mystery_kid

Hi one of my fuel injectors is leaking it looks like it's coming from around top of it, it's only a very small leak looks damp around the injector obviously my first guess is to replace the injector... is there anything else it could/would be to do with the fuel rail or anything? Thanks

yeah i'm looking to gradually replace all the bushes, doing as many i can myself thought the looked like a good place to start

thanks mate it seems you're the only person on this forum that has had an issue

haha sounds like a bit of sooking here happens with decent pads sometimes... might be shims might not be if you care more about the sound than having good brakes go back to your normal street spec pads

how does one tell if their ball joints aren't in good shape? the boots on mine are pretty shagged from an external look at them also is it possible to get them new be it aftermarket or whatever, apart form nissan. i swear i've seen them offered on a website somewhere at some stage but for the life of me can't find it again Thanks

pretty sure if you put 215 rubber on it it should be ok r33 gtr rims fit on the front of an r32 gts-t with no spacers and 215 rubber though they are +30 but i doubt it's <5mm away from the suspension

why don't you just get more r33 rims? everyone is trying to offload them because they look so horrible but they are good to have a pair of as spares if something happens, beats driving around on a space saver for any longer than you have to

Hi i'm chasing up the part number for the brake cylinder in my car i've taken a pic of the end of the cylinder where the part number is, but it doens't seem to conform to any other number i've foun looks like it's 10F00U1 or something obviously with 46010 before it can someone set me straight on this before i pass this number on to others to look for the part here is a pic: http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/3343/dsc01418r.jpg Thanks

i just rang nissan here in brisbane they want $460 for a R32 new brake master cylinder and around $190 for a rebuild kit i'm a bit weary of the rebuild kit though, i really can't be f**ked pulling it apart once to see if it has scoring along the barrel then trying to put it back together so i can drive my car in the 10 days i need to wait for either one depending on the condition of the barrel to come from Japan

care to elaborate on that nisskid? being ripped on the new price or the rebuild price?

they don't serve that bigger purpose on the skylines anyway due to the way the suspension is setup, compared to silvia's etc that rely on the top of the strut more so no, he won't see alot if any difference driving if it's rubbing on stuff etc then get a new one, i was considering getting a JJ front one but if they rub on stuff i might look elsewhere the rear ones are pretty much completely useless in skylines

yeah that's pretty full on this is just a fibreglass front bar apart from the bits that have been fibreglassed the rest of it is in perfect condition, it had some repairs and resprayed not that long ago :\ i don't think it requires me to sand back and spray and sand back etc and i'm not painting it as it's a custom pearl colour that i don't want to f**k up

you do realise you will probably see no difference at all when you're actually driving the car?

my front bar has had the fibreglass work done to it which i didn't do it's mostly painted still with full clear coat with a couple of parts of unsanded fibreglass where it's been repaired basically there is a little bit of bogging to do then the whole thing has to be sanded for painting i'm going to do the bogging and sanding myself my question is, what grit sand paper should i be using to get it pretty spot on for a panel beater to paint? Thanks

Anyone in brissy got a rb20det afm that's in good working order they want sell? Can pick up tomorrow (20/9) cheers

So my car has been having idling issues and i pulled the idle air control valve apart it wasn't dirty or anything that i could see, but i did notice the the black disk that swings around to open the hole up to let air in is sitting on an angle so technically it wouldn't be closed completely etc i was wondering if this was what it's meant to be like or if the disk bit is meant to sit flush thanks ps. after mucking around with it, it's fixed my stalling problem at idle but the revs still drop sometimes past normal

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a couple of days ago in the morning after driving all the way to work, i'm sitting at the lights just before my carpark and the car just stalls, it's not done this before later in the day i drove and it did the same thing but started doing it earlier after starting to drive it will idle fine for a while after starting the car and driving around then i'll stop at lights after it being fine and it drops to idle then i will just begin to die, sometimes the revs will bounce up and down and it eventually stalls other times it just stalls pretty much gets worse as i drive one thing i've noticed i can drive for half an hour or more in the morning to work and it idles 100% fine, and will do it once i get to my carpark or just before

yeah not so sure about IACV it seems heat related which is making me lean towards the AFM, both days now i've been able to drive to work 100% perfectly until i get there then it does it then driving the car during the day in the heat it doesn't last long before it starts doing it

Hey so today my car just randomly started stalling at idle happened once in the morning near work, waiting at lights it just stalled, it's never done this before later in the day i went for a drive out to a job site and it's gotten a bit more frequent. it will idle then drop down then bounce back up drop down, bounce back up and usually stall doesn't happen all the time, but it's getting more frequent my first thought is vacuum leak, i just replaced the clamp around the hose that goes into the IAC valve because it was pretty lose but that hasn't stopped it last time i had a vacuum leak it would always happen, every time it would go to idle it would drop down then idle high etc, but didn't stall anyone got any ideas? ps. i just replaced the exhaust manifold gasket less than 2 weeks ago, if this helps any pps. the car when it's cold will stutter and idle bounce after i've driven it for a little bit down the road and then stop, it's stuggles to idle but a tap of the accelerator and it is fine

i personally think it has to do with the master cylinder/that area it's not to do with calipers/pads etc

i've spotted TRB26 a while back a couple of mornings in a row on gympie road around kedron and lutwyche i'm in the black 32 with no front bar

i want my beer now :\ yeah my issue wasn't broken studs, it was just not done properly last time to sum it all up non-genuine gasket, tightened up too tightly so it just began to shear the threads off when i first noticed it was making the ticking sound i found where it was coming from on cylinder 1 and the top nut there was finger loose. when i finally got around to fixing it properly 3 other nuts on that end were all finger loose. thanks for the tips

adis that was my plan originally, i'd bought studs but nissan they gave me the wrong ones apparently they gave me studs for the turbo -> manifold, which i didn't realise until the day which is mostly my fault as i asked for exhaust manifold studs meaning head studs, but at the same time the guy was like 'do you want a full set of 12?' not that it would have mattered anyway, threads were already pretty f**ked before i even got to it anyway got a guy coming out next week, $180 to helicoil all 12 of them and he's organising some new studs + nuts

Just wondering if anyone can recommend me a mobile thread repair dude in brisbane pretty much every exhaust stud has shear on me, need the threads helicoiled i've looked on google/yellow pages and i can't find much at all in brisbane, plenty in nsw though i think i was searching for the wrong thing on yellowpages or something thanks