andy65b

Hi Paul The M35 has some odd settings for the throttle to keep it in line with the Cruiser it is designed to be. Throttle will not open more than 30% till after 3000rpm. this is controlled by the ECU. Only solution to this is buy a Nismo ECU from Japan. from standing starts full throttle will give you a worse start than a gradual application. When you go full throttle the butterfly opens only 30% but it dumps lots of fuel and causes a slower take off. Fuel Usage History, each bar represents the fuel usage for the last time you reset on the fuel usage screen. It uses the overall fuel history to determine the 'distance to empty". As it gets warmer your fuel economy will get worse as the computer will use more fuel to maintain engine temps. Cheers Andy

Good to hear they continue the good work. I remember when I put my HDI FMIC on I had to install a slimline fan and got the wires around the wrong way.. lol. It does make the aircon pretty ineffective when fighting against the air trying to flow through the grill...lol

Agreed... very slack Dale..

Ah.. now I have found it. I have seen that one there for a little while and for some reason stayed away. Not really sure why. I would think he could ship the 2 pieces for $60.

Not really but I have not found any that cheap with loom..

I thought that was easy to find..

found a Emanage and universal loom NEW delivered for $710 aussie. $550 sounds better.. will have to keep looking.

The second page of the instructions shows pretty clearly (IMO) that you connect Red - Orange on Nissan ODB cars and do not use the cigarette lighter. 94% injectors, nothing yet.. wait til you hit 100% lol.. You can set an alarm on the Injector so you know when you are in the danger zone. Mine is set at 95%. I usually only see 100% over 7000rpm. What you need to know is if the AFR's are Ok. Get a Dyno run done to see what sort of tune you have going on. Cheers Andy

I think they are taking you for a ride... It looks perfect to me. Cheers Andy

mmm ... I don't think so ... I have had my Informeter working perfectly in my car for 6 months.. It is just called reading the Instructions.

Just plug it into the OBD2 port and it will turn off with the ignition.

STOP...... You don't need to hack the wires.... The OBD2 port powers the unit and you do not need to use the cigarette lighter at all..

Give Chook a call in Queensland on 0402 118 700. He does the conversions. Cheers Andy

it is a replacement for the section straight after the dump pipe. The left side of the image is front of them pipe and the reduced end is toward the back. Cheers Andy

No, standard on the whole range...lol My vote is for Hawk pads ... and to top it off running the R32 calipers with slotted rotors.

Had the oil leak at the banjo fitting for the oil line for the turbo... very relieved..

Just remember that the R35 GTR is only 70'000 yen in Japan. And here it is $158'000.

you will need it and i can get it cheaper than that...

It only gets to 100% duty cycle at over 7000rpm, not where I drive it on a regular basis. Also that does not mean it is leaning out it just means the car is not as rich as the computer would like it to be. I will put it on the dyno in the next couple of weeks and that will give me an idea what is going on.

I agree, no special skill set to rebuild BUT the advise you get is critical. I have spoken to so many people who say that a 30/76 would be great in the M35. Jetwreck is running a 30/71 in his car and his car has a lot of lag. I just had mine rebuilt as a Sierra Stage 1 (compressor =43mm / Exhaust = 45mm) and this is almost perfect IMO. There is some lag but not an issue to drive around but it comes on strong and what is equally crucial is the question, Is this the last mod you want to do? The reason I say this is because my injectors are at 100% duty cycle at 6800rpm (or maybe a tad higher), so any bigger turbo will mean you need to think about new injectors and piggy back ECU. Cheers Andy

I don't think there is a model number written on it... I can check tonight if needed. I would be giving the turbo ONLY to someone who has done this turbo before as it is special.

Yes, 13 hour and going back in today to fix a small oil leak. The recommended route in the future is to remove the engine and do the install then put it back in. Jetwreck quotes 3 hours to get the motor out. You don't need to lift the motor out as the whole front of the car can be removed and the motor be taken directly forward. Cheers Andy

You have to buy the US control unit, then pull the buttons out of it and refit them to your unit. I believe the control functions are not identical as in the US they do not have the "TV" option.

I guess you should find out what the HICAS system does before posting comments.... as it is not comparable to what you have driven if the ones you drove work at slow speeds. The HICAS system does not do anything below 40kmh, so no help at all in carparks..

Yes we can, but the price has gone up as the guy we were getting them from can not do the same price. It will be more like $460 - $490. Let me know if you want to go ahead. Cheers Andy