andy65b

:rofl2:

NO guarantees on the turbo's at all, I have been told of them failing as low as 50'000km (but that car was found to have at least 50'000km would back on the clock) and I know mine was still good at 125'000km (ARX). Whilst it was still working, it was starting to go as oil was leaking from the bearing. I think if you look after the car, change oil every 7000km as a minimum with quality oil you could see 150'000km from this turbo. You are going to have to hope the previous owner looked after the car as well as you would. If you need to change the turbo, there are a number of option to rebuild the turbo. You can have it rebuilt the same size from about $800 or a large high flow up to $2000. The removal of the turbo and replacement is the hard work. The best method is to remove the motor and gear box. This is about 6 hours of work so a few dollars there. If the turbo worries you, have a look at the PM35, the NA version of the same car with a 3.5L motor. Very good car, newer and a little more expensive. They are available from North Shore Prestige. Good luck with your decision. Cheers Andy

Yes, It does fit.. Danny had it fitted to his Gold ARX when he had it.

Too late Iain I had already asked..

I think I spotted the same one coming out of Brookvale and heading south on Condamine St around 4.30 today.

Looks awesome Chris.. Great DIY write up.

Nice find ......

NO

Would hope so... lets see how big the ego's are and if they can be swallowed.

Chickie, you need to start to understand email/forum etiquette as you piss people off almost every post you make. CAPS = Yelling at people. Honestly, not one C34 owner has accepted any blame for the stupid posts. Retaliating is as bad as making the first stupid post.

It seems to me that the issue is that we have 2 totally different cars, both called Stagea's grouped together. Certainly tolerance is needed but it seems more and more that if the Stagea section is to flourish then there needs to be separate technical sections for C34 and M35 variants. Whilst the common theme of a Nissan wagon is shared by all of us the technical differences is what seems to start all the disputes. I know that after 3 years of ownership there have been many unique problems for the m35 and when you are searching for a solution for 9 months it can be a little frustrating to get well intention advise that is of no relevance. This does not excuse rudeness but, explains why it is there. Well this is my 2c worth, I would love to see the Admin team set up specific technical section for the C34 & M35 as a sub group of the Stagea area. This would go a long way to creating peace and harmony.

From lots of reading on the Internet. Found it in a sercice manual.

Good result Ben,, Sounds a lot like the Impul.

You need to include motor size

It will be fine... I am running the Impul with no problems... other than hitting 100% duty cycle at 7000 rpm. Fortunatley the ECU is running the car rich so this is not an issue.

Hi Stefan What i can tell you is. Idle speed has to set between 600-700 rpm (with all accessories turned off). If this does not happen when you do the idle set procedure the ECU will not remember the idle speed. As the M35 has an electronic throttle body, there is no Idle bypass tube so any air going to the motor at idle is passing around the throttle butterfly. I would recommend you remove the throttle body and clean the inside with Carby cleaner. Do not push the throttle butterfly open as this can damage the calibration. This should stop the revs dipping when you back off the throttle. You should now try to reset the idle using the prescribed procedure, if it sets between 600-700rpm all good. If not, one of the things that should be replaced every 80'000km is the PCV valve. This is located on the bank on the drivers side towards the front of the motor. It sits under the intake and has a hose leading into the plenum. If this valve is fault (at 105'000 it is due for replacement) you will not be able to set the idle at the correct speed. If you suspect it is faulty, by removing the hose from the plenum and blocking off the hose end and the plenum, you can now redo the idle reset and it should set correctly. The Turbo Boost sensor, is a small (match box) item that is connected to the aluminum intake pipe running up to the throttle body. It is attached off the steel brace coming from the Plenum. This could just be a blocked hose. Hope this helps. Cheers Andy

No .... This is Chuckie's personal forum and we should all leave it and let him talk to himself.

Yes, I did very little work indeed. Craig is a legend. AS for the jack, I even strapped her in... lol The car looks fully sick BRO and I am sure in the dry it will be a sweet riding beast.

That is the Nismo effect......

That's why we want to test it... We know the fuel pump is not the same part number as the V35 with the VQ35DE but do know what that mean's. We presume that the Walbro 255 pump provides more capacity. With bigger turbo and other mods our injectors are up to 100% duty cycle so we need to keep fuel pressure up and if I increase injectors with larger ones I am ready on the fuel side.

Aaron, You should do a flow test on the stock pump so we can work for sure that the Walbro actually does create more fuel pressure.. unless craig has already done it with my old one?

Don't worry all is good. The standard boost seems to vary between RX/RS and ARX models. RS/RX seem to be stock boost of around 12psi and the ARX seems to be 13-14psi. This is the stock boost from the factory. So it sounds like your boost is just fine. The turbo is a ceramic turbine with ball bearing. The turbo on the M35 is different to the RB motor's turbo and as such can handle this level of boost without a problem. Well at least it will handle it for about 100km +- 30k before it will need reconditioning. If you want to reduce/increase your boost you will need to look at installing an aftermarket boost controller. The other things that can vary your boost could be ECU (check if it is a remapped one, behind the glove box), the Solonid boost controller being loop off (passengers side of the plenum in front of the 3 plugs, you will need to remove the engine cover). Also check the accuracy of your gauge, the OEM one is known to be a little off in it's reading. BTW; you have a FMIC that flows very well but is a bit small to stop some retarding in our summer temps. Cheers Andy

I don't think it cam with a new Link arm (the Link arm is the same as off a 350z) as there is no real need but I would think there are new bushes as the diameter of the sway bar is increased.

Spotted 2 hover M35 stagea's yesterday.. lol One in much better condition than the other and the black one now running..

Nah.. split the beers to have tonight.. lol well there was no good news... just bloody fantastic news. It was quite funny, as Craig's whole family was there when we tried to start it. Turned over a few times and eventually fired.