GTScotT

Click Search > Type: "RB30 cefiro" > Click GO Results are: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...ite=rb30+cefiro Specifically: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ce...;hl=rb30+cefiro http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fi...;hl=rb30+cefiro http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ce...21#entry4041421 Now that wasnt so hard was it Surely you can find your answer there, or PM someone with it done and ask them. GL

in thinking piston temp vs oil rings...... that could be tune related, did you ever log EGT?

one would hope so, fecken clunker lol

lol then buy the car with the upgrades already and tell her ur saving up for the house... "its not like i dont want to work on the house hun, afterall once im done i can work on the car too " mediation, atleast they think so

Noone ever said pushing a t28 to 300rwkw, but GTRS making a solid 250rwkw is plentiful in the results thread. I myself am a major skeptic of the 3076, and would be much quicker to jump on the 3071.. Yet ofcoarse this is my own opinion, and Im well accustomed to being hated for it A good thing to see would be a 3071 with .82 garrett IW... back to back on a 3076 on road rather than on dyno, and ofcoarse against a gated .63 of the above 2 types. My brother runs a .63 ex gated on a 2.6 astron in an old sigma, with the first cam spec he ran with a max RPM of about 6000 (alot for an astron) it would come on VERY early and hard, which gave me alot of faith in the setup, although, with a bigger cam to allow revs up to 7000, it became an all out dog... with a 2500 stall on a C4 also.. I am tempted to salvage this setup off his car (currently in storage) but not sure I want to at this stage.

lol better hope ur getting paid well, im going 2 bed

When you get home, follow these two links http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...req-t64201.html http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#55 just about everything you could want to know about powerFC

checked the fuse boxes ? lol

1. use common sense 2. search the information is readily available on the forum, you can use any RB series powerfc. obviously you cant easily get one from another car and get it to work. because all RB's are fairly similar electronically and the powerfc has the ability to be tuned, you can get a powerfc from any RB powered skyline to run any other. BUT, only the R33 and R34 powerfc will do the job PROPERLY. the R34 has variable cam timing, only the R33 and R34 powerfc has the components inside to run that. using a RB26 powerfc is cheaper but you need to redo your wirring harness and you lose control of the VCT. the VCT (variable cam timing) is makes the car alot more powerful down low, without VCT the car will feel alot laggier unless you get a really good tuner to tune it out with adjustable cam gears. the forum is FULL of information, more than you will find by asking questions and usually you can ask your question in a topic that is already going. If you have any questions about how to search, please ask, if not I have armed you already with more than I should have. Goodluck

ohhhh you ended up with Justins turbo, got ya

What are the specs of yours again? Im at a loss finding what one your running

I thought you were running a 56T mate? Sounds like you need to post up your part number lol

for you, im thinking hypergear.. you seem rather cost focused, bang for buck. Hypergear sells a good product and gets the results to match. Have a look at his list, I think he can set you up something 250kw capable for about 1400 or so and bolts back onto your stock position etc.

Im not sure about the GCG vs GTRS, there are alot of mixed results with the GCG while the GTRS seems quite consistent. As for easier to fit, its more so buying the random bits equating to a relatively similar cost to the kit. I am personally one always fond of a clear outcome, a HKS kit bolts on in 1 way and has a predictable result within a certain range. Not to say that one is not able to get the same results from a similar package built from garrett and custom bits yet the results to base my expectations on are far and few. As for 2k for a GT30 vs a 3K GTRS kit; dont forget, the GT30 itself costs 2k.. You then need to fabricate a line kit to the tune of roughly $200, a suction pipe which for a pro to make may want a few hundred on his own.. I have seen people use a 90 deg bend and some silicon but dont forget you will also need to add fittings for the blow off and breather to the motor. Personally I am a major fan of the stock blowoff so I couldnt not add one in, the cost of the 90 deg elbow and 2 silicon joiners will set you back roughly 100 plus perhaps another 100 in having someone add some fittings to it and some extra pipe here and there to connect it all back up (seeing as nothing is stock anymore). You then have the problem of spacing the manifold which has been said to cost as little as $5 but it all adds up, and making a new dump which IMO would be to the tune of $400 Minimum. I dont think running a stock based bolton housing on a GT30 is advisable at all, considering the .63 IW has a hard enough time controlling boost as it is. Realistically when chasing the results a couple of hundred extra is hardly worth squabbling over.. Considering the HKS kit also comes with gaskets which I have not mentioned above. There is always more to the story than seems, and not everyone can fabricate their own parts. If wanting above 250rwkw, and do not want to outlay the 3k in one hit, perhaps a 3071 .82 IW or 3076 52T .82 IW would be the way to go.. I am more fore the 3071, while others are heavily more in favor of the 3076 (but in 56T form). One option I am keen to see results on would be the 3076 52T .63 IW although i suspect the outcome would be much like the 3071 .63 IW in terms of boost spike, and I am just not confident in the .82 setup. I like to feel the car give you a sense of urgency that only bad take away curry can give you, like you are more than compelled to keep your ass glued to the seat for you fear the aftermath of standing up at the wrong time. Yet the answer to all lies in the balance of an external gate and manifold to suit.. And there goes 5k on what will probably match the 3.7k GT2835 pro S... along with all the lead time and obvious cop bait attraction. Sigh, yet again I find myself revisiting the prospects of a one off garrett build up.. And I was so sure a GTRS would be solve all

best bet is to go for something with results to back it up. ebay is for second hand goods and the like, not for selling shit you couldnt sell in a shop. we all know those turbos are bad, and you have to be lucky to get one that doesnt shit itself in a hurry. just buy a garrett or get a hiflow done.

or try not to spill fuel on the o ring and put it in the freezer while you work lol, stops it going out of shape

now that youve cleared it up, yes its running right. you cant change it from that, unless you use a dual stage with an adjustment for both. I have one of those if you want it PM me.

evoOZ is........ need i say it?

Everyone will tell you not to get a walbro, blow your motor bla bla bla. There are alot of walbro fakes out there, squillions. These are often hard to pick and can infact be the death of your motor. Buying a walbro from a reputable resaler for its regular price (their cheap enough, dont go hunting a bargain) such as justjap for 175 is a great option. The walbro is easier to install than the Bosch and is IMO better suited to the application. OEM pumps have a saddle bag filter attached to the pump, the 044 is not an internal pump and originally has a fitting on the end of it. The in tank 044 pumps have an extension to the body with a mesh filter over the end of it. Not only is it not the same design as the OEM pump (to fit the OEM tank and dimensions) but the mesh filter is not replaceable. Should you pick up a bad batch of fuel and need to change your fuel filters (in tank and engine bay) the walbros saddle bag is a clip on item. You will also need to buy a bolt on fitting adaptor for the pumps outlet of the 044, the walbro is compatible with the stock hose. The 044 is a great pump, good to use as a pair for a high output car orfor a single external setup. Im not fussed about what others think about my opinion, but for a basic up to 300rwkw Nissan, I think the walbro is an excellent option. FYI, evooz and evom have all far exceeded 300 ALL WHEEL KW running walbro fuel pumps and 98 ron. No reported failures of Genuine items. Make sure it comes in the original walbro packaging, comes with a fitting kit and when you look in the inlet you can see metal gears inside and not plastic. http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=309&page=1 GL

I dont know where you will get the .78 housing from, but you will run into boost control issues with the .63 IW housing. Front covers, realistically the options are .50 2.75" and .50 4" and either choice is up to you, i do not see there being a benefit in the 4" considering the actual inlet to the turbo is smaller than both. as for the .6 cover, having done the maths i dont see the need for the surge slotted cover or the extra size in AR. there are a couple of other threads with GT30 information going around right now.. you may want to check them out. If you are sure on your plans for 250rwkw, and are not aiming for more, you may want to reconsider your turbo choice. A HKS GTRS will set you back roughly the same amount as setting up a 3071 will and be a total bolt-on. The GTRS will net 250rwkw with ease, the dyno thread shows just about everyone running one is hitting 250. The amount of area under the curve is enormous on that turbo, and its designed to work.. so no mixing and matching and chasing down big boost spike issues. If you havent already check out nengun. also, if you decide you want over 250rwkw you can get the HKS GT2835 pro S. Do the maths on how much your proposed GT30 setup will cost, then check out the prices of the HKS kits... its not that far apart for something that is engineered to work well.

if you have setup your dual stage in the following way: Boost source (nipple on cooler pipe) > boost controller T peice > actuator then you have done it correctly, and if you are stressing that you have unwound the setting all the way but still doing 7psi minimum, then that is the maximum the tap can open and there is clearly still a restriction somewhere inline. 7psi is fine anyway, just make sure you have installed it properly and live with it.

lol ill call china now, i know how to say larp sarp (trash) bong o da fei gei (help me smack the aeroplane aka pull my deck) and mo gai (no alternative). Surely I can string something together to the tune of "HKS housing" because the ones we have are larp sarp and when they decline Ill say mo gai and before I hang up in hostility ill ask the cute sounding receptionist if she can bong o da fei gei. Wish me luck.

check all the fuses on the drivers side kick panel and also the fuse box in the engine bay.

more info

seeing as your info saying you have an R34, id say you have a pull type, but best check... i have seen some cars with older model gearboxes in them.. so checking what is actually in yours is advisable before you buy anything. an OS giken twin plate was useless enough for a regularly driven car.. little to no friction point, i can only see a triple being worse.. but have never driven a triple and from twin plate experience, the exedy hyper twins are just as bad. infact the hyper single is too. as been stated already, buy a heavy duty for your car.. if you buy direct from a clutch specialist they can order you anything you want from exedy.. if your running abit of power, see if they can order you a HHDB normally cost an extra hundred to uprate it one further. once installed a HHHDB to an S13, despite being enormous, it was still lightyears more streetable than a twin.. that was with a 1200kg clamp load and a 5 puck button. GL