bcozican

awesome! whats the weight

completely comes down to budget I run the same 'GTR offset' I have Rays Ce28rt race black edition 9.5kgish for a 10.5 - biggest best forged light weight blaa blaa all the rest with the $$ to boot - ....still warped two rims and i cant even remember when I hit anything to do it but prob a ripple strip in there somewhere but the point being cans till happen got Works MRO's - 11.5/8kg for a 10.5" - half the price of above - not forged etc - run fine and no problems Wedsport TC105x are great bang for buck in between the two types above $ wise - not forged but flowformed or whatever and super light at 8.5kg ish for 10.5" and where id put my money now but as per first line - comes down to budget

ADR street spec engineer approved You want?

thanks awesome man looks great alot of work there ... keep the 30 year old r chassis alive !🙂

Getting to the end of the ver. 3 upgrade to the car now Have had a run in session for checks etc all went well Martin from @Unzipped Composites been working really hard and produced some good stuff we've had planned for a while now New splitter / front wing, oil cooler ducting and rad ducting Few small bits left like DBW and full tune but will get out testing asap even just with the run in tune just to get back in the seat and get back to having some fun driving

Been along time on the updates so here goes Ran in WATA in Nov '19 - had blown headgasket issues and by the end of the day had oil coming out of gearbox and diff also - still ran a good time and had fun but was running the car at 10/ 10ths and it had copped a beating for a fair while After a bit of a rest the rebuild began - longer than I wanted and expected but coming to a finish now Was running a 4.3 diff with 2 way kazz from drifting now gone to a GTR 1.5way Cusco setup w shafts etc setup by the diff guru over here in W.A - also nice Greddy hat Coupled with new 2 piece tailshaft also new twin plate Direct Clutch spec clutch In addition to assist in modulating braking better but cbf going full peddle box went with in engine OBP brake booster replacement was balance bar etc Was using gauges in the dash that basically didnt work or I didnt look at anyway so went with Powertune dash for now its not bad for what it is and gives the nice basics for a hack like myself have updated comfort and safety with new seat and belt BIG change for me is sold off the PPG dogbox and went Samsonas sequential No pics of it but changed ECU from older Vipec v88 to new Haltech 2500 with all the gear + full rewire of engine loom Will be going DBW soon also Also - total rebuild of the engine - still forged rb25 Along the way for weight and cleaning up the old interior picked up Topstage carbon dash All the interior is put together new Sparco with quick release in there too Martin from @Unzipped Composites has been awesome and come on as a sponsor for me moving forward and is cooking up a fancy new front end and bonnet that will be soon installed and completed So after all that... the car is setup with a base tune we'll go run it on - get a few more bits put on and then hopefully it'll be go time to learn all the new things at once and try and progress from there

I know a hack driver that races a skyline with an rb25 poncams and manual that has done a few 59s around barbs He has done it with a 3076 gen 1 and 3582 gen II at around that power mark.... he would chose the 3576 gen II for balance of response and power He did it with a 4.3 diff ratio (but 4.11 or 3.9 prob better) and only had 7 gear changes the whole lap and a setup that everyone called shit ? Or you should buy his 3582 gen II and he gets a bigger one ?

Wow.. mine was 200 odd and i wasnt happy for the level I wanted for my car so on sold it Horses for courses - not great and super clean but can see the appeal for people as an easier and reasonably decent solution for those that dontwant to pay for custom or have the know how to make it work otherwise

knowing you after all our dramas you'll prob get your ahead of time !

sh*t pics but all I have now - fitted to my r32 4 door - fitted fine maybe extra bracket here or there (was a while ago)

Rotas are about 12 - 12.5kg per wheel for a 10" I have Rays CeRT's and are 9.1kg for 10.5", some other wheel weights are attached if your not racing for 10ths or 100ths of seconds it wont make any difference its also what $1200 for new rotas vs $3000 + for good light forged rims Im at a decent level of time attack and for what its worth my second best time by only 100th sec was done on 11kg rims vs 9 kg rims no other differences *note Weds are forged either but just fine

No drilling of hubs at all. Just specify what you want and they will match it up. All just bolt on im not the most accomplished in the world and took me about 45mins tops to do both Yes backing plates will have to ve gone/ bent/ modded All is good..... once you eventually get the stuff

Been on track about 4 /5 times with it - prob not even reached its potential yet - I went from R34 Brembo with Project Mu 2 piece rotors and H16 03 comp pads to yes the 365mm kit on the front and the Forza 6 brake pads provided with it and significant improved braking - not fade in 3 lap sprint what so ever thats a 1200 kg r32 gtst time attack car doing sprints running brake booster still currently going to peddle box to be able to modulate braking more and will up grade the quality of pads For direct comparison to yours a mate of mine whom I compete against has one/ if not the quickest all round R32 GTR that is still street rego full trim etc and 700hp odd and uses the same but with Project Mu club racer pads I think and more than does the job for a 3 lap sprint

I have he brake kit as do many I race with etc The product is good and has been proven Word of warning through experience of myself and many many many people I know I agree they are responsive and approachable and will take your $ but dont expect you order anytime soon or trust any time line they give you. But you get your stuff eventually no matter what they say expect somewhere between 3 - 6 months as they bulk buy etc out of China for some parts they have no control over timelines and given the recent CV there might be more delays / problems also just as a thought

I have exactly all that listed with dyno graph p59 of rb25 dyno thread Rb25 with 3582 gen ll with .82 635hp at 26psi compared against 3076 .82 gen l.. But thats e85. Good luck on 98

yeop after running teflon for ages a line rubbed through got hole in it, replaced it with 'compliant and awesome rubber' XYZ braided hose - had 2 lines blowouts in two events at the AN fitting on pressure side of the rack, so back to to ptfe/ teflon proper stuff and no probs

I cant comment on the other but I used Xtreme one with chromoly fly for good couple of years drifting with similar / more power and did the just just fine ! Dont know where you live but currently using NPC - they built a single plate to my required specs - decent $

as said rb25 with rb20 covers on it no one would know Anyway i had a full forged etc rb22 in my drift car for years - in terms of better than rb20 yes but marginally more came from the boost I was able to put in it and because I was drifting so always in high revs.... eventually swapped to stock rb25 - which was just way better ie: either mild rb20 or rb25 too much $ for not enough return for rb20 stroker

I didnt put it up but randomly had massive overheating and oil p*ssing everywhere at an event a few weeks back. Was a blocked radiator Flushed block, new Koyo rad in, new thermostat, hoses etc in now, also moved oil and p/s coolers up and out and added ducting around the rad and intercooler that Ive wanted to be doing for a while - was DIY so not super awesome but not bad either Also brakes are on and bedded in.... only a few 80 /90 % er laps I got in after the bed in as it was 39 deg in Perth on Sat but they are definitely better. Now to find new braking markets and push the limits

Its just pretty much a standard p/s setup ie: standard pump etc but everything is braided and yes runs through a p/s cooler. S14 steering rack and aftermarket P/S res (not needed just prettier) I dont have any good photos right now but im actually have it apart right now as Im moving the cooler up and over so will try to take photos If you look at photos above, the p/s cooler is the smaller black one on the right side in front of the radiator and have p/s res sitting up next to pod filter

What rev limit, gearbox and diff ratio? Whats 5th top speed? Ive got 214 max in 4th at 8000 rpm with a ppg rb25 box (still 1:1) 4th and 4.11 diff... have been looking into diff ratios

All blinged up for a car 'show' - Bacon and Bumpers - was a good show Now to pull it apart abit for next event - last time out found it had a blocked radiator randomly - long day for not many laps before it nearly went bang. New Koyo purchased and will flush the system and check over

R34 Gtr Brembo, Project My 2 piece 324 x 30 rotors, H16-03 pads, all braided lines, retained brake booster, BMC 57?

will see what happens as we have another track over here thats a bit tighter and prob wont even get into 5th driving that next weekend so see how the setup goes there first... has huge amount of rear grip, still on the edge but can get to it pretty quick pretty responsive for bigger power all in around 4500 dunno I just drive and hard as I can for what ive got haha * this graph compares old GTX 3076 gen I to new turbo at 22psi and also 26 psi

PM sent. Brakes seem good be nice to try... big step from my R34 Brembo's / project my rotor and pads combo but honestly they more than do the job for a sprint and havent failed me yet - if it wasnt tapped in the head and chasing tenths Id be more than happy to leave them as is. Plus Im running up to 633 hp now so pushing it a bit I do hold 4th twice past shift change (at 7K) at the end of the front straight and down to the bowl at Barbs for too long but thats so I dont lose time changing to 5th, down the back straight its just flashing up shift change just before I brake New brakes hopefully brake a bit later so tatics might have to change a bit for the holding in 4th gear ratio calcs at 7k rev say 4th tops out at 214kmph and i consistently see just over 200's when holding and have seen 211 once. 5th cals top out at 255kmph and I see low / mid 240's with high at 248kmph .. actual track data - was interesting as its pretty close cals to practical...but yes there is no room left so Diff guru over here thinks a 3.7 - but they also said I couldnt mash the loud peddle out of corners on full power and put it down... but i can