GTScotT

Using that as your boost source could be a problem...... Change it like that these guys are saying.

Its been said, and I will say it again. Stock motor and whack on your uprated peripherals. Go hard. Get some joy out of it. Dont worry if you pop the stocky.

Well there you go... The turbo can do it. Its your WG setup thats holding it back

Can you confirm a couple of things... When you pressure test the system, u remove the afm and put in ur test fitting. That means ur intake pipe is in the pressure system, yet has non pressure areas being compressed. Ie your bov pipe and presumably the breather hoses that go from the ex rocker to the intake pipe, yes? To rule that out please do the test on the system post turbo instead of pre, and make sure ur motor is on TDC. Then work ur way thru to see where its leaking, work forwards... So from there go to ur cooler entry, cooler exit, crossover pipe, throttle body. Work forward until u track how far the leak is into the system. Ur breather shouldn't need ur finger put over the gromit, that means ur pressurizing ur sump... Obviously from the ex rocker breather via the intake. Otherwise ur PVC is ficked too. Test this before anything else.. Then test the guys infinite boost (blocked actuator) theory and see if it can actually make that boost up high when it cant possibly bleed it off.. If it can do it then u know the issue is boost control (actuator/wastegate arrangement). Report back and well all help from there.

Yeah definitely need to balance it. Dont forget the old T4 76mm and the GT37 76mm are different dimensions other than OD. You would need the housing too. If I was to do it I really would just send it to HG

I dont think that 0.2L makes much difference. Id prefer to stick to 2L anyway.

LOL yeah someone else already said it, HKS box or Garrett box = same product. The HKS one says HKS on the comp cover but eh yeah... same same. As for whacking a 3037 comp wheel on, sick idea. You will need the comp cover to match. You could send it to Stao and he would be able to fit the wheel and supply the new cover. Would need to be rebalanced. But then youd look like a goose with a lazy 300kw when you had the opportunity to have an AWESOME!!!! 300kw lol. Cmon man just try

No way, I wouldn't write about that shit. I'd be too busy writing about how awesome Precision Turbos are! Same same though isn't it? Pulling dicks and feminine products I'm all for the product being awesome, I even inquired about buying one at one stage and helped a friend with a rotor build using one that I recommended to him. What I'm not for is random troll kents posting random hearsay on an otherwise fact based and truth seeking forum. The forum is built on facts mate, if the facts aren't there you will get knocked down until you put them forward. Search for the words 'china ebay turbo' and watch the all out slander that you can find, but then look at the Kando Dynamic thread and see one guys full build and proof of an Ebay China product and how everyone came to know and respect what that turbo was capable of. By all means tell us how good your shit is, but back it up. Not everyone is smart enough to be a skeptic, but every smart person is skeptical without proof or backing.

Mate you just made my day, I F**KING LIVE for smartass comments, OMFG what I would give for another opportunity to make one. MY LIFE IN A NUTSHELL!!!!!!!!!! Thank god you noticed and pointed it out, OMFG THANK THE son of rajab. I'm f**king foaming at the mouth for it, PLEASEEEEE give me more material to use, PLEASSSEEEE. Accurately; your comment was your seventh post, you joined 18 days ago, you have a shops banner on your signature like everyone here is meant to know and recognise you after an 8th of a second on this forum and your talking hearsay about what your dads car made. It might be fact for you, but you look like a workshop promoting a product they intend to sell. Like Zebra said, this thread is full of sales pitches. If you want to waltz in and make big claims like that bring the proof with you. I was quite happy when PJ brought his result in, it painted a bigger picture for me than I ever expected. Jump on his band wagon and you will get the credit you deserve.

Cool story bro.

I did want to ask, is that dyno graph yours? The top of the graph says 'R33 Tao Hypergear'..... Is that just a mistake or are you uploading the graph for that turbo off Stao's car?

NO..... Damn man dont spread rubbish like that.. They sell a REAL 3037 with a Kando rear housing for 1.5k, its a great price.

C'mon Mick, I want to see it come to life already lol

Your missing page 33-34 mate, Trent pulled 302rwkw with a 10cm 20g kando on an SR and back to backed it against a HKS GTRS.

Thats a difference in motor character more than it is something wrong. CAs seem to love boost and airflow, they arent shy and RBs have a set RPM that they come alive. Very different character, its still an RB vs an RB which makes it relatively fair. Why not just refer to the true back to back job on the SR20 status showed?

Thanks Roy. Now we have 2 reliable sources that the GTRS is obsolete to the 20g.

I need to order one of these now!

Do a CO2 test on the radiator, if it gets a high reading it will confirm its a BHG. CO2 tester measures CO2 component in the coolant, it will tell you if you are getting exhaust gas into the coolant.

That just depends on what sort of turbo your talking.. ATM Ive got a Disco, which I rekon with a .86 will boogie from very down low right thru to 8k if I wanted, yet thats talking about a 220kw setup. With 250kw+ comes that 4000rpm downfall... EXCEPT for a 20g. See below. NOTE: bare in mind we dragged the 260kw 3037 S13 against two cars I previously built (now owned by two brothers), one 183rwkw SR20DE+T S13 and one NXR-T which had 123fwkw before the FMIC went on. Both the smaller cars destroyed the 260kw S13, I dont think the big one would have caught up even if we stretched it beyond 200kph. So whats the point I guess? May aswell pick the perfect turbo and run with it whatever the numbers are. Your neglecting one specific dyno sheet with a back to back result. Status posted a back to back result for a HKS GTRS (the god like 250rwkw turbo on a RB25) vs a TD06SL2-20g T3 10cm. OK it was not on an RB, yet it doesnt mean the GTRS is better suited to the SR and the 20g is not does it? The 20g traced the character of the GTRS right till the GTRS peaked and then the 20g kept going till 300kw. What more could you want than that? If you could expect the results to be 'similar' on an RB25, that would say the 20g would have absolute balistic response with 300kw? Isnt a 300kw GTRS what we have all be savouring? Just doo eeeett.

Cool beans, never got the SMS no. I now have a 10:1 CR SR and am wondering what I can spool with it lol.

LOL just stick to one plan you fag!!! You have the turbo and know it will be WIN!! If you do get a mani though, Ive read the GCGs are a fairly poor item. Ports are exact ETC. Im pretty sure they are an ordinary china item. Speaking of getting things running well, I got my S14 all tidied up and ready for a big power tune and it spun a bearing on the day of completion lol.... Weeeksssss of work. LOL this will be interesting... T78 1JZ... There was a dude that got put in a drifter JZZ30 on youtube somewhere... From what I know that was a T78 at 500hp+, you may want to fashion yourself 50% more JZ. That mean u want this mani or is the 78 a T4?

What a turbo -_- I would love to put one on my SR but Im scared of the lag. I went in a 3037 (3076R) SR yesterday and was appauled at the lag, nothing like what you can expect on an RB25. Goes to say if the 20g isnt too bad on the SR it would be ballistic on an RB.

No thats wrong, thats your torque. Notice it starts way off the charts for what you could consider vacuum? Whereas the other one is accurate for what you expect. Your boost is hitting 20 and bleeding down to 15.

When I was younger I also got stung by a mechanic who may have been trying to do the ring thing, I dropped the car off to change one small thing and they wouldnt give it back unless they changed all this other crap to make it 'safe to drive'. For a while after if I had to use a mechanic I would take it to them and specifically tell them not to touch anything and just to do XYZ. It got me some of the undesirable results as mentioned above. I then realised there was no middle point, you either take the car there ready to do what u need them to do or you let them do it and charge a packet. The difference between then and now for me is I made it my mission to have the car ready so that it would not cause an issue once there. Have been fine ever since.

ARC lost 20kw to Stao's car which runs a china core. I think that goes to say that return flow isnt the way.