan/skyline/nissan-rwd-gt-s-and-variants-rear-axle-bar-upgrade-bars-only

you mean moving the mounting point of the rear LCA down to flatten it out etc ?? Ive done this to my track car. Totally unnecessary on a road car most track cars dont even do this mod

other thing to consider is in reality is it a necessity of go that big on brakes with the light s13 and not huge power ie: not just the caliper but if you go the EVO 350mm rotor they are heavier and more expensive and the brake pads are more expensive from my knowledge With the GTR stuff smaller 324mm rotor and brake pads = little lighter and for the same money can get better stuff (only marginal but still counts) For reference Im running r34 brembo's all round with BMC50 all be it with Project Mu 2 piece rotors and PMU H16 03 pads and it pulls my 1300kg total R32 gtst very well, admitted its on their limits really but still does the job well and im running 560hp and full tote odds. I went the smaller brakes but the best rotors and pads I could for the money instead

better quality semi's ? Hankook's the next step up in quality and price. my experience with AR1's to new set of 050's is circa 1 - 1.5 sec difference over a 61 - 62 sec lap never been involved in full slicks before but would think unless go full soft option getting heat into them to take full advantage would be a problem then at the proper soft level they would last long at all !??

Thanks. Yeah dog box just have to get used to shifting a little differently and be a bit quicker and bang it through a bit more, cleaned the teeth a few times but all good now MCA's get the tick from me. I still haven't optimized the setup I dont think even after changing out the initial spring rates and adjusting the height a bit after some initial testing... whether its front spring rate or adding some sway bars over stock I decided to not play with it for a while and just drive the nuts off it and it definitely lets me do that with great results still ... its very compliant on the track in R32 the only previous experience was HSD's and then TIENs and miles better than even the TIEN's All be it in different car being an s14, so I spose not apples with apples I have driven on KW V3's and a Bilstein package - for mine Reds beat the Bilstien package that was in it and about on par with KW's give or take

Infinite Time Attack night at barbs has happened... I only got 4 hot laps in ... but I did do a new PB of 61.6 on the second lap of the night which is great, then I spat a powersteering hose near the rack that couldnt be fixed on the night so had to pack up Great to get a good time the car etc felt great, disappointing not to be able to push it further on the night as I have to say there is a good amount left in it as the car currently stands which I didnt think there would be to be honest Now the chase is on for a 60 sec lap Also previous weekend was back at Antilag Supercruise in collie : again a heap of track time, good fun, good people I got to take passengers out which was fun also as dont do that much. Had to stiffen the suspension up to hardest to accommodate passenger and old tyres which not optimal but still fun and good little track to test your skills on and belt around. Managed a 49.2 which is not too shabby.... like everyone else cant wait for the long track ! The bump is gone now, for now at least, here is an ode to it from the weekend things got a bit loose sometimes same same !?

Been a while... stuff and things really Belt throwing activities got solved by putting standard balancer back on Been doing some events but not a huge amount really and no huge advancements in the car just little things here and there ... bit boring really. Might have to do something soon Car is running 560hp 680 nm on 24.5ish psi Once everything was in a running, went to last Antilag Supercruise.... didnt get many laps was blowing oil (finally got it sorted overfilling sump etc) as new sump acted differently Been doing a few Infinite time attack nights All the thoughts and analysis... 'trying to work out how to get some speed out of this thing' quote Days of thunder spec Managed a 62.4 last time out with Nankangs on the front and bald 050's on the rear. Work those little brakes hard still, they hold on .... just Also went to Kebabs and Cars night... good night and turn out, reminded me 1) of the old days and 2) now how old I am Won a prize and all ! Going to Antilag Supercruise again this sat should be fun and then to Infinite time attack Thursday night , might have new tyres on ... After that dunno, not really satisfied...but dont know what with or what to do next

delay in updates but ..... The happenings...All was finished and put together. Got it dyno'd last week on Hyperdrive roller dyno made 430hp on 17psi low boost and 498hp at 22psi on high boost. Had it at the tuning day at Barbs yesterday to run in the new brakes and see any teething issues.It flipped the p/s belt 4 times on high revs giving me some oh shit moments, after that I then took the 75% approach to get some laps in steering wasn't optimal so have to work on that.Laps went well mainly tried a few things and getting used to gearbox. Gearbox is great on upshift pretty brutal shifting down. Shift light has been setup which does help Vbox has also been hooked up but had too many other things to concentrate on to learn how to use it yet.Will get steering sorted next event is 19th Oct - will be on old tyres but be good to have another hitout.After a couple of successful outings will go back to dyno and wind a few more psi into it

Ive run a 295 050 on a 10" rim on the track many times, front and back 'bugle' a tiny bit but had no problems with them at all with wear or feel etc

Nope i have r34 brembos on my r32 gtst direct fit 12mm bolts just the fronts 14mm

Think they are the same they will fit yes but I used s14 ones.....depending on your cars other suspension ie: adjustable or stock it may cause problems. either way you'll need a wheel alignment when you put them in They are 10 - 15mm longer than standard r32 gtst hence, without any other adjustment and all other things remaining equal, you'll be running more camber and your castor rods may not be long enough

Something to consider for the non W.A guys ... while dyno's are dyno's and numbers are number etc etc the C - Red dyno is notorious for being the lowest reading roller over here.

to give you a real life example on a track car with 'everything' I have retained a gtx3076 0.82 rear on my car for near 5/ 6 years now - 4 years of drift and near 2 years of sprint / time attack. I run it on 6 boost 3" exhaust stock engine till now I just put forged in, pon cams and 1000cc ID's 44mm ext wastegate on e85 Ive had no probs with the turbo and its still in great nick, I think there are better options out there now I just don't want to sell this one for nothing and fork out for a new setup just yet is the reason for keeping it so long and keep spending money just being on the track rather than change in W.A we run pretty smallish 50 - 60 sec tracks not like SMSP etc so response can help anyway or that's what Im telling myself The response / punch is definitely there I run a pretty high grip rear setup both suspension, tyre and rear wing. Have to control the traction even with all that with the right foot other wise anything under 4th gear still turns the tyres On hub dyno my last result before I blew the engine was 550hp and 660nm at 23.5psi the tuner say there was prob about 2 more psi in it and that's it. Its full boost by 4000 max torque at 4500 max hp at 7000 That could be limited by a few things though like my 2.5" intercooler piping and only 500 x 300 intercooler (for response) Just put new forged engine in haven't turned up the wick really yet but on a different roller dyno made 500hp and 585nm on 22psi after a few more track outings we are going to go to 25psi and by extrapolating we expect somewhere around 530 - 540 and 630nm you'll hit your 400 rwkw @ 25psi ish pending dyno's (definitely hub and i'll achieve this on a roller too) But I think that's all it has in it and that's running it at 98% type thing