kitto

Factory head gasket and studs are good for that power and boost level and more! NEO only needs bolt on parts for that power.

No sorry.

Any answer to this??

Tomei or Nitto, i'm not sure if Nitto has released their new Spline drive pump or not yet, if they have, get one of those! The most important thing to make sure you do is fit a crank collar that gives the correct collar to pump drive flat clearance. I have a Nitto pump and collar on my engine, i came to that decision after months of research. If i were to do it all again for a track oriented vehicle it would be an external belt driven pump, either wet or dry sump.

Bump

Not really. 13.8 Volts is the nominal voltage of a battery. 6 cells, 2.2V per Cell = 13.8V With the engine running @ 2,000RPM and a healthy alternator, at the alternators output, you should see around the 14.0 - 14.2V mark. At the fuel pump, Anything less than 12.5V isn't ideal at all. You want to have it around the 13.8V mark if you can. Cable size plays a big part in this. If you have factory wiring to the pump, change it out for something with a substantial cross sectional area to support the current and minimize voltage drop. You dont want a car's electrical system too much above 14V, a lot of the electrics won't like it.

Spal. They come with the Setrab cooler.

I'll be doing this yes. Earls one way -10 check valve. The one way valve that Canton sells restricts too much flow. But post oil cooler, just before the inlet into the engine.

Yeah thats it. Anyone of those accusumps, the electric solenoid valve and that ball valve will do to reduce flow. This is mine installed in the boot of my R31 under the parcel shelf.

Before first start up the oil is dumped from the accusump into the cold engine for pre start lubrication. This is normal. When the engine is running the accusump is charging and discharging as oil pressure rises and falls. Oil doesnt just sit in the accusump doing nothing. So the oil doesnt get a chance to sit in the accusump long enough to cool down.

What condition is the AAC valve block in? Got a picture?

Err, so you pulled it all apart and you didn't replace the bearings that would have cost $150 if that??

From what a few people and I worked out, you won't need the EPC valve. What you'll want; Accusump with the electric solenoid valve which is switched on with the ignition on (with an override off switch as well). Some type of ball valve between the solenoid valve and the engine - to regulate flow Basically the accusump is open to the engine full time, it discharges and charges as needed, the ball valve is to regulate how much oil is fed to and from the accusump. People found the accusump with no ball valve was dumping way too much oil too quickly when a drop in pressure was found and when the accusump was re-filling, the pump was struggling to feed to accusump and the enigne. This was worked out using oil pressure vs RPM data logging. I'll be doing the same once i'm ready. Before the accusump the amount of surge the engine saw was stupid (factory sump, was overfilled slightly i believe) and surged quite badly around some corners. Once the accusump was set up like above there have been no surge issues that i'm aware of. The car i'm referring to is Simon's S14.

Yes thats correct. But what height is each line at on the tank?

There are 4x hoses that connect to the surge tank. All should be at different heights. But some tank are different. Eg theres two ways to dot it. From top to bottom; 1. - Return to main tank - Return from fuel rail - Feed from main tank lift pump - Feed to main pressure pump(s) 2. - Return from fuel rail - Return to main tank - Feed from main tank lift pump - Feed to main pressure pump(s) Which way is yours done? The 1st option heats the fuel as the surge tank has to be pressurised to return fuel to the main tank. The main pressure pump and the lift pump have to work harder to fully fill the surge tank allowing fuel to flow out of the top fitting back to the main tank. You want a small air gap at the top of the surge tank with the return line back to the main tank jn between the return from the rail and the lift pump inlet. If that makes sense?

How is the tank plumbed from top to bottom?

My reason for putting the temp sensor post fuel reg, in between the fuel cooler is this should theoretically be the hottest part of the fuel system?

This was what i was thinking as well. Too much and yes you'll crack a rotor easily. Yeah ok, so the ECU monitors brake rotor temp and once over a set point, it enables water sprayers (in a duty cycle arrangement i assume?)

Something very wrong here indeed.

What about water cooling setups? Water that is squirted into the core of the rotor.. I remember seeing a kit for the R35 but i havn't heard much about them? I believe V8 supercars have this method as well. But when do the activate? Is it in a a preset duty cycle, or they only come on when brakes are applied etc? I know ducting is easier, but having a huge oil cooler on one side and a power steering cooler on the other doesn't give a lot of room to get fresh air into the brake rotors.

Ahh ok cool, the same way i've done it then. Is this the 'best' location for it? Have any of you guys got a temp sensor in your fuel system somewhere? If so, where? I'm putting one in mine, my idea was to have it in the return line just before the fuel cooler.

Solid or hydraulic lifters? Hydraulic lifters will tick for ages until oil is forced into them.

If you had done it on a dynapack i would have loved to have seen your back to back torque figures.

NEOs have an N1 pump standard with 2x 1.25mm restrictors factory. Youll be fine with 2x 1.2mm restrictors.

In what part of the fuel system is the fuel cooler situated?