GTScotT

theres actually no shaft mate. the rear wheel and shaft is 1 piece on a ceramic item, so the shaft is also ceramic. hope that clears it up.

try this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...l=stagea+airbox fyi they refer to stageas as volvos alot so dont get bik confushun

The way I look at things is that an exhaust AR indicates the turbos power band. Basically speaking the .86 will come on later and stay on longer, while obviously with a few extra RPMs you should also see a slightly higher output up top. You should also note you will lose some mid range punch. Being built off a HKS 2530 spec results are readily available, and the .64 is not too restrictive for an RB25 no. People are using .63 housings on GT30 and GT35 based setups to great results. In saying so, if you look into the 2530 results and like what you see, you should stick to the 2530s original housing size, if you feel that it comes on uselessly early and dies off too quick (which it doesnt) and foresee a USEABLE advantage to shifting the power band up then opt for the .86. I would consider a .86 housing in a circumstance where the turbo is maxing out the rear housing too early. For example, I am a fan of the 2871 (GTRS) but can see constraints in how much boost can be run efficiently, now the curve on a 2871 is excellent enough as it is so I can justify running a .86 on it to get a little more flow out of the back end, seeing as I believe the compressor has more flow in it too. In saying so, I still think the .64 one HKS sells it with would be better, I just thought of this theory to try and squeeze the most out of the garrett equivilent. The garrett has no surge slots and the HKS housings are possibly not garrett standard issue items SO the .86 idea was a way for it to be run a little harder in exchange for some low down torque, which was probably only a loss up till 3500 ish and it would balance back out. Have a good think about it and compare results, also try to consider how much boost people run already... 17-18psi seems a normal number for a 2530 so maybe the .64 is the best way to go especially if you dont want to rev much beyond 7000. Remember the stock turbo is a .48 AR on a 33. Its not the motor maxing out the housing its the front size of the turbo maxing out the rear side with the motors ability to eat air as a variable. Thats why highflows in stock housings still work and make excellent power, because the rear wheel is big enough to let gas thru that doesnt choke it. GL and keep us updated with your results.

find a thread about putting one in a stagea and post in there asking if that model stagea is similar to an R34 GTT enginebay if its the right type of stagea i rekon the enginebay is almost identical

+1 comp test, cant stress enough. but for a different reason

i have this strange image in my head that after you put the turbo in, it boosted to 15psi, cut and has been a dog ever since. is this what you are trying to say? either way, comp test time.

alex kenny? r u stalking me.....

it can't injest it from the exhaust side no. its doubtful this would have any bearing on the issue in this case

how bout a cat full of ceramic dust? drop the exhaust from the dump, just for test and see if it boosts round the block

Drop an EJ25 into the leone and get back to the program I need to learn from your epic win/faux pas

by any chance, did you find the ceramic wheel in the cat? if so, im sure u pulled it out, but did you consider it could have caused your cat to collapse? or if tis a metal one, might have mangled it. look into it, or let us kno wat u hav done in regards to this.

Great to hear mate! post up your dyno sheet ASAP! also, what AR is your exhaust housing?

did they disconnect your battery when they welded the exhaust on? and are you certain the problem started after the exhaust was done and not prior?

Not a fan of E85.. Not a fan of lean tuning full stop... Fuel and timing, not less of both..... Plus, when e85 came out I always thought it was meant to run heaps richer and enable you to run LOTS more aggressive on the timing and charge temps.. But instead they run it at 98 ron lean mixtures... where stoich is like 5:1. But this isnt an E85 thread Turbo it up! (wishes he had the brains to do engineering at uni)

could be a garrett CHRA, inconel rear wheel if ur lucky F1 exhausts are made from that metal, glow on idle and translucent at redline

boost tee, avcr/profec (preference), eboost2 that order the AVCR is friendlier than the profec, profec has the added feature of gate full closed to X boost, helps with spool.

sorry to be the one to disagree, but your description is spot on to every big end ive ever heard. now if people are nit picking to a spun bearing vs a worn bearing i dont know, but card in the spokes and your description of 2500 to 3500 is exactly consistant to the many bearings ive heard. thats the sound of an early days big ender, for all you know, it could still be savable.... best bet, drop the sump and check number 6 im 100% sure noone will agree with me here, but I have actually had success in the past where this has happened to the extent yours has, we have isolated the cylinder like you have, and matched a new bearing to it without machining and the motor lived on forever more. so GL

Me+Turbos=Bored? NEVER... All these nights spent hawking every active turbo thread I can find on SAU lolll... Not in vain! Mr Lith, I feel your angst.... I was once an idiot on a forum based around SR20 RWDs... Hunting out CA18 bashers and preaching its good name (lol) and being the only moron on the forum with a FWD, better yet an SR20 lol. But dont worry, I am a firm believer in both FWD and CA, just as im sure you are your turbo Ohhh mannnn, Im sorry... I wouldnt say it if you didnt atleast half know me hahahaha... you know Im really only kidding. Your turbo setup is great, yet as discussed in private, I feel it wants to rev a whole lot more than it currently is with the .82 IW. Rev your motor to 9 and run a shorter final drive and I would think it was godlike. Really I only want to utilise the factory rev limit, its too costly to start playing with it for me, so a .6x based turbine housing on that size of turbo is optimal. Remember boost pressure is not relative to flow. While a .82 housing might see boost come on as early and start making good power, the .63 will have higher shaft speeds. So while the boost is similar the airflow would be exponential, which at the end of the day is pure torque. Same shit with a stock turbo, it might spool as fast or faster but, flows NOTHING in comparison. For reference, a HKS GT2835R pro S, the owner of the vid has stated its mods in the comments and its 272rwkw. Nothing about the power or speed seems outlandish to me, so its credible. Testimony to the power of that turbo. FYI, that video shows a turbo that IMO is very responsive. I am still waiting to see as definitive results from a GTRS based car, perhaps a member can 'find' some and post it up?

Not sure about the differences, but I believe the 2530 is the GTRS for the RB20 (not literally, i mean as in the GTRS is good for the RB25 how the 2530 is good for the RB20) im sure others will agree either way if u wanna send me that turbo, i guess i can find a place for it in my engine bay. i have been known to be the considerate type

lol that i did not know! post it up

WRAOWNG - Neg. 2860-7s ARE r34 N1s and 2859-9s are HKS GTSS without actuators (i believe 2859-1 are the same with the actuators attached or get -9s and use ur stock actuators) N1s are not GTSS, they are 2 different turbos. N1s are alot like stock but stronger as not ceramic, go the GTSS (-9)

lol funnily enough they are still in production those motors..... in a DOHC diesel form. Back on topic, thoughts on response of a 3076 52T .82 vs 56T .63? and any reason to believe boost control in a .63 IW would not suffer using a 52T? i have my doubts really, but thought we could brainstorm. Realistically my doubts are based on that of the 56T 3071, that has problems enough with boost control, a smaller trim yet bigger wheel would potentially flow quite similar.. Or perhaps it would just have to be tested before it could be verified as an appropriate theory.

Stao, what company makes your plain bearing CHRA? I know you can make a turbo with a garrett ballbearing CHRA but what are the plain bearing types? where are they made and by who?

Dont forget that motor flows more exhaust gas into the cooling jackets then it does out the exhaust. The last word to be put in the same sentence as "astron" or "4g54b" is efficient.

valid point