mystery_kid

yeah where are you located? I'm after the speaker grill from the front door (i'm assuming it's the same as the 2 door one and also the window operating switch for the passenger side.. Also assuming the left door trim is f**ked other wise

keen if things don't work out

hahaha you're so cut you're putting words in my mouth never said i had the best setup here at all telling it how it is though you ok bro?

so let me get this straight you took off the turbo and put a set of extractors on?

yes

really? i'm not going to straight out call bullshit, but i have my suspicions.. not all roads have a large enough crossfall to warrant jacking every car up on the right hand side

lol well obviously a race tyre isn't going to last long try some Bridgestone Potenza RE001's they are what i have now and they are great

Just different weight distribution matey, Only way to get it perfect is with adjustable suspension and corner scales. It's not that bigger deal anyway and not noticable. What do you think happens when you get in the car?

greddy type s Not much you can say about my coilovers that will change the fact hsd/g4/d2 aren't great the valving in them is shit.

i just see so many of these thread 'i want the biz, but only have $100 to spend' if you don't have money to spend then a skyline isn't the car for you sorry for ragging on the hsd/g4/D2 crew, guess i like to do things properly

highly unlikely you'll find a new one anywhere except nissan itself

nah plugs are fine i've just been made aware that the fuel lines are on the wrong way lolz fuel out goes through the fpr not the other way around. I'll get onto it tomorrow morning

The main fuse looks fine as far as i can see, just like the others. The filament still looks connected.

really need some help on this so i will post this link here to the original post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/El...ue-t302085.html ta

ok so start of this week i set out to replace all the coolant hoses below and into the intake manifold i've done that relatively issue free finished putting it back together today i go to kick it over and it won't start. the starter goes but that's about it this is what i have done so far: checked there is fuel pressure (which i hilariously copped in the face) checked all the vaccum hoses etc used new genuine gaskets for both parts of the intake manifold been over everything with a multi-meter - everything has power; spark plugs, fuel injectors, ignitor box, afm checked spark plugs - ok (changed them not that long ago) checked all fuses i did manage to short out on the starter motor when i was doing up the bolts under the plenum (should had d/c'ed the battery, i know) so i thought maybe the ecu is fooked, luckily enough i have a spare one from an old project i was going to undertake i plugged it in and it's the same i tried just starting without any ecu and it's exactly the same as trying to start it with an ecu, starter turns over but there is just no combustion.. even have a video of me trying to kick it over: any help would be awesome thanks

yep, half the reason i read these forums is to rag on the 'has to be cheap' crew you can't have your cake and eat it, these HSD coilovers and what not people are talking about are shit and will not give you any ride comfort. why you're so worried about ride comfort in a sports car i don't understand. but steer clear of those cheap chinese/korean copies.

super streets are 6/4 or something around there 5/4 maybe My greddy type s are 8/6. It really is all about the quality of valving that will decide how they go on the road, cheap shit chinese copies (g4, d2 etc) are bad and even with lower spring rates will be bad. My greddy's on the softest setting are quite nice on the road but obviously you lose some handling. But you can wind it up when you need it.

amazes me that people are willing to be so cheap with the only bit that is connecting your car and the road Enjoy

less width = less grip pretty simple i ror at the local cheapy 17 x 7's people put on skylines and what not. they look shit and usually have shit tyres

ask yourself if you care about how stiff the ride is too, if you're so soft cock that you'll be enbarrassed to take passengers in your car then coilovers might not be for you. That said not all coilovers are ridiculous. I personally have greddy type s in my 32 and it handles great and is a bit stiff but i wouldn't change it for the world. Just need sway bars next.

how did ringing a tyre shop not enter your mind between realising you need new tyres and clicking on new thread on this forum?

they are all connected if one dealership doesn't have parts it will get them in from the closest place, which quite often is melbourne which means they will be there the next day if they have to come from japan it takes like 10 days though mine came in 1 week no matter what dealership you ring, they can get you any part you want i don't understand why you didn't pick the phone up first

you own an r32 gtr, since when do you care about what is adr approved? What is the likely hood you're going to get run over the pits and in trouble for something likely that? It's not like it's something obvious straight under the bonnet like a pod filter..

yeah it's so hard to tell without getting balls deep and virtually doing it twice

yeah that actually sounds more likely than a cracked injector.. are the seals on the bottom that go between the head and injector the same size as the top ones? i just ordered 6 for the bottom from nissan and he said there is a O ring for the bottom and 'resistor' or something to that tune for the top and bottom of the injector or something didn't say anything about an O ring on top