mystery_kid

matey i don't suppose you have a stock rb20 FPR laying around?

they don't need center caps, they aren't fully sick chromies for cruising maccas

where are you located?

there is a bunch of kits for sale in the traders sections.. if you took like 2 seconds to have a look

hey mate i'll see what i can get local in the next couple of days otherwise i'll get yours

i'm guessing you're not keen to part the engine? I'm after a rb20det fuel pressure regulator

as topic says i'm after 1 x working rb20det fpr thanks

as topic says i'm after 1 x working rb20det fpr thanks

i do believe they were not designed with center caps

why would you keep him on the down-low? he's running a business should have some defi BF's turning up from in at the start of next weeki

8/6 is fine if you have some decent valving in them ie. not ISC or whatever wizbang shit is coming out of korea these days i also drive around with the front on max hard and the rear on half way and i've not had any issues with the car jumping around, but you can play with the damper adjust also getting adjustable sway bars gives you more option for mountain or track drift

don't suppose you got an rb20 fuel pressure regulator ? :\

i'm going to do an experiment this afternoon and take the vaccum hose off my fpr it should over fuel

i'm going to do an experiment this afternoon and take the vaccum hose off my fpr it should over fuel

i replaced all the coolant hose so i had the manifold off it was replaced with new genuine gaskets i didn't think of that, that would make some sense how does one check their fuel rail pressure? obviously i know to wack a pressure gauge on the end of the hose but that's not in the rail also another peice of info: when i did all the work i put it back together and had the fuel hoses on the wrong way and was trying to start the car, could this have f**ked the FPR?

yeah this wasn't a leak i don't think, i've driven off before without tightening up a clamp properly it definitely wasn't like that it's been holding boost fine it really odd though, it just wouldn't come onto boost and when it did the turbo would just suck air but the car wouldn't move haha i will check that though, but i had been over that pretty well when i couldn't get the car to start after the work i did

i did a fair bit of work recently to my car including taking the intake manifold off anyway it's all back together and running except since it's been back together it's been an absolute peice of shit to start, i have to sit there turning it over for like 5 seconds and usually on the second go of turning it over it will eventually catch on and start (hot or cold) it was doing this for a while but running fine otherwise recently though i've noticed when coming on boost it's just been hesitating a tiny but kinda just after it's on boost the car will just kinda drop that power for a bit and then it keeps going then this morning it really started having issues with coming on boost when it was a bit colder like 65 - 70º a couple of times i revved it up to boost slowly and it was like the turbo was sucking air but there wasn't anything else going on the revs kinda stopped just past 3k (i wasn't driving it hard but as soon as it got close to coming on boost it did this) after the car warmed up it got a bit better but there is still a definite lack of power just after coming on boost thanks

he said it's going to be a drift car... he doesn't care about driving his gf to the shopping center and i was also the first one in this thread to mention sway bars.. there is a bit too much throught going into this especially for primarily a track drift car imo you want hard suspension basically.

yer i suppose depends if he's leaning towards more track than mountain if it's just going to mostly be a track car you'd pretty much just go for as hard as you can get

just fyi none of those coilovers have camber adjustment as it is seperate arm on r32 skylines as oppose to dirty s13's definitely wouldn't go the super streets the spring rates on them are pretty soft for a primarily drift car probably would say the same about tien flex's my greddy type s have 8kg front/6kg rear spring rates and they are just bearable on the streets so if it's purely a drift car/mountain runs try and get something like that or higher spring rates again and also get aftermarket sway bars they will be your best friend for drifting

i am in the process of getting some rims and track tyres together, my car is my daily so i need some other rims and tyres so i'm not ripping up my daily tyres going with ku36's they are just so damn cheap for a semi slick, if you went through 2 sets in a year it would still be cheaper than 1 set of most other semi's incidentally how much are 595RS-R's? i haven't really considered them though i'm going to be using r32 gtr rims as my track rims so 16's will be cheaper in general

lolz

i'll take that intercooler of your hands if you pay me $80

hey mate i'm not sure how much it is to freight a set of rims interstate but i'll buy these asap if you want to get a quote from aus post or something to 4034 brisbane

fully sik bro