GTScotT

The precision turbos seem to be less laggy than the equivilents in garrett speak, but they want 35psi to do their thing.... It just depends on if you want to build a setup to cope with 35psi in order to make a pissy 400kw. If you read the "who has over 400kw" thread you will see a dude with the forum name 'Fineline' who broke a lot of 35Rs making 400kw, but has since swapped it for a garrett 3788 twin scroll and is making the power much nicer now. I think it was doing it at like.... 19psi? The twin scroll setup also made the 3788 very similar in spool to the 35R but seems to have a bucket more power available. Personally I would be chasing that.

+1 auto skylines drive VERY well

$500 to swap the housing AND make the new dump is worth every cent!

^ my car screams, is don is good. Get your post count up asap tho - we need more for sale threads to sabotage. To OP: The problem is probably something to do with a gasket as mentioned, or something with a cooler pipe somewhere. It honestly wouldnt be an easy job for a turbo-newby to find and fix it. Check all your pipes to see if theres anything loose or any hoses with cuts in them ETC. Otherwise you may want to see a mechanic as its likely to be coming from the turbo's exhaust gasket. I have had this happen myself more than once and it was the gasket every time.

Heyyyyy? To clarify, you gibberish speaking bag lady, your talking about your existing setup? Not a 20g result. Yes?

LOL nothing beats a good handjob sometimes. Im not sure if the PFC shows THRO or TPS...... Ull need to have a good check and see whats what. Ive had similar problems to what your having here with a dud TPS. It would show the right voltage at idle and at full throttle but in between it would give inconsistent readings.

Can you check your TPS readings please? See if it gives consistent readings on the handjob.

Fake N1 pump maybe? Assuming it was built right.. How much power does it have? Maybe just try source a good 2nd hand motor.

Aw man Sunday is no good.. Got a pair of vice grips? I'll PM you something to try tomorrow.

300rwkw $10,000 350rwkw $20,000 Sounds like a new Kando customer coming up.. 6boost Kando dynamic T67 Tial MVR 44mm 3.5" TBE Nistune + Z32 + ID1000 Bosch 044 Greddy 'cross flow' FMIC Good for 300+ until you get bored, up the boost, make 350+, blow the motor and spend another 10k making it able to cope with the rest of the power. Look up SimonR32 in the members section, find one of his posts, then click the build thread in his signature. Copy his setup if thats the power you want, others have also copied him and have gotten great results too.

If you just ask the supplier to swap your housing for the garrett one and pay the additional you will be fine. Honestly, we are pretty much telling you there is no point even trying that housing and seeing how it will go. You will just void its value. The supplier wont take it back once its used and you will not be able to sell it. I assume you got your turbo from MTQ, just call them and explain you have changed your mind about the rear housing and would like to exchange it as it is still new and unused. Im sure he will let you send the housing back undamaged and exchange it for the garrett .82 provided you pay the cost. If your housing is worth $400 new, and the garrett $600, pay the additional $200 then pay to send it to him and send it back to you and your laughing. No more mucking about, just do it.

Woman driving lol. Sarge are you off work today? I dont mind taking a look for you, am in Penshurst.

ARTZ why buy his housing when you already own the ultimate turbo HG has put 3576 cores in stock 2iu housings, how many times must I tell you the 2iu isn't even half your problem. As for the avo or sonic comment, I think I pretty well covered that it looks the same and possibly could be from the same factory but rebranded (avo's rights must have expired and China found new places to sell its products) The problem is exactly as said above, they are actually made for the stock turbo. They are ok when using a gt28 core or similar but the gt30 60mm is probably a little too big for their design.. Ive touched on it already, id probably prefer a 2iu or op6. Ask mtq to swap it for the Garrett .82 and pay the difference if u have to, its still new.

That is the mtq sonic performance housing. Even they dont know what size it is.. They say .75 in one place and .76 in another on the same page.. I fear this will be another AVO job, and it probably comes from the same supplier. Look here: http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/739548_dash_RB20_dash_25/Nissan-RB20_or_25-Ball-Bearing-Upgrade/pd.php

This one is fairly simple. You cannot create or destroy energy, first law of physics. It means you need an engine making in excess of 200kw driving the generator to drive the electric motor if you want it to produce 200kw. Or you need pre charged battery cells with 200kw per hour of energy stored in them. Then you have to consider losses in energy, remember that heat is loss in energy. So if your electric motor will produce heat, it will lose some of your said energy. Someone else has recently thought of a new cvt model that uses reduction gears of some sort.. With a tension on them. I saw it on the ABC but wasnt sure how it worked, Maybe a slide gearset. Anyway, like I explained to my dad (LOL here we go) cant make or create energy. He thought he could get a 12v engine to run off a car battery and spin an alternator/generator. Enabling him to keep the car battery charged and create excess power. What he ended up with was a very expensive fish pond set that needs its car battery changed every 24-48 hours.

It nearly runs a 10 and two different machines measure its output no doubt on different algorithms and different variables. Enough sooking, is don is good.

Still got it, still want it gone. Thanks,

Thanks mate

The only T3 IWG they do is a 12cm, which is a little lazzier than I most of us seem to want. It also has a 3 bolt outlet which blocks the WG path... There is also an open version (same thing with the rear cut off) which I think fixes the problem bar that of the 12cm. Keep in mind MHI seem to like smaller housings, 12cm is more 3L suitable. If they were TS evo housings that is a different game all together.

Yes, how long is a piece of string fits well. The better question is what do you want...... Kando has got a lot of cars covered, Evos, Subys, SR20s and generic. The skyline stuff falls into the generic catagory, which need custom everything that touches the turbo. Custom manifold, custom wastegate, custom dump pipe. Even the internal wastegate turbos kando do will need custom dumps and spacers off the stock manifold. If you like what you see from the T67, get one and get the bits mentioned necessary to make it work. If you want it to bolt on and fit easily, have a look at Hypergears current turbos and pick the one which makes the power u want. At the end of the day its power and method. Some of us would prefer a 20g over the HG SS turbos, fast spool and up to 300kw. There is likely to be little benefit at the end of the day... And it will need a manifold and gate whereas the HG will not. Answer: if you want less than 300kw just get a HG. If you want 300+ get the T67. If your not sure, also get the HG because the Kandos will need some serious effort applied.

The IW housing they have is very similar to the Trust 12cm item. Try to stick to both 12cm or bigger and the TD06H wheel. Incase you havent read the whole thread, the following are the TD06 wheels in size and flow: TD06S 65mm OD - lowest flow TD06SL2 61mm OD - high flow good balance with spool TD06SH 67mm - highest flow They all have the designation 'S' whether it says it or not. Do not confuse a TD06Sh or TD06H as two different items, they are the same. Some tend to drop the S as its not needed. You have a giant engine so I encourage you to stick to the biggest parts you can. Try look for a TD06H 25G with 12cm rear housing and 24v front cover. Maybe email them to ask if they can make this and for under $800....

MM no I wont go there. Interesting info tho..

I did say dont take offense.. 280 at all 4 is definitely doable for the stock turbos. A full exhaust and a tune will net that without too much drama. I call 380 entry level when comparing it to 26s, I guess I felt a cammed 30 would fairy easily exceed 400 with these turbos. Its certainly not a small number but is more or less what you see from factory motors. Have you ever run it on a different dyno?

Nice reads. I had read your revisited one a while back. I am somewhat curious of the power outputs... Your 2530 adventure saw you make stock like numbers.. And now your RB30 adventure seems to have panned out again to fairly entry level numbers. By no way am I knocking you or your build, I admire the effort and especially your articles, yet what of the results in your eyes?

TD06H 25G 12cm For people unaware this is being suggested because he is used a 4.5L motor, it is not the all out performance replacement to the 35R. You would want this if you are after a kando: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD06H-25G-T3-12cm-/270807644010?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f0d64b76a Or this may be a lot better for your application: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-HINO-JO8C-24100-3251-GARRETT-GT3576-479016-/290609084681?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a9a6b909 Better spread of torque, not so much 'performance' based. Will do more of the heavy work that a 4by would normally do.