GTScotT

Yep, once you start to crack the throttle you can feel the turbo is gaining RPM much quicker than expected. If your just cruising and try to flat foot it the cars not going to LEAP forward... Its still a sizable turbo, but, with a little encouragement you feel a LOT more torque than expected at lower RPMs - and it still has the big turbo Kaboom where its meant to. Its a lot of win.

I should note I am getting closer to having my SS1PU powered S14 (SR20) on the road, and the turbo is SAVAGE. The effect of the FNT rear housing is quite obvious, and you can really tell how much difference it makes as you drive a little heavier footed. Last night I had a guy with a built LS1 powered S14 look over the car and was shocked at the delivery, he was struggling to put it to words. Stao really knows what he is doing

I think part of the issue is the constant development in his forever improving line of turbos. But I do agree.. a simple size based model code would make things a lot easier, with one to two character designation for identifying variants. ie 6074-SS for the SS2, and 6076-G3 for a ATR43-G3. That way sizes are known by the model code and we can tell if the the turbo is a cast or billet item. An advance in technology should just supersede the older model. Just my view point.

Lith stop giving me regrets! LOL it seems the 18G is obsolete, unless its completely application specific. Kane the graph looks tops Good stout power for an RB20. Keep it on the boil and that would be a very quick car. Stao should make bolt on TD05H 16G6 turbos for RB20s the same way he used the T28 housing to make his SS1PU.

LOL @ cum stains thread. Whichever poor Stagea noob opens this thread is going to lose at least 3 pages reading of their life, and it continues to grow lol. As funny as it is we should lock this now lol -_-

No worries! In the case of the 18G I have done I honestly feel that the stock position housing could be holding it back somewhat. I have no evidence to back this up though. It made roughly 210kw with ease on a Mustang dyno. I've noticed knock here and there recently so may speak to Jez about a touch up on his current dyno. You make me wish I'd gone a 16G6 on that car though

ollolol yeah, sounds almost like an NS turbo thread. Nah its got this, nah its got that! The E3-9 turbos all have the same 16G6, just reverse rotation on 4-9 (3 is conventional) as you noted. Here's an official GReddy sheet that confirms the 16G6 wheel in the T517Z: http://www.greddy.com/products/turbochargers/turbochargers-misc./filter:model:T517Z/

The motors are essentially the same but a 2WD RB20 is known to be more durable than an RB25 at reasonable power levels (<300kw). I believe that is just the difference in torque output that is pushing the RB25 closer to the limits of its make up, knowing they are produced very similarly. As for an AWD variant I am confident the oil pump issues will be more prominent like in the GTR's. I am of the opinion the attessa engagement plays a factor in how long it takes a short nose crank to destroy a pump, FWIW this is not fact and is solely my own opinion on the matter. I will know more in time as a friend has recently ventured onto the 32GTS4 w/stag NEO path. In terms of oil problems all the RB's share this.. I believe the RB26s suffer the most but am unsure exactly why, others will be able to give more detail here and if you should be concerned.

The IWG housing on your friends turbo is fine, thats fact. I have done one of those T25 based housings myself and confirm its the shiznit. Works a dream. Its this T3 housing thats a bag of shite: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD06H-25G-w-T3-8cm-V-Band-Internal-gate-/281118875035?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4173fd9d9b&_uhb=1 That housing is intended for some kind of US based car which doesnt have stellar performance from stock (so it probably works fine at low power/boost). Thats the only Kando IWG that has an issue, just to clarify. One guy even lopped the rear of it off to DIY a 5/6 bolt open outlet and it was still shite, so its probably just a dud housing for the application. The T25 one your mate is using is a copy of the MHI unit GReddy uses on their T517Z (which his turbo is an exact copy of), so it should and does work well. Re my comments that they were a lemon; I simply gave the best advice I could at the time. More than one person had reported that their surge ported T67s weren't on par, and one guy (Dori34) had issues which were potentially but unconfirmed to be related to the 3" 20g antisurge cover. Hypergear had also reported trials of similar style surge porting resulted in similar performance set backs, so I had accepted the data as reasonable at the time. As noted I am always happy to learn something new, which I do regularly when talking to you, but just didn't want to promote something I had my doubts in.

^ would love to see that sheet. Sounds good How readily does it get up and boogy? I mean not just when is full boost achieved but whats it like before its on full boost?

The MHI style housings are total dogs balls, but those 2iu style ones are probably fine. Hypergear is importing a similar housing which I'm sure comes from the same foundry. So it should work fine, depending on what size flapper Kando are installing and the balance of flow from the wheels. If you have a read of the Hypergear threads (will take you a year) it took him a while to get the balance of wheels and WG flapper right. The current standard highflow is a good thing.

OH YEAH! I forgot about the re-production 2iu housings.. I hadn't eve thought to look for that on eBay. I may speak to a friend about trying one of these, though I would prefer an L2 18G in the stock housings. Roy has explored the 20G 8cm realms but I am not confident its everyones cup of tea (on an RB25). I'm keen to see your anti-surge final results dude, am always happy to take on new data and concepts. At the moment the general consensus was that it was laggier, but that could be a different story on the smaller compressor housings or wheels (remembering yours is the 3" .60 housing with a 20G wheel and most feedback was based on the 4" .70 with 25G wheel). The one dude who did 'back to back' a 20G 3" anti-surge was not convinced the non surge cover was actually the fix. Hopefully your friends one can at least settle the debate on the 3" cover.

Oh god, I finally get it... You're female. The little girl comments on page 1 fired you up and you're here for vengeance. God save us all.

I believe it to be better value. A current model SS2 type B with IWG should cost the 1200 mark IIRC. For most people who already sport a 3" dump that saves them on the cost of an EWG, plumbing it up and fabricating a dump. Say 700 kando, 400 gate, 300 to cast weld gate to manifold, 400 for dump and screamer... I think those prices are conservative and rounded down in most cases. Not trying to product push, am just a mad stalker of both threads and hold an opinion on the matter.

You think your schooling me? New people come on and ask repetitive questions and make a mess of the forum all the time. Its to be expected. What is also to be expected is that they will get shut down and told how its meant to be. Then like OP of this thread they go away with a better understanding of how the forum works and an appreciation to the efforts people put in. If you just answer people's questions nice as pie all the time you end up with a forum like NS, and nobody learns how to actually use the forums properly. I think OP understands the context of our harsher comments in the beginning, he's not crying about it so I don't see what your problem is.

Dude your so far off the mark its not funny. Please read the thread again, particularly my comments about searching and adding to existing threads. Just look at the hypergear or kando threads, if a new one came up every week how the hell would you keep track of where all the good info is? So much will be missed or lost in the depths of the forum. You have a lot to learn, there's nothing wrong with that but you need to stop trolling if you just don't know.

If you read my posts I go into ALL that detail. At least a 3rd of that money is wasted on a tune when he decides to do more mods (as funds permit for a lot of us). Upgrade to an FMIC and TBE and the tune will be out. At that stage ur injectors will also max out and so will the AFM. A waste of money if you don't do it right the first time. OP is better off replacing the stock turbo himself for now and enjoying the car as is for a bit. By the time he can afford to do everything necessary to properly upgrade the turbo he would still be able to flog the stock turbo for roughly what it cost him. Minimal loss.

lol cars - the never ending stoooorrrryyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy

Yep. It costs 5k to upgrade a turbo on a stock car. Everybody knows you cannot get away with changing the turbo alone, so the other things must be done also. Therefore it costs 5k to do it properly. The end.

ARTZ lowmounted that turbo on a stock manifold, and one other member also did before having to sell the car (IIRC). Both members results were within reasonable difference. 14-16psi 260rwkw on 98, 300kw on E85, good response all round. I can understand the thread is 270 pages wrong but this has been talked about so many times.... Furthermore the Hypergear SS2 does not give much away in response and has significantly higher power limits. Please read both threads.

Lol @ Toyota K series. Come on daz just 4A the poor thing and put it out of its misery.

Darren just put a T28 on it and it will do well.

Boost by speed with its own speed sensor

Thats a good result Kane For years the RB20 staple was Roys 260kw, you have managed to get 238(240~) with a TD05H 18G and a standard manifold which would arguably be a punchier combo and still not giving too many killa wasps away. Plus we all know the JEM dyno is legit as they come. Awesome stuff! I bet your stoked! Come take us for a wrap if your ever in the Liverpool area.

RBs are a sad story when it comes to valve springs IMO. Do em while your on the job and guarantee yourself the results