bcozican

I did find improvements for rear grip by doing the swap as have others I know have done it ... without all the swanky xyz gear to measure actual improvement at our level of racing you'll have to go off other peoples opinions and evidence though unfortunately Ive had it for so long now I have to try and remember the changes from one to the other but I do remember the difference going from one to the other I think s13 rear LCA's would be same length as r32 ones? if so id see if you can source some std s14 LCA's - shouldnt cost much This is going by memory but im pretty sure when I first put in the s14 cradle I didnt have to adjust anything to do with my swaybar ..I did have whiteline sway and endlinks though that did have some adjustment in it...maybe someone else can confirm there ?

I did my s14 rear subframe on r32 gtst but they the same as s13 cradles S14 subframe is approx 5 - 10mm wide a side, I dont know if your std s13 arms will fit though. I had adjustable rear camber arms up top but at first everything else I used was standard s14 stuff down low (ie: toe arms and rear LCA's) You will need offset solid bushes as you said, and I needed a S14 back plate for my diff to fit it in (shorter), also 3 out of 4 cars I have helped with doing this to have needed the rear chassis rail slightly 'massaged' up about 5 - 10 mm to clear the subframe Im trying to get my memeory on now to back when i forst did it with standard gear but im pretty sure sway bar mounts were fine Its 'easy' if you get the right bits and put in the time etc... but its also not as easy as you might think time wise always took longer than we thought haha

Pretty sure it depends what NOS kit you have etc Everyone I know running it on rb25's has it controlled by the ecu (mainly Vipec) to switch on at 2500 switch off at 4500 ish rpm when Vct kicks in yo for the exact reason you state to take away a bit of lag No diagrams or anything from me though sorry

17 x 9 + 30 with 235 tyre fit fine on the front but may need a roll on the back, depending on ride height

Some have seen some not I'll put this here while its clean before something goes wrong with it given my luck atm

Oh dont worry you guys not the only ones to get nervous ... no one could believe it really. They are genuine they were a year old (just sitting in packet) till I put them in. They have survived other trackdays and this was about the 25th lap for the day and 3rd lap in for the session so they were in properly. I could see the bonnet getting its shake / lift on each time down the back straight but have seen it before and many a time on other cars I dont have a speedo but another car there recons he hitting 192 in same spot and I was quicker so was honking along but yeah Maybe I am just friggin unlucky but I will be going back to normal bonnet pins regardless and prob run 4 haha Just wanna spend coin on seat time tyres and fuel not fixing... but thats racing

New engine is in and tuned on Friday morning - all went well, solid no problems Out to a tuning afternoon Friday afternoon - great to get some really decent seat time and just drive My lines were terrible and have lots to learn but also wasnt really concentrating too hard on that moreso just driving and getting use to / enjoying the car. Its quick in straight line and has ample braking atm just tried different damper settings etc to see what would work and not I must have done something bad to someone up there as I have no luck at the moment...top of 4th gear back straight bonnet pins sheared off and I got the bonnet meeting the windscreen and roof real quick, so annoying bonnet and windscreen easily replaced ... roof is arrrrgghhhhh and will be tough to fix properly as its over half the roof.... at least you can still drive it with a bent roof....just wouldve been nice to keep it nicer for longer but will fix Pics with mates 2jz s14 on Track

As above am looking for r32 bonnet hinges If you have some know of some or a car getting wrecked pm or 0411173970 Thanks laine

I would say braking bias would change given your are increasing the size of the fronts relative to the std rears... peeps can correct me if Im wrong but Im pretty sure the overall amount the rears contribute to braking is minimal so effects could / should be minimal i know lots of people that only get bigger fronts so I think its a well stepped path?

Im using BM50 on my r32 gtst with r34 brembo's feels good BM44 did okish too pedal was just a bit too spongey for me so Id say BM50 or BM57 depends on the pedal feel you like but you wont know till you try it

^^ not to my knowledge no when you buy an after market bonnet gtst and Gtr are same same also

based off drifting experience some tyre just dont really smoke ..pretty rare though. its the compound in them ie: (run flats dont smoke up or some cheapies that are hard so they last longer). So they are either crap tyres with xyz compound or they might be an old build date

Pics of front pick up point change Lowering sway bar mount point

Also while waiting on gaskets etc to finish putting motor back in I have been playing around with my spare front bumpers i will get painted up etc and my 'aero' / cosmetic 'aero' to see what it would look like Been talking to a few people on here and they have given me pointers on where to start for splitters etc in the future so thanks ! And I know seat time and seat time and seat time is most important but this is also about the build for me as well as driving for now But for now: Gtr front bar with Abflug Gtr front bar with Jun Style Lip - was thinking about putting a simple ally undertray attached to this Jun style CF rear diffuser Anyone with any thoughts on all this im happy to hear... good and bad, what may work with what or can be modified to work better, a little for looks as I still like a decent looking ca but also actual efficiency and track practicality - as im building this car for both sort of atm

Few random pics as we go: Head to block drain - dont know about you guys but this was a PITA sometimes to move, put on etc especially when in the car so we made it into a fitting style thats easily screwed on and off and in sections if needed Also off turbo to block made the drain similar fitting style etc

S13 and r32 cradles are exactly the same so no point changing to the s13 the advantage of s14 / s15 is the improved geometry changes they built into them from factory so for any benefit will have to go s14 To put the s14 cradle in you'll have too: - get offset bushes.. I used Gktech - use s14 LCA's (std is fine) - put a s14 backing plate on your r32 diff (flatter) - 'massage' the chasis rails about 10mm+ higher at a spot where it hits - not a big area just for clearance issues (3 out of 4 cars we done it on have this issue) first car I just warmed up the area and hit with mallet, this chasis i notched it out and welded you dont need to do the LCA mount adjustment to have advantages from the s14 cradle conversion but going through the stages of r32 subframe, then s14 subframe with no LCA mod to the s14 with the mod i did notice a difference I will take more pics this weekend and post up so you can see more clearly but ... that front mounting point is the basic critical point, eveything else can be adjusted around that with ride height and alignment. As you may see adjusting the front point is what flattens out the LCA. I have 3 holes at different levels built into that so there is a 'ladder' system for that one point so it can be adjusted to suit ride height, grip levels required etc etc and from there we had clearance issues with the sway bar so a simple 'box out' welded to the chasis fixed that

rb20 at 380ish hp was ok on street not the best strarted pushing it ... fine on track really best combo for me on rb20 was with hks2530, FMIC, gtr injectors, good lift pump etc can use basic tuning basic clutch std g box can handle it ... not going to brak the bank getting there or fixing it if it breaks and really fun at 320hp ish

Ive been through 2 rb25's in 3 years (one just recently) ... about 18 months each Id say about 20+ish events each comps and prac's. 90% of time tuned at 500hp and 550nm Track car - 95% drift and that is literally belting the crap out of them .. hard on limiter etc etc - prob push them a little too hard Both times = bottom end bearings went ^^ as per my build thread rb25's have a few things done to them but not forged just cleaned up and good bolt ons and is on e85

Yeah see there you go getting all techincal again hahaha, started reading about ackerman etc etc but never sunk in and just let it go... im one of those you give me something to drive and i'll just drive it with a bit a tech thrown in there. But yes I does seems more camber gain less castor ie: more unstable at higher speeds for cuircuit work. Barbagello and Collie our other main track are very point and shoot really so see how I go. When I started the build I was going to stay with drift hence the setup then got a little over it, 3up knuckles are very very mild (and I still have std knuckles in spare parts bin) but the PBM gear is not optimally suited to cuircuit work first thing my wheel aligner said - more so the castor rod but can change that... ultimately will see how far / fast I can push the car with this setup first then if I get serious will change... also am still going to drift a little just for fun Not been out yet much Neil but no never been pulled up , even my last car was loud same setup with straight through 3" etc. W.A seems a little bit more relaxed over here and the 2 times they have had the DB meter out I knew the guys and they magically turned it away each time I came by But thinking forward should I get pinged I have had the exhaust made in 3 pieces and with v band connections... so the middle piece is quickly and easily removed (once exhaust cools lol) and I have a mid muffler made to replace that exact piece with v band etc so will just bang that up and in if I want to continue for that event and future etc

^^ all that also if all that is done and still a little unbalanced would it be a case of if you are now cornering harder and faster that front camber specifically (and may rear) might have to be increased a little bit also so that your not rolling over on the tyre? and increase turn in

Did you use the same spring damper before and after ? I would have thought before putting sways in the coilovers were taking alot of the load to stop body roll hence you having to run a harder setting on the coilovers? Now you have decent sways the coilovers dont need to run double duty as such and take the anti roll job as much hence if using the damper rate as before your now too stiff....you should be able to soften the damper rate off to allow each part to do its job now

costs is up to you ....no one can tell you how much to spend and on what ... so take that out of the equation really as you are askign about performance I know you said 2.4L but i'll give you reference using 2.2L I've had rb20 up to 380 hp, fully built everything rb 2.2 from 400hp to 550hp (didnt last long up there) and rb25 from 450hp to 550hp the rb22 didnt even come close to the rb25 in terms of performance with exactly the same mods - extra displacement and vct so I either suggest keeping your rb20 and have about 360hp or go rb25

I have UAS front adj camber arms up top just swapped them out for my old kazama ones (that I had in there for 3 years and looked brand new anyway) PBM gear is their LCA and castor rod combo that comes together as one - its actually for drift ...as the castor rod pick up point is moved but I have a grip aligment in it now and its -3.5 deg camber and 7 castor ( pretty much what i had on the front for drift anyway) ...but its maxed at 7 castor the way we set it up LCA's have heaps of adjustment in them and as you say a very strong... little bit heavy tbh but rather strength and not break from a drift and lock p.o.v: I went from a s13de rack with std s14 LCA's widening another 15mm and kazama castor rods and tie rods ends with my 3up mild knuckles to s15 rack, PBM combo LCA's + approx 30mm + castor and Tien tie rods ends + knuckles.... and the difference in lock is hugely better with the new combo Rear end.. what would you like to know ? S14 has better geometry built into the cradle (more antisquat) is about 10mm wider each side also, the gkteck bracing definately helped from getting a tiny bit of flex in the cradle to none for 3kg extra weight added. Changing the pickup points for the rear LCA's is a bit too techincal for my words but flattens the LCA's more under load and this and that, definately made a significant difference in rear end forward drive. Its been done to a few cars over here now moreso circuit cars and all have had positives..although mine is drift based to date on the same everything ie: alignment, rear spring setting and tyre I went from needing 18psi in the rears to about 26psi in the rears for the same given speed / grip level after this mod at Barbs which is a high speed track

PSA did it - too good for me to create - PM sent

nice ! after such a build not bad to only have those few issues - didnt even know this was in W.A till now its that a Jun carbon front lip ?