awurth

if the rear's aren't spinning it will go to about 10 on my car with hard acceleration. A full noise start on hotmix, the rear let's out the slightest squeel and the gauge hit's the 50 mark and there is no more squeeling to be heard. Going up the entrance to my mates workshop where the front drivers and rear passengers wheel get suspended off the ground going in the driveway it hit's the 50 mark, it's kinda funny watching it max out riding the clutch.

yeah the gears and rpm sounds about right to be the speed cut.

I ran wiseco's in my GTS-t and they handled it just fine. The guy who bought it off me flogged the hell out of it and did a big end as well, piston's where like the day I bought them. same story basically they are a reputable brand with a good product. it's all the same grade aluminium in the end!

Just so you folks know the K&N pod filter that fit's the M's intakes for a GTR is part No. RF - 1005. The filter is 16mm shorter than the actual M's K&N but being shorter it is probably a better fit into the engine bay. Cheers.

My 33 was a 230RwKw with no cat and putting it back in made it a piece of Crap. If the exhaust system is straight through removing the cat and putting some pipe in it's place will help a bit. if it's a stock exhaust i've got no idea then.

the hicas is fine. I can understand people locking it out someway for track work but for driving it's no drama's. You'll find if you try hang the car sideways it'll start to kick you straight, kinda driving you out of the corners.

A mate of mine has custom made allot of exhaust systems and we have found the best way to go is a full stainless with a split dump pipe wastegate merging apout a foot down, a single 3' straight through muffler (marathon) with a cannon on the end. sounds great and doesn't drone. Stainless is great it'll never rust out other wise there are some fairly good titanium or stainless systems around available off the shelf.

WTF Who would you buy a 33 GTS-T over a 32 GTR?????? Yes they are looking dated but i guess that's what happens when a Car gets older. I even think my series I 33 V-spec is starting to look dated, series II's are still looking good though.

Sounds like a lean out from a failing fuel pump! It's just an idea. Cheapest way is to just go new pistons and rings and freshen the motor I suppose, new bearings and such. Don't know they price but my bet it would be your cheapest alternative. Doing allot of the work yourself would save you a packet and also it interesting to do (Not too mention it can also be very Frustrating)

I have a 33 V-spec, but if you want to get serious with money and mods go a 32, 89 model with mods, I personally know a few people who are going that route and it's worth it. They have picked them up with different turbines and accessories, the lot for just over $20K. That's what my GF is going to do now, selling the 180 this weekend and getting a 32 GTR. Don't worry about anyone telling you they are too old and worn out being an 89' they are motor wise generally still mickey mouse and the money you save is worth it.

hey folks I've got a set of M's intake pipes on my GTR and the K&N's on them are a little shagged. I've cleaned and re-treated them and basically just want to get new one's. Besides measuring them up and finding out that way what filter they are does anyone know the part number for the appropriate K&N filter? cheers

what bl4ck32 said. standard cams will have these half circle sections cut out of them, allowing you to get to the head bolts, so the head can be bolted in as a complete unit. Aftermarket cams might not have these little half circle sections cut out.

friend of mine has had this problem with his 32, he was running a different turbo though. he reset the computer and it ran fine afterwards. hope it helps.

yeah I ran an 044 as well. good for something like 600hp.

I know it's getting of the RB30 conversion topic but how come diesels produce good torque down low with short runners? Open the bonnet of any Toyota landcruiser and you'll see very short runners joining onto a common plenum. Not trying to get into an arguement, just want to now why what i see being used goes against the pricipal's explained in that article?

I was always lead to believe short runner lenghts are for low RPM (diesels have great torque down low and have very short runner lengths) and long for High RPM. That's why some cars have the curled runners and in that a butterfly opens and closes. Making the change to a short runner by opening and bypassing the big curl and going to a long runner length when it closes, N/A falcons have the same setup to give the best torque all around. Turbo XR6's dont have the butterfly so the air bypasses the long curve of the runner so you have the torque down low and the turbo gives the great airflow up high. I have also seen N/A cars that have trumpets that increase in length as the engine's revs increase. Have I been led down the garden path all my life??????

used a few of these on different cars 180's, Skylines, and the pics I just put up on the RB30/25 conversion uses a 100mm thick core. They seem very good and like everyone else has said for the price you can't go wrong. I will be using a 100mm core on the GTR when I get around to it.

Here's some more pics of the RB30/25 conversion going on in Mackay. The tuner is currently wiring in the link computer in between jobs then it's down to some tuning.

what's there to stuff around with? If you've got it use it. Lad I bought some turbo's off said he had a single throttle body plenum setup for an RB26. I'll try find out.

I'm lead to believe a leak down test is pressure drop/time. It should all be fairly close, don't know how close though. With a compression test percentage of difference should be no greater than 10%, what i was told by a mechanic. What is an RB20DET-R? I don't know the "R" bit!

maybe just cut a few more holes into the airbox so you know it would definately breath better and a k&n panel filter I reckon you would get it.

WRX-SUX is on a supra in townsville.

they're not really fins just little ridges top and bottom about half a centimeter high that run from the out side of the plenum towards the inlet runners.

well the GTR has been at the mechanics due to me having no time to play with it, and after a couple of days of changing my clutch and rear cranks shaft seal (seal not faulty just changed it), finding out my front universals are stuffed and that my tappet cover leaks they have seemed to have found the problem. The air regulator when closed still allows air to pass through when it shouldn't, it should be half shut at 20 Degrees Celius and fully shut at 60 degrees and should time out and shut after 7 mins. It seems with the caked up throttle bodies letting no air past this bit of air flowing by didn't bother the idle. Now with the throttle bodies letting some air by again plus this bit of air coming through the air regulator makes the revs pick up. The AAC valve is fine after we had fixed it up earlier. Anyone had problems with the air regulator on a GTR before, are they the same as the unit on a RB25? And whats the cost from Nissan? I'm prepared to buy genuine for the sake of it!

i think daikin makes a belt for the RB30/25 conversion. Simply you should be able to line the dots up on the belt and the crank shaft gear and the dots on the cam gears. Looking at the cams the inlet lobe should be around 10 o'clock and the exhaust around 3 o'clock.