GTScotT

i am very keen to hear moaarrr

the hks hipower are beautiful mate, awesome sound and not too loud, looks great under the car. they are also mild steel tho, fyi im in agreeance with the above comments, something local will be good. Xforce, despite being made in china and almost noname, are excellent. Ive personally seen alot of cars with prefab xforce systems that fit, and sound great. a custom job can turn out great if you go to the right place, but it will end up costing you more than an xforce or JJR (if ur not worried bout how loud it is JJR arent too bad) remember to use a good quality cat tho, GL

3 out of 3 coolingpro rads i have seen in the flesh or owned have had coolingproblems 1 of which the tubes expanded under pressure and wouldn't let air pass never again from me

what motor did u run that on and do you have a graph/comments on how it ran?

that will hold plenty more than 250 GL

+1 do not cut. Something you may find interesting tho, a project I did some time ago was a turbo NXR. I planned the thing for about 2 years while I saved up petty cash and learnt the car inside out. The day the car came to fruition (123fwkw) was one of the best days I can ever remember, the car was blisteringly quick and with the excellent match to power and torque it also handled exactly how I had predicted. It all came crashing down when I decided the top mount was the cause of a mysterious pinging issue (with my stock DET go figure), or so I was advised by every tuner under the sun. So on I went to install a front mount . Next thing you knew power delivery had turned to shit and it has developed a massive overheating issue.. Best of all, it was STILL pinging its guts out, worse than ever. This was the end of it, I gave up and bought an evo. When I sold the NXR I repainted the front bar to make the new owner happy and drove it around without for around a week. Within that week the car did not ping, did not overheat, did not hiccup, did not do anything it shouldnt have other than have that crappy peaky feeling the cooler gave it. Problem was fixed ... I probably could have prevented the whole thing with refitting my splash trays and a good oil cooler WITHOUT a damn airblocking cheap china intercooler. Didnt need an evo... didnt need to sell the car.. but it was too late anyhow. See this pic for an idea. Hope my garbage story helps you bud.

u should always do a comp test etc when u buy a car, and id recomend driving the car for atleast 3 months or one service interval before you start modding away. that gives the car time to show its gremlins and you can iron them out.. the best way to fix a car is return it back to its correct working state (stock) and fix the issue before you go on doing lots of mods. Otherwise you dont know if your the cause of ur problems or if its something else. ull also learn to drive the car better starting from stock and moving up to ur 200kw. plus.. if its going to die after uv driven it for 3 months.. atleast make it die hard

IMO 190 from a 4 cyl is of no comparison to 190 of a 6 cyl Keep in mind an S14 weighs more than a R32, do you imagine a 190kw S14 losing to a 190kw R32? lol or R33 for that matter IMO there is a significant advantage in the delivery of a 4cyl over a 6cyl when it comes to torque for accelerating, within a certain range ofcoarse. once you get to bigger numbers u start getting capped off with the smaller motor, and the bigger motors begin to shine. sub 300kw, 4cyl all the way.

lol cheering

could still be a what im thinking, hey u could just swing by a fellow enthusiasts place. ill take a listen if ur close to banksotwn, saves the text based guess work.

have a good listen when free revving with the bonnet open and ur standing at the front of the car, see if u can hear anything. also, i dont mean paying extra for good oil, i mean ur paying about 60 bucks too much is all (from memory). gold is 70 for 5L.

does it do it free revving? and can you hear any other sounds at all in the engine bay free revving? also, you are paying too much for the best kept secret being the best oil in the world to which you have exposed on a public forum.

it is an option, however i would consider it a less economical option based on product quality. personally i would want to have a new manifold made as if you think about it, a slight change will require quite abit of work. shortening or repositioning any of the runners of collector will change the angle at which the pipes need to run at the moment meaning the changes will be fairly major. essentially meaning time consuming and tedious, which results in costly and CAN result in a poorer quality item. if you arent too concerned about quality etc and just want it on, you can try find somewhere to do it for cheap. otherwise id resell and start over, hope that helps.

something tells me that turbo and manifold werent a paired combo on production... cant honestly think of an economical way to fix that other than to swap the manifold or turbo for an alternate option (resell rebuy)

Mine, done. Ill sms you for address and confirmation.

he means put it on and drive it as is for 200km. its not a far disctance, you want need a tune or change of any other parts to drive it around sedately. however the car was running previously put it on and run it like that for 200km, then whack ur tune parts in and get it tuned. simple.

either the rb26 push type or rb25, no matter

*excited*

i always find a wing on the block to rest a big flathead against and stick it in the teeth on the flywheel, works well if the motors toast i dont see a problem jaming the cylinder, i pour old oil in it on the comp stroke and put the spark plug back in lol be aware it will fk the motor and u will cop a mad money shot if u fk up lol again i only do that if the motors seriously toast.... i would never hydro lock (or ROPE lock) a motor i intend to use again

if u cant bleed it to build pressure id say theres a hydraulic issue there somewhere check for leaks, occasionally they can leak on the pedal side and ull find ur carpet is wet, so check for that also.

mate 300kw isnt the new 200kw..... 200kw in an s13 is just twice as fast as in an rb powered skyline man this dirty 30 expedition better be bullshit LOL

could be a warped friction disc or pressure plate. I had all world of issues with an exedy copper mix I got from japland. Im assuming the package was dropped HARD on its way over. Replaced with an OEM for test sake and had a perfect working system again. Could not tell the copper mix was faulty tho. Before you munch out your gearbox in frustration (as you sound like me and would probably be provoking the wound to try pinpoint its cause) drop the box and inspect the clutch. Best thing you can do is throw in a stock clutch and flywheel if you have one lying around. A weekends work is cheaper than a new gearbox when you mince that one. Do this simply to see if the clutch itself is the problem as you know a stocky definitely WORKS. GL

Most of the time, yes, but not when I'm working on it As for the eboost2, I cant honestly be totally sure as Ive only seen it in one car, but it was definitely most impressive. Yet reference some of the BIG drag cars with BIG boost and they also run the eboost2, so that's saying something. I don't mean 30 pounds either lol.

having extensively used EVC 3 4 5 and 6 I have to disagree and say they dont belong on that list. cars i have seen them work well on were cars that could run actuator pressure faultlessly, and the only car ive seen run highboost successfully with an evc was an evo9 with a 1.5 bar actuator. funnily enough it was running....... 1.5 bar. other cases were cars running mild boost ups that would run consistent boost levels off straight actuator pressure. anyone experiencing a pressure drop off the actuator could never tune it out with the evc, and thats professional tuners inclusive (no names). to run big boost id be looking at a eboost2. i know of one running a flat 27psi from threshold to redline on a 15yo 10 pound actuator.

best controller to use to date (for me) is the AVCR. have also seen excellent results from the greddy profec B spec 2 and blitz dual SBC. personally think eboost2 is best at holding boost (from what ive seen) and hate anything HKS (havent seen one work to a satisfactory standard yet professionally tuned or not) FYI PFC boost control kit is similar to the AVCR for use. GL